NoahDL88

in sedans and wagons, non turbo, the GL's (EA-82) have single composite headlights and a black "c" pillar on the rear hatch and body color bumpers, the DL's have double headlights and a body color rear pillar, with black bumpers. GL's have just about every option available, PS PW PL AC and the rest, where a DL has an am radio. DL's have a single range and GL's have the dual range, when they have manual transmissions. RX, XT and GL-10 fall into a different category, cause they add turbo and a bunch of other goodies like full time 4WD. but i believe that the DL variants of these have the MPFI without the turbo, or it could be that the GL non turbo's have the MPFI, but to answer your question, yes, you can get MPFI without the turbo.

dump the bosch plugs, german plugs german cars. get a good set of NGK's and suck some seafoam in through a vacuume line, try for somewhere in the middle of the intake or you'll only clean one half of the engine.

true the forged may rattle when cold, but there much stronger than cast, so to me its worth it, and these subies warm up pretty quick.

I believe that the low beams have two fillaments, a low and high beam in the low bulb, turn on the low beams and try for voltage with a test light, or get a new bulb and see if that works, you could even go to the junk yard and try a bulb from there, but it may not be worth the hassle, and those could be burnt out too.

I'm gonna ditto the castle nut, that is the big nut on the end of the stub, its got those cut outs to allow for a cotter pin, hence "castle" nut, mine on the front loosens up, i need a cotter pin bad, but it makes that sound when she's loose

I'm gonna go with a stuck thermostat or possibly a bad thermo switch, if the engine is always running in closed open loop, it'll run real rich and could dog out on you. check to see if your coolant temp sensor is within specs after you check out your thermostat.

Check out the USRM, (resource manual) that'll show you how its done, at least the swaping of the gears

I would compare new and old cars like this, Old cars you had to repair every 3000 miles, and spend very little money, but it would certainly add up quickly New cars you have to repair every 30,000-50,000 miles, if that and it costs a whole bunch basicaly you pay the same, one is on the installment plan and the other is a lump sum. i'd rather go 50,000 miles and pay lump sum than have to check my points, and retune the carby every 6 months.

don't go too cold, your engine will never heat up and you'll have a lot of unburnt gas washing your cylinder walls, you get at most a half a hp, if you like winter heat and longevity, stick with a 180

This may be premature, but welcome to the world that rides a few inches higher than the rest, i thought the lift was the greatest thing ever for my subie, then i found out that swampers could fit after the lift, and i never looked back. congrats, take it nice and easy or you'll strip bolts like i did when i put mine in.

I was using the disty signal on the ea-82 so i never had too much flow at idle or anything so i didn't need a regulator, but with the ea81 i had it hard wired and so it put out max flow even at idle, i think my first regulator was not putting out the flow i needed, so i'm gonna see if a little more break in and carb tuning will make her feel better, then i'm gonna need to upgrade the exhaust, the stock pipes arn't cutting it.

so i've been trying to get my car to run since january, first it was waiting for parts and then it was getting the right parts and then i've just been trying to figure out what the heck went wrong. it turns out that subarus like more than .5 psi with a weber, the fuel flow is also critical, you need some. so now that i have the fuel pressure that i need she seems to be much more lively, i cant' wait to get her broken in and then figure out the last few kinks that are keeping her from being a real barn stormer.

I am jealous, not the kind of jealous that i'm gonna find where you live and take your awesome creation, but more like i'm gonna find where you live so i can see it in person, and then try to make on like it. that this is too sweet, i applaud your craftsmanship and style, those rear lights are way neato.

John, we'll figure this out, i'll be out there before the **** hits the fan. at the very least i owe you a very large beer.

Its official, the new 9-2X is an impreza with saab badges, what will they think of next http://www.saabusa.com/main/US/en/index_flash.xml

I'm interested in the outback sport, and i'm looking at anywhere from 96-98 primarily because of the price, and the solid 2.2. what would i need to look for when shopping around, i'll be looking for the manual, so any autobox issues should be irrelivent.

That was the one nice thing about spending 3 days in bozeman with a broken timing belt, there were tons of subarus, so i knew they'd have the parts.

I got a set for my car too, i havn't installed them yet, but i'm waiting for the pads to wear out on the rotors i have now, then i'm going to upgrade to the top of the line genuine subaru pads.

As with any job theres the book way and the "real way" taking out the fuel pump fuse will also work, trying to start the car.... better safe than sorry, gasoline is a carcinogen(sp) i've had my share of fuel filters, it dosn't hurt to bleed off some of the pressure first, although its not an absolute must.

Stick with the same ones that are already in the engine, the two different kinds, not only vary by lenght but also weight, if their weight is different your balance will be off, and thats no good, if you got the steel ones stick with them, although they are heavier they are made for the solid lifter motor, if you are running the aluminum pushrods those are from the hydro blocks, stick with those, cross breeding an engine is rarely a good idea. keep parts as a set. you wouldn't run 2 EA-81 pistons and 2 EA-71 pistons would you?

I would say ball park, w/o flywheel about 175-225

Fuji Heavy owns Isuzu, or they did, i think that GM may have taken over them. the nissan guys with their Z-cars use the LSD out of our cars.

If its a manual it could also be the hill holder clutch, mine is leaking a bit there.

I had the little hose under the TB go out on me trying to climb Queen anne hill in seattle, about half way up i start producing this big billow of steam, it was great, smelled like maple syrup. got to the top, checked out what was wrong and i havn't had that problem since. most of your hoses on the car have got to be at least 15 years old, they're the most likely culprit and the cheapest to fix, i'd check with them first. it could also be the O ring that seats between the metal tube coming out of the pump and the pump. good luck

the 5spd is great if you are running street tires, but if your running 28's then the 5th gear is pretty much usless, the 4th in the 4spd is taller, so its better for acceleration so you don't have to shift down into third as often, in a 5spd you'll be in 3rd a lot. the 1st in the 4spd is also better but it has a lower crawl ratio, so that means its better getting to the off road site, but not as good off road, but with the right driver, ie ken or eric, the crawl ratio is a mute point. the little difference isn't a big deal its like 22 for the EA-82 and 21 for the EA-81, the crawl ratio that is. how much time do you spend on road and with what tires. onroad small tires, go with the 5spd offroad, big tires go with the 4spd