NoahDL88

The frame travels down not the axle, although you are right, unless he moves the axle up further he'll have some wicked clanging when the axle and frame hit.

Where do you find these cars?

I can't tell you how many times I'd recommend a brake job at the Ford dealer I used to work at and have the customer go to les schwab or some other cut rate repair shop only to come back with a 600 dollar repair bill for calipers rotors and pads and of course a brake wobble. Why replace OEM quality components with dubious quality aftermarket/re manufactured components that your car didn't need in the first place. les schuwab makes their money by up-selling you rotors and calipers on every brake job, 99% of brake jobs don't need calipers and a good 75% won't need anything more than a set of pads and a recut on the rotors. When it comes to brake rotors, unless you are getting the Napa golds I would stick with OEM parts, they really are a cut above the rest, both pads and rotors. les schwab is great for tires, but I wouldn't trust them with my brakes. BTW, our brake job, consisting of a rotor re-turn and a set of pads cost 185-200, and kept OEM parts for OEM feel and quality. Sorry, I side tracked, but I'll echo what GD said, either you or someone else in the car drags their left foot on the brake pedal, or you need to find an honest mechanic.

I've in the past purchased o engines from CCR. One was a custom EA-81 that I had a few problems with, but I cannot blame CCR as with a custom engine drivability is a sum of it's parts, and the parts I chose did not work together as well as I was hoping. The rear main puking oil however was not so great, and replacing it with another did not fix the problem. CCR should have mic'd the crank and determined if the rear was too worn down or if it was just a ridge if it needed to be cleaned up. The second engine I purchased was a 2.2, It burned through oil at a prodigious rate, and I called to confirm that it was just break in and Emily confirmed that it would go away after about 3000 miles. After 10,000 miles it was burning more than it had at break in. They would have warrantied the engine, so I can't fault them for that, but it was none the less very frustrating, and I ended up selling the car as I didn't want to deal with it anymore. I don't know how many engines they sell every year, but they do seem to do well, which would indicate that they have more happy customers than unhappy ones, and like Qman said 2 years ago, only those that had bad experiences will comment, those that had good experiences won't bother. I do like supporting a mom and pop operation that caters to our hobby, but I don't know if I would buy another engine from them, I won't say I wouldn't but the price of a JDM engine and installing it myself makes for an easy choice.

small "offroad" tires are hard to find as most normal people who offroad in the US don't really use anything smaller than 32+ inch tires. On top of that retreads are not terribly popular with anyone besides over the road long haul truckers. So, to get a company to either make or re-skin small offroad oriented DOT legal tires is not so profitable.

As they said it was specifically to show that it was FWD, there was probably a third wheel in the back to hold up the rear, as the tongue weight of that boat was probably higher than the actual overall towing capacity of that poor little car.

After swapping out the intakes, you should have a very easy job sealing what is left of the EGR system on the "new" engine. Common practice is to cut the metal EGR tube, hammer it flat, fold and flatten once more and if you really want to go crazy you can seal it with some JB weld, but that is probably overkill. There are other ways to do it to be sure, there might even be a plug on your old engine that fits the threads of the tube on the new one. Its been a while since I've been into an EJ22, they seem to last forever if you keep oil in them.

There is a write up on the offroad section that tries to explain what fits and what doesn't. The problem is that there are so many different variations on tires, lifts, and chassis that it is hard to say X will fit on a Y If you are worried about rubbing go smaller than you'd think, the main issue will be the back of the front wheel well and where it will hit the frame when you turn the tires to full lock. A little bit of hammer here or there isn't bad, you can go over it with some primer and sealant and it will be just fine. I'm pretty sure your 27's won't fit though.

Shipping from any country that uses Pounds and not dollars, plus the conversion rate makes that a bad deal. On top of the fact that they are probably not DOT legal. But those tires are

Does the fuel pump whine when you cycle the key at start up? could be a whole host of things. Check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail while someone else cranks the engine over use a stethoscope to listen to hear if the injectors are clicking If the cam and crank sensors aren't working they will not fire the injectors, so a double check of the connectors can't hurt either.

Either heat shields or left over bits of cat, a friend's car had the entire cat disintegrate and we spent hours trying to figure out the source with a stethoscope, and were thrilled when we found out it wasn't the bottom end of the engine that was the source of the rattle.

If you keep them charged they last for a very long time, if they spend any time discharged they don't like it and will likely only ever have a surface charge and not actually take or hold a charge for very long.

can I come to your home and just sit in front of the tires and oogle them?

If its in the car, use a small vacuum line to suck in some seafoam, slowly, should take between 8-15 minutes to suck in the whole bottle. Out of the car, soak em in carb cleaner and use an aluminum or brass brush.

There is probably a sensor at the far end of the travel of the seatbelt motor rail that is either dirty, broken or knocked out, give it a check and that may fix it. If you do install a new seatbelt make sure you torque the bolts well and use loctite, a loose bolt with greatly reduce overall total strength of the restraint system.

Living in Bremerton now and having lived within an hour or so of Benton-Harlem, I'd say if it wasn't for family don't do it. Family is a great reason and all, but the economy turn has hit that area pretty badly, and it wasn't all that good to begin with. There are no mountains and the amount of Subaru's around there is pretty low

There is a lot of research you should do before you jump into a 2.2T block. They are only popular because they are cheaper than the 2.5 turbo blocks. Take a step back and don't rush in, you won't be able to get the 2.2T block and 2.5T management without a lot of work, seriously, a lot of us have been there, don't spend 20k to find out that you could have spent a 3-5k price difference on a turbo Baja and come out ahead. It's your project, so I won't tell you how to do it, but those that have been down that road will agree, just get the factory turbo car and mod that instead.

Change the vehicle in the memory back to your Subaru, should get it back, or you're just looking in the wrong place?

Factory turbo Baja will be cheaper and more reliable than anything you do to your current car. Period. Over. /thread BTW, cutting holes in your air box has probably cost you power as they come stock with a cold air intake and you are now pulling air from behind the radiator and on top of the engine.

*Probably

Go to the hardware store and buy three to four feet of pipe that will fit over the wrench, you might even have some at the house, be careful though, your wratchet may fail catastrophically. If that doesn't work get the compressor, its an investment as opposed to a bill.

There is a pressure sensor inline with one of the metal hoses. It will be a two wire sensor, un-plug the sensor and jump it with a paper clip with the car running and the AC on, it should kick on if there is no other problem except for low refrigerant. If you add cans be aware that you keep adding lubricant, but it doesn't drain out, which means if you add too many, or too much you'll hydrolock the compressor. If you have to add more than one, and you need the AC that bad get it fixed professionally.

It would only be a problem if its from an EA-82, the track is wider, so compare them before you start putting the new one in.

If the springs were ever cut you will be super bouncy, even the stock struts are 18 years old so they may not be good anymore.

What did you do for the wheel molding?