NoahDL88

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32884&highlight=dl+gl+differences http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28773&highlight=dl+gl+differences Its been talked about before in more detail, those threads should answer your questions as far as standing for anything, i believe that the common belief is that GL stands for Gots lots, and DL stands for Didn't Leave S**T but an AM radio

make sure to take it to a shop and have them remove the air in the system, it will never perform to your expectations if you just put in the refrigerant without taking out the air in the lines.

But is the wrist pin diameter and height the same?

N/A and turbo cams are two completely different animals, what works good on an N/A: overlap and lots of timing won't work on a turbo, cause the turbo will push all that incoming air out into the exhaust with much overlap. Delta should know what to do.

OBD2 or "On Board Diagnostics" 2nd generation is the self diagnostic part of your PCM, or powertrain control module. When the car is working correctly you will not have a check engine light. when you get a check engine light it is because you are out of emissions specs, or you have somthing seriously wrong with your car ie no oil pressure. when an OBDII car is running correctly and your check engine light is not on, you will pass emissions. OBD is designed so that if you do make failing emissions it will throw a code and kick on the light. To pass an emissions test you need to be able to communicate with the computer so that the computer can give the scanner the all clear. there are two types of codes, ones that are in the recent memory, and ones that are long term, both can be erased by taking off the battery for 15 minutes, but that will throw a new code, which can only go away after you have driven the car for about 100 miles, which theoreticaly is far enough to have any codes come back on that you may have tried to erase for passing emissions purposes. so in effect, you won't pass emissions if you just disconected your battery recently.

Thanks

No dice, i gotta work (emergency), have a good time.

I've been trying to figure that one out for about 3 years, if i figure it out i'll let you know

I'm looking at a 96 OBS, but its an auto, has anyone done the conversion to a manual? don't really feel good about a slushbox, but I can't beat the price.

replace whatever is causing the leak, or you'll be doing it again soon. and make sure to replace the idler pully, not so much fun changing those in montana, half way between michigan and seattle

Touche that wheel/tire combo sure sounds nice

Good call turbone, but as far as the drivetrain, tranny and rear diff, the bigger tires should not be a problem, i would check on the ABS though.

The calipers were obvious, but thats currently one vote for backing plates, and one vote against.

So bringing the "water wagon" to a stop from 90 is about as fun as a can of bees, so i'm hopeing to do the vented rotor and caliper swap. 1. has anyone done this 2. What parts are needed? I know caliper and rotor, but do i need the backingplate? Knuckle? 3. Are the master cylinder's the same? 4. If you have done this, and know what parts are needed and are going to be at the WCSS7 and want to bring parts let me know the price.

i got the radiator replaced on the water wagon so she should be good for the trip. miles you got the good directions from DeTroit

from GL to DL you will have to swap the entire transmission, The "T-case" is near the rear of the tranny, but the "low range" is near the front.

what is your skill level? I wouldn't hesitate doing the swap on a car that i needed for work tomorrow, but my dad couldn't do it to save his life. If you can pull the motor in an hour, or change a front axle in 30 minutes you should have the skill to do the swap.

Not true, the pre 1990 LSD's were clutch type.

At the top of the off road page there is a "read me" read it an all your questions will be answered.

Keep the Imp, its much more reliable and you'll want the creature comforts in MN winters. On the other hand "austin's temporary storage" AKA "noah's driveway" could use an imp.

factory spec is .039-.043 BTW, you can re-gap your plugs

According to the FSM a G55 dosn't exist, but a G55 would translate into a G 3-door 5 EA-82 4wd 5 GL-10 Turbo The second G is Full time 4wd MT IIRC they don't make a GL-10 coupe, but i could be wrong, i think your G55 should be G56. just my .02

That is the beauty of soobs, (not needing a whole bunch of power to be fun) but quite often we get 16 and 17 year olds, we were all there once, asking how to get their car to handle better and turn 12's for about 50 bucks, a shoe string and a half used pack of bubble gum. all i can say is that you'll need about 2 feet of bailing wire and a torqued up discriminator valve to turn that kind of power cheap. Welcome to the board, and consider yourself lucky, the RX is a lot of guys, and gals, dream subie.

If the 86 is SPFI it should be very easy, if its not everything but the intake manifold will swap over.

Your other car probably came with more than 115 horsepower from the factory too.