NoahDL88

Pull your spark plugs, if one looks steam cleaned that is your offending cylinder!

My best build was SPFI pistons, a Delta grind cam, decked the heads, re-curved the Disty. That engine is somewhere in Yakima if I recall correctly, don't know if it ever got running right, but if it did, it should have put out maybe 100 at the crank? It was an interesting experiment at least.

Ram Engines Here is your power with an EA-81!

I'm so confused I had to log in. I hate logging in. It sounds to me that you are happy with the EA-81, and don't want/need the power of an EJ? But wait, you want performance? I'll address the issue with EA-81 and performance. The intake is long and narrow, which means it's set up for low end torque. Being on the suction side, the 1.25 inch diameter limits your flow, a lot. I flowed the heads and intake on a bench air flow tester and you're not going to get more than 125 horsepower from that intake, and that comes with bumping duration and lift on the cam substantially. That is assuming that you have fuel injection, because even with the Weber carb you're not going to get a consistent mixture from the bottom to your new required red-line to get the HP gains you seek. Now that you've added fuel injection and a new intake with runners for both cylinders, you'll need an exhaust tuned to the additional airflow, it might be best at this point to get dual runner exhaust as well. The most reliable way to go about this is to get in contact with someone in the Experimental Aircraft Association, and have them put you into contact with an engine builder, but an FAA spec engine will be about 15-20K, I'm assuming that if you do not require FAA licensing you can get away with about a 10K price tag as they won't have to blueprint everything. Or, you can go with the engine that has all these things on it, get a 200 dollar adapter plate, meet up with some fun Subie nuts and work out a wiring harness over some beers, soda or milk and have your brat running with the same reliability, twice the performance and better fuel economy to boot for less than 1500 bucks. That's why everyone recommends the EJ swap, if you're happy with ~68 horsepower stick with the EA-81, it's a great engine, but it was never designed to be, will never be, and can't ever be a high performance engine.

Snow tires will get you a little bit more tread, but there isn't much you can do with 13's

Newer subies, of the EJ flavor are 32mm

Is the brake off?

That's some fine looking welding! TIG?

Nice painting, I wish I had your brushes! It's not the camera.

IN!

I've had a new thermostat fail out of the box, also EA-82 Make sure you have enough fluid in there, and feel around on the hoses for sudden changes from hot to cold.

If you're handy at all with a soldering pen that's an easy fix, could probably just use solder to bridge the gap, but a short piece of wire is probably a better idea. Where are you located, maybe someone around you could help.

Legally you really have no leg to stand on, as verbal agreements are hard to prove. As far as his word, yes, he should honor your verbal agreement, but in the end do you really want to buy a car from a guy like this? Give your money to someone else, a deal isn't done until cash and title change hands.

Dang Scott, that is really rockin gives the wheel a military/industrial look

Twist my arm, I could be in! Sunday works better for me

What little time I could stay was well worth it. The only reason I didn't stay was the whole AWOL thing. It was definately shaping up to be one of the best WCSS's when I left Friday night. Kudo's to all the volunteers that work so hard to put these on. For those that don't know this is really a second, unpaid job for a lot of the folks that plan this event. I'll try to get the pics from the camera uploaded. Have we started a dedicated photo thread?

These wheels are hub centric, so it will effect balance, but if it feels fine I wouldn't worry about it.

I believe it's mostly necessary to heat the intake to prevent carb icing, but if you're going to fab up custom carbs to it I can't imagine it's too much harder to keep the crossover, It won't hurt anything to keep it.

The bottom of the intake does have a coolant passage, so you're going to have to work around that. Just a heads up.

Up at the top of the page is a search drop down menu. Also, in the offroad subforum there is a thread at the top called the offroad FAQ, that will answer all your questions. Welcome Aboard.

"Water/Meth is a crutch used when the system wasn't designed correctly in the first place." Corky Bell

You can go fast, reliable and cheap, pick two. Unless you want to spend real money, a tune-up will net you more power and MPG then anything else you can do for your engine. You have to pay to play. Period, end of story, full stop. If you want to go faster make your car lighter and clean it out, bump up the psi a couple of pounds in your tires and make sure all your fluids are clean and at the appropriate level. If you want to actually go faster you will have to spend actual money, a set of cams and an exhaust will be the best bang for your buck. Bottom line, you will never be as fast and reliable as a WRX, if you want speed and reliability get one, and in the long run it will probably be cheaper. If you don't have the money for a well engineered and designed turbo don't give up reliability for cheap parts, or you'll be spending a great deal more on getting your car running again purchasing stock parts. This forum is littered with threads like this, please search through them, you'll see that there is little to be done with no money or time.

Shoot, If I was closer I'd swing by just to hang out.

I know you're pissed off but calling your girlfriend an idiot an using Asian as a negative was as far as I needed to read. Maybe you should let her know how you feel so she doesn't have to deal with an @sshole boyfriend anymore. As far as the car goes, should be the same as the girlfriend, move on, you'll both be better for it.

NO NO NO NO NO NO Bad idea, danger will robinson. I mean, unless you want to break your tools or shear your crank pulley. Loctite will also help keep it from moving.