NoahDL88

you should see if austin would do it for a flatrate cost, if you get the parts. he may be too busy and i don't want to volunteer him but he's got the skill and won't charge too much, i hope.

so the car runs, pics will be up soon, but the clutch isn't catching very well, it slips real bad, i should have prepped the flywheel and used a new clutch, but thats not the big problem. the car is running uber rich, its the same carb as the old engine but it seems to run way rich, black smoke out the tail pipe, its got bigger jets than stock, i think around 165-170 which was to make up for the bigger valves higher compression and better cam, oh well i'll get back to it later this week. so if anyone has a suggestion for me, i'm listening. BTW the engine feels like its loosing a cylinder on the road and then it suddenly comes back, weird, oh well its out of the garage for the first time in a month. thank you Tony, from Va, theres lots of tonys on the board, for the dipstick tube, came today right on time.

all good info, when i get the chance, which may not be until thursday, i'm gonna redo the timing, ie get it not 180 out and try to advance the timing, i think i have it at 12-14 now i didn't want to go too far. but i'll inch it up and see if that helps. My pcv is old, i may pick up a new one and see if that helps too.

the timing is 180 out, so i switched the 2,4 plugs, i'm gonna redo it so its on right, but the timing seems just fine, maybe a little advanced but nothing extreme

Tonight at 6:57pm EST, on March 15 2004, i got the new engine running for the first time. its first 20 minutes went off without a hitch, now the bad part. When i juice the throttle, i get a backfire out the top of the carb, a very loud pop, my friend thinks that its the carb gasket letting in air and creating a vacuume leak, my professor thinks that its the timing, are they both right or is one the more likely candidate?

I wouldn't be worried about people on the board that are registered, but there could be lurkers that are unregistered that could be using the board to find cars to run off with

the high pressure or volume oil pump will do nothing on a stock or mildly built engine, it will rob power, the high volume is only necessary if you are not getting the pressure that you need, which would be from bigger clearances or running the engine at a higher RPM, stick with a subaru OEM and you will be fine

if you hot wire it, like i'm in the process of doing myself, make sure that you have a good return line, if you don't the float bowl will overflow and you'll run so rich the car won't run, and then it really won't pass emissions cause your HC's will be through the roof

I love my TWB bumpers, however your rear bumper is making me jealous, but i'm getting a roof rack that will take care of my spare tire problem, the rack is from TWB of course!!

assuming that the plate is either japan or europe, and that you didn't take the picture yourself, where did you find that, thats real neat.

Thats what i wanted to hear, i think that last time i tried this build i had it out 180, or had the wires swaped, 3,4 backwards so it only fired on 1,2 so i'm thinking that my timing may be off by 180, but i can't try to test it until sunday when i get back to michigan.

either the CV's or the stub axles, either are pretty easy to replace, but annoying on a trail

I have that same problem, but when turing it over, and checking with a timing light it says its right on, could it still be 180 out?

the lift won't change your milage, but the tires will, i have figured, i believe its SubaruJunkies math and its been comfirmed on a rock crawling site with a calculator that going from stock to about 28 the difference is 12%, so to go 70 you are only going 55 and at 70 you are around 92. there are plenty of sites that will do the conversion for you, just google online conversions and there should be a site that has it, it just needs to be found in all the other conversions.

I was planning on doing the mod too, i'm waiting on a set of springs to make it here from seattle, no rush are spring clamps absolutly necessary or can they be seated and the top attached while in the car, and have the weight of the car push the springs down?

looks like a bilge pump to me, and 1psi come on the stock ea-82 subie turbo has what, at least 6.

I did not flow a turbo car but i believe that the bottom boxes are the same for both cars, the tests were on a superflow flow bench and the machine was calibrated between each run. What it seems to me is that once someone has done this mod, they don't want to feel like punks and have it not work so they go with the majority and say that they got all this extra power from it, for instance going from 60 in 4th to 90 in 5th would be a net gain of over 50 hp, the hp needed to make that much difference between the speeds because of wind resistance. i'm not saying that it dosn't work at all but it would seem that, myself included, that after you make a mod you drive more aggressive, which in itself will make the car seem faster.

can we get a weight of the hatch and the justy, that way we can do some power to weight comparisons. and power to weight don't lie. For example, a RC car, 2 hp if that, 5 lbs, thats almost 2:1 lbs/hp that thing will accelerate quicker than snot. its all relative, less weight the less work that it takes to have the same acceleration.

1 cfm will not give you the difference that you have attained. your increase in power isn't from the cutting of the air box, there must be something more at work. .3 hp will not make that much of a difference.

I flowed the intake with and without bottom, and with and without an air filter on a superflow airflow bench, turns out that the difference between a stock setup and the removal of the bottom of the box nets about 1 cfm, which in optimal conditions nets about .33 hp, all this mod really does is add noise, sure its cool but it won't get you any faster. sorry didn't want to poop on your popsicle, a better intake from the top of the throttle body out, would definately add flow, that big kink in the intake at the TB is horrific.

yea i know but it was the example, it holds the pressure even when the brake is released,

I'd reccomend the excellent PK Davis lift, its 3 inch or 4 for the older ones, it goes in in a weekend or quicker if your experienced around a car and have air tools, Zap's done it in a few hours i believe. after that either pugeot wheels or a redrilled hub or wheel and up to about 28 inch tires with minor trimming are all it takes to make a mud stormer and a rock beast

I swaped the entire dash, the complete thing not just the cluster, the only thing that i'm having trouble with now is the wipers and the right turn signal. i'm gonna sort that out when it gets warmer, this was a swap from a GL into a DL worked out just fine, oh and the oil pressure dosn't work but i'm installing a mechanical gauge to cure that little problem.

the front ebrake may not be so much fun, but it'll stop the car faster than any other ebrake on the market, thats what it was designed for and thats what it does remarkably well, the hill holder is a primative abs, when you push the clutch a plunger in a secondary cylinder holds, like abs, a brake line, i believe its the back left, when the clutch is released the pressure to that line is released and you are on your way.

I don't know if anyone mentioned it yet, but the fuel filter could be the culpret. and also try some seafoam top engine cleaner, through a vacuume hose, have it suck in the bottle, and then shut the car off for a half hour, then start her up again and a lot of the carbon and stuff should come out the back of the tailpipe