NoahDL88

take out all spark plugs, that will make the engine turn over easier, then put your thumb or someone elses on cylinder one spark plug hole, when it sounds like a pfft, ie its compressing, thats TDC on the intake, turn it until the piston is as high as it can go and voila, also look at the rockers as a clue they should both be closed.

just a word of caution, unless you have the anti knock requirements, ie; the manual says use XX octane, use 87, it dosn't help the engine to use a higher octane, it infact reduces power, unless you advance the timing it won't do a dang bit of good. on a turbo engine, absolutely use 90 but on an 83 hatchback for instance you don't really need anything above 87.

the theory behind retorqueing is that after the gasket gets compressed it becomes loose again, and a retorque tightens it up again, it can only compress so much so it only needs one retorque, its not a bunch of hooie, its not a warranty voider, theres good science to this. Oiling the threads puts the maximum torque to the head and not the threads, when torquing a bolt much of the force can be used to just turn it and not clamp it, if the threads are oiled more force is claming force and not turing force and you get a better seal.

Yeah like i said, i don't understand it all, but it would seem that when it has no vacuume its on full advance, so if the hose is left off it has too much timing, but with the new curve it lets go much sooner as to give it full advance sooner. at least thats my impression, i think i'm gonna call them up on monday and figure out what it means.

sorry to hear about your troubles, but they usually get you home, if only to your driveway. its good practice, and maybe this is a good time to get a new engine from ccr, cant argue with a 3 year warranty.

I got mine from the pull a part, turns out i didn't need it but i have one lying around

400-800 0 0 500-100 1 1 750-1500 2 4 1000-2000 3 7.5 1250-2500 4.5 10 1500-3000 7 11 1750-3500 9 12 2000-4000 11 13 All In 2250-4500 13 2500-5000 15 6000 17 All In I honestly don't know what all this means but i'm assuming its full advance sooner, which means more torque, i don't have a stock disty to compare it too but when the engine gets here and its installed i'll let everyone know how she runs, and will hopefully have pictures

I wish i was closer, i have a strict policy on working on cars, if it has 6 stars, its free. good luck finding someone

the air flow meter is extremly important to keeping your engine running happy, if you think its running better now, just wait until you get a good MAF, it will run like a champ compared to now.

Why are you using snow tires on a drag strip, wouldn't all the extra weight of the tires, plus the lack of good grip affect the time?

It may not be an issue for you but i had the fuel line coming off the back of the gas tank pulled snug in a fitting elbow so that is shut off the fuel flow, i was able to make it arround the block and back into the shop just as it stalled, got her on the lift and figured out the problem, just so you know, if you want to check that out as well, mine is an Ea-82 so that may make a difference

there is a tab that should be pushed, if you don't push it, it will break off, and vibrate loose when you need it most

its too cold for a sweatshirt up here anyway so i'm in no rush, thanks for doing this, i'm sure the weather and the new shirts will time themselves accordingly

time and time again i say that i don't like lowered subarus, and time and time again i see yours and think, if they were all like this it wouldn't be bad, a very nice job, its not very often you get a complete package and not a hack job, very, very nice

sounds like you got a really good deal, one you would want to hold on to for yourself, those gen 1's are getting rare and with a topper and jump seats thats a good score.

No it wasn't jamie, and i have the exhaust nut issue worked out but i wanted genuine SOA gaskets and oil filter, i was staring down the barrel of an 11 dollar mobil one or a fram, and no matter how cheap a fram isn't worth it

Are the Ea-81 and EA-82 skid plates the same, cause if they are i have a problem, my plate is too short, by about an inch, and that includes the spacer that Soobme was kind enough to provide for me with my new bumpers. if they are the same then my sub cradle has shifted back about an inch, so i really can't do anything to fix it but its not a good feeling.

Yea i'm going to the hardware store for the studs but for the intake and exhaust, i figured subaru genuine wouldn't hurt. i'm in the sticks, about 30 miles past nowhere so all we have are the chain stores, and to top that its only gm ford and dodge here, however i did see a whole bunch of new subarus around on the road today and that is encouraging

they should be, don't qoute me 100% but i have a very good incling that they do.

Are those Tex's old wheels? those are pretty sharp, and with the 350z blue, or say WRX blue which might be better;) that thing should look really neat

So i called up no less than 3 subaru dealerships in michigan to get intake and exhaust gaskets, first guy says that there was no Ea-81 in an 84 hatchback, cause "I have one" the second one says that there would be a 4-5 day wait, if, if, they had them at all. I call up Cater Subaru in Seattle, the lady is a bit rough but they have them in stock and can be shipped today and here two day air by thursday. now all i need is 4 exhaust bolts, no one seems to have them, i'm going to try the tractor supply down the street with a spare stud that i have. This is what i have do deal with owning a Subaru in GM country.

I like the idea of using a ski rack as a shovel holder, looks pretty gnarly, and if thats anywhere near WCSS6 we should check it out.

good deal, its 3000 miles, but i'll pencil it in, if i can get the two weeks off, the one before and after i could certainly make a roadtrip out of it.

short answer, yes long answer well, no not if you want an easy swap. its been done but its best to swap drivetrains, i.e. engine tranny and rear diff. all the wiring needs to come from the new engine, which is the hard part, making it fit is easy, making it run is about as easy as finding your keys in a snowbank. its been done enought that most of the kinks have been worked out, i plan on doing the swap soon, 2-3 years away, do a search to see if any threads have given the particulars.

I was wondering if anyone had the specs for the brake rotor thickness, mine are looking like they may need to be replaced and i don't want to if i don't have to. its regular wagon GL front but its XT/GL-10/RX rear disc in the back. On that note, if someone has general specs, like those and others like capacities, and stuff, i really can't think of much now, but it would be nice to get that on the USRM. On a completely different note, the distributor should be coming in from Philbin Group in Oregon on Wednesday and the Engine from CCR on Thursday and we will be celebrating the blesed union of engine and 88 DL on Thursday night, and it looks like its a match made in heaven.