NoahDL88

I may be too late but if i'm not i could use a seat, i'll probably be there anyway even without a seat i need to get my fix before i go back to michigan

Being in poland you may have different ratios in your trannies, but look at the old car that you got the transmission out of the rear diff will be the same as the front, in america if its got a 1.59 low range its always a 3.9 and if its an automatic its a 3.7 that seems to be the cutoff, autos are 3.7 and manuals, unless turbo which are 3.7 like the autos, the manuals are all 3.9

If its not the wrist pin access plug its the coolant plug, not necessary to remove to rebuild the engine.

usually when they run an EA-81 they run the prop off the front of the crank, thats a pretty neat set up and the exhaust is pretty basic too.

AWD is like a helmet, you probably won't need it, but do you really want to be fumbling for it when your spinning head over heals towards the concrete?

I'll be in town!!! i need a ride, as the sube is in michigan but i could be there.

you may have better luck with scorpion, they are pretty close to you in Australia and with the exchange rate it might not be too bad.

are you sure that the wires are in the right order and that the rotor is in the right position, that could keep the engine from starting, if you changed a whole bunch of stuff its probably somthing of that nature, make sure that the three wires that go to the coil are on good and tight and that they are on the correct side.

the different rpm could be attributed to the difference in wheel size, but as a genaral rule, if the car is a manual its 3.9 and if its an auto or turbo its 3.7 rear axle ratio.

hey zap, who own's that really neat one behind yours with all the stickers:D. Miles, that roof of boom was pretty neat, definately innovative. BTW Zap, i still need those Husky stickers to cover up the Cougs

we did just last week or 2 ago, but i had forgotten to get the EJ22 so thanks for reminding me:D

8 more hours and i'll have a superwinch S4500!! provided that no one outbids me, but if you do no hard feelings, you want what you want.

There are two s4500 winches on Ebay, one is brand new 250 starting bid, the other was used "twice" one day left 201, so my question is pony up for the new one or the "twice" used is probably ok

I looked up prices for the superwinch S4500, the prices were as low as 350 for a hawse fairlead and the base for a roller was 400, the highest for the exact same winch at a different site was over 650!! it pays to shop around. the cheaper ones even came with free shipping

rally russ has used accord front springs in the rear of an EA-82? and they seem to work well for him, i'm going to pick up a set over break.

Yay, lets go mudding again, come on it'll be fun, but we got time to plan so no rush, besides its hard to plan around the holidays.

the next question is what are the acessories i will need, if i put it on a hitch reciever plate i'll need that, but as far as snatch blocks, tree saver straps, chains and such, Qman, again i turn humbly to you, what do you carry in your winch kit?

I was wondering what the minimum line pull i would want i was going with the vehicle weight *25% but yea even 6000 is overkill, but for 400 a 9000 is not too bad, i didn't even think about ebay, probably should have, i'll check that out, but yea 4500 seems a bit more reasonable. Do you find the extra battery critical?(Qman), i have an optima and that seems fine for the lights i was hoping to be able to stick with one battery but if i'm gonna do this i'm gonna do it right.

Yea on average they were between 65 and 75 so my theory was to get a setup like qman has and have a nice steel bumper with a 2 inch reciever hitch so that i can take it off and stow it in the back. but the downside to that is that the bumper adds weight as well so its a vicious cycle.

this is open to anyone, if you're in hawaii and want to come for the day or an overnight offroad outing than go for it, no hating on indiana here, i for one would like to hear the miles fox storys again. they are so entertaining. I have to wait till january for my work schedule, but just about any weekend is open for me too, i'm thinking south michigan somewhere central, jackson dosn't sound too bad, makes it easier for the indiana folk.

I was shopping around for winches and found some very different prices, just thought that i'd share them with you guys, the sites are listed. i'm still in the planning stages and would need a custom bumper first:wave: so if anyone makes one i would certainly like one. Warn M6000 622 Truckperformance 569 4wheelparts Warn M6000SD 611 Truckperformance Warn M8000 500 4wheelparts Ramsey PatriotProfile6000 643 truckperformance Ramsey REP 8000E 400 ntwonline Ramsey REP 6000 652 truckperformance Mile Marker E8000 450 4wheelparts 400 ntwonline Milemarker E9000 450 4wheelparts 400 ntwonline I'm looking at the milemarker E9000 or the warn M8000 although i need to do some more research still, if you have had good luck with any particular brand or have preferences, or, like Qman have used them on a subaru, let me know what you think

I hate you all:moon: Really i'm just jealous, sounds like you guys and gals had a good time, i'll be out in december so don't get all mudded out without me.

if the top is black and says Subaru FI then its spfi, one injector, under the rubber hose. the MPFI had injectors near the spark plugs, if you don't see anything around the spark plugs then you have spfi, in a GL non turbo or non GL-10 then you have spfi.

if your car never heats up you are causing un due wear on the engine, it is most eficcient and the oil works the best around the 180-210 mark where the engine runs with a good t-stat, if its too cold you get a lot of washdown with fuel getting past the rings and diluting your oil, which as we know gas is a solvent not a lube, if it runs too hot, well, good bye engine but you knew that already. a 180 is probably the best way to go, cooler in the summer but you still get heat in the winter.

head gasket add ons are only really necessary if you have a FE block and AL heads, the different expansion rates rips up gaskets quick, thank you GM for teaching us this, in the 80's and again just recently with the duramax. one side of the gasket is glued down and the other is made more slippery, that reduces tearing, but since you have AL block and heads no need to worry, just make sure that you follow the proper torque specs, the older engines needed oiled threads and had a 3 step process, if you don't do this right you will be taking off the heads again.