northguy

I just run Penziol and change it every 3k religiously.

You play, you pay. Doesn't sound too bad. I once drove (by accident) into the median here(in AK) in winter and once in hit 4wd on the fly, hammered down and drove the mediam for a quarter mile before muscling out on the road again, and I never lost my place in traffic.

Buy a good set of ski goggles and stick your head out of the window while driving.

If it's Fairbanks, say NO. No way.

My cousins Vito and Guido are available to take a road trip if you need a favor, Paul.

Too far away? I flew to Portland and drive mine back up the Alcan - 2,400 miles. No where is too far to drive for a good Brat.

Those look sharp, and it's good to know you're feeding a board member instead of SOA.

Got the name of the town you're looking at? And the name of the company she'd be working for? The politics here are crazy and some weird things may happen soon. Could give you some insight.

If you're going to visit, don't come in the summer. You'll fall in love wih the place and not even consider the winter. If you come in the winter, come prepared to enjoy the out-of-doors. If you don't enjoy winter sports (skiing, sledding, snowmobiling, x/c skiing, icefishing, hunting, trapping, snowshoing, dogsledding,...) winter is an unbearable time.

Brian, keep going. We love to hear ideas like that as it keeps out the riff-raff and tourists. Bard, PM me and I'll go into specifics with you about opportunities and standard of living. There are a ton of old subbies, but they are all (almost) rusty. Nevertheless, there are a bunch of them and more places to off-raod than anywhere else in America.

A bit more description on what is prohibiting the shift would be helpful. Is it a resistance to go in caused by a bind in the shifting forks? Is the linkage loose and sloppy? Some moredetail would be helpful.

Maybe a loose belt?

P.K. Are you coming out with 4"lifts for Legacies soon?

On my trip up the Alcan, I kept my 83 Brat at a constant 55 mph. Time stunk, but I loved the 30+mpg I got through Canada. Around here, the 65+mph drops it down to mid to low 20's. FWIW.

SCORE!

Hey, it looks better than anything I could put together. I'm artistically retarded (oops, make that challenged).

Is it more like a horseshoe which curves to the outside at the ends? If so, it is as Soup says - the retainer clip for the windor crank. See if the handle pulls off.

The good doctor is certainly a font of knowledge. Hat's off Dr.

someone should compile the key ideas in this and do a write up on exhaust modifications and put it in archives. Miles are you up for this? You seem to do a pretty good job with these things.

Congratulations.

That is sswwweeeeeettt.

Glad you made it O.K., but I beg to differ with you on the traffic issue. We have a mini-Indy 500 everyday with the 50,000+ commuters who drive to Anchorage daily. It's more likely that we are geared up for the conditions and "most" drivers here learn to slow down in bad weather. It's usually the drivers with a southern accent who end up in the ditch. Not picking on any regional peoples, just pointing out that if you spend a lot of time driving in snow and ice, you learn that it is more time efficient to drive slowly than to wait for a wrecker in the ditch.

It's like GD says:location is everything. In AK, any 4wd is worth at least $1500 if it runs decent. If the rust isn't too bad dicker with the person and get it down to around a grand. With mileage that low, it's a decent deal.

Ok. What you have is a rigid chrome insert. This is good news. Stay with me here. Removal - 1. lower right corner is missing corner trim. Start there. With a cotter key puller (hook tool) or some pointed (blintly) tool, lift the top lip of the chrome up until it pullsout of the interlocking rubber. Slide the tool all along the bottom of the gasket. pull the trim out. Pell the corner trim out on the corner. Repeat this all of the way around, taking care not to kink the trim. 2. The gasket should be urethaned to the glass on all three surfaces. To remove the urethane, I make a special tool that makes it easy (get a windshield removal knife blade that has been broken and heat it up and bend it with a 1/4" lip on it. Bolt it to a piece of flattened conduit. bend the conduit to make a handle. Use your hook tool to create a void between the glass and the gasket or get a plastic stick from a glass shop - you'll need acouple of these anyway - slide the blade in until the lip drops over the edge of the glass. Pull the blade around the perimeter of the glass and you've cut 2/3 's of the urethane.) If you can't make the tool, carefully use a utility knife or a fillet knife to cut the urethane away from the glass. Then, using the flat plastic sticks, pry the rubber up and cut alongthe side of the glass the free op the sides. 3. Next, carefully cut the urethane on the inside from the glass and the gasket. A fillet knife works well here with some gentle pressure pushing out on the shield. 4. Now comes the fun part. One person inside/one outside. Inside, sit in the seat and put your feet on the shield. Push out slowly and evenly. Pushing too hardwill result in you catapulting the shield straight onto the hood. Outside, grab the shield on the way out. Wear safety glasses in case of glass flakes. clean up 1. The entire channel in the gasket MUST be free of old urethane and glass chips. Any debris left in there can and probably will result in breakage on installation. Use the plastic sticks to scrape out any debris. Wear gloves for all of this incase there are any glass chips. 2. Spray the gasket down with glass cleaner and wipe off. 3. Turn on ignition switch and set defrosters on high for a couple of minutes. Blow out any debris that may have gone in there. 4. While the shield is out, Armorall the dash and side posts. Inspect the gasket to make sure it is on the pinchweld. Look at the inside of the gasket, especially the top. See if there are two lips on the top. If so. roll the top of the gasket and about the first two inches of the sides off of the inside lip to ease installation. If not, make sure the gasket is firmly over the pinchweld. * note. The external edge of the gasket should be urethaned to the body. This aids in the structural integrity of the vehiclein the event of roll over and helps in avoiding leaks. installation 1. Again, inspect the groove in the gasket to make sure it is free of all debris. 2. liberally apply silicone lubricant on the external lip od the gasket around the entire perimeter. 3. slide the bottom edge of the shield into the groove in the bottom of the gasket and push the shield to your partner on the other side of the car. He/she should use a plastic stick to lift the side gasket up to allow theshield to start to eat in the side. Your bottom corner can be set in by keeping the corner about an inch up on the side and tucking the corner in the side gasket and then sliding it down into place. Use plastic slicks to free up any snags. 4. Use your plastic sticks to pry up the gasket away from the glass along the side, working the shield evenly as you go up. A couple of soft flet-hand slaps will help seat the shield as you go along. Do not pry against theedge of the glass. 5. The top corners will be the worst part. Sometimes it is easier to work the top lip from the middle to the corners. You can push the gasket up over the glass withthe plastic stick from the inside to get it started. Work the lip up over the glass until the shield is completely in and seated. 6. Trim. Put the bottom lip in first and use either your hook tool or plastic stick to pull the top lip over the trim. You can also get one side of the trim started on one side and feed it in, pushing it to the other and then deal with the two lips on the gasket the last few inches. Use plenty of silicone spray for this, taking care not to kink the chrome. 7. If you did have the double lip on the top, pull the gasket inover the pinchweld inside before you reinstall the trim. 8. Clean up and go drink a beer.

I'm looking at your signature. Does your gasket have some chrome trim on it? If so, is it rigid chrome, or is it an insert bead? The latter of the two indicates an easier, but technically more difficult process. Let me know which type you have and I can make a better analysis.