NoahDL88

really? Really? I don't mean to be an rump roast but that is exactly what this whole thread is about Specifically the first post.

In that case, I don't think it would be strong enough, it may hold on the street, but if you head offroad the bouncing may be too much for the rack. You might be able to attach hooks to the back of the rear seat and mount it there, and rig up a way to pull the seats down quick to get to the deer gun faster.

Try This The EJ transmission is bigger around then the EA series transmissions, even the EA-82 needs to have the tunnel clearanced with a hammer a bit to fit. That said, i've seen an EA-81 wagon with an EJ swap and Auto trans, which is bigger still. so it is do-able. If you lift the Brat you will have no issues.

I wouldn't worry about the head gaskets if they aren't currently leaking. Clean out the engine bay as best you can, it will make any work you do later, including putting the engine back in, easier. Check the bearings on the pulleys for the timing belts, I had one fail 3000 miles after I did a timing belt. If you can swing it right now, replace them all, as well as the water pump and the oil pump seals and "O" rings, the oil pumps rarely go bad.

The EA cars are so easy to break into, you wouldn't have your SKS for long. The wagons have such nice storage under the carpet in the back, better, safer and smarter. The last thing you need is to get your gun stolen and used in a crime, keep guns in the hands of legal owners and keep it out of sight. Unless of course you're in your early 20's and want to look cool.

cutting springs is never a good idea, it changes the spring rate exponentially faster than you can lower the car. Remember seeing all those "lowered" hondas bouncing along as if they were on solid mounts? yeah, those cars had their springs cut.

I'll say it again, its not back pressure, its proper exhaust flow velocity. I have an automotive engineering degree and have been wrenching since highschool. The exhaust shop wants to sell you exhaust, if they were coffin salesmen they'd tell you to start smoking. Backpressure is a misnomer for flow velocity, kind of like a vacuum doesn't suck, the high pressure flows to the area of low pressure.

I'd check your voltages. Just to be sure, but I think GD is right on this one

I want to say that's indicative of an alternator on its way out, or at least it's voltage regulator.

Removing the cat will only increase power if the cat itself is bad. If you do end up removing it (which I would recommend against, as it is good for the environment) Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and a good mask/respirator. If you don't you'll get cancer. Engines don't "need" back pressure, we've been over this before, and I think it bears correcting. Engines need proper exhaust flow velocity, which in an optimal system is around 300 cfm. When the flow is less the air stagnates and creates back pressure (BAD) when it gets too high it creates too much internal friction and blocks flow IE back pressure (BAD). When the flow is between 250-300 as it should be it helps evacuate the cylinder's used gases and increases power.

your car is slow because its old, and has an auto tranny behind it. cutting off the muffler will make it louder, not much but I drove without one for 3 years. it won't add much if any power, but it does sound better.

kinked hose from the lift?

The approach angle on the impreza's are horrible. Departure isn't bad, but the GL is better. Nice rig though, I'm trying to convince my dad to get a lift for his 03 forester

Ratty2Austin has a 98 Brighton wagon with a lift and the Dual Range. Just putting that out there if that's what you're looking for.

You specifically stated OBS, not impreza, which as a trim level has more electrical do-dads, and is not the impreza you're now comparing the GL to. If you remove the bumpers on the GL you get the same benefits as you would if you did it to the impreza. For most, especially on this forum it boils down to cost, I'd rather have to go straight from the trail to the wreckers in a car that cost 500 than 5000+

OK, I think you've sold me, I'll be getting some zip ties the next time I'm at the parts store.

GL, hands down Cheaper to replace less to go wrong better approach and departure angles cheaper to start available lift kits off the shelf crank windows (on older models) EJ swap is easy these days Outback, Reliable, comfortable and a great car for getting to work Monday morning after you rip out an axle or break a knuckle on the GL

I'm sitting in the airport right now, but when I get home I'll post the rates. Off memory though it is based on body style and turbo, so the weakest is sedan/hatch non turbo, all wagon and turbo hatch (rx) and the highest is the sedan style rx.

Its on top of the block behind the belts, and in front of the intake manifold, about 2 inches wide and 1 inch tall.

Cams

I know on the legacy, first gen, there is a plug in the bottom of the tank, maybe there is one in the EA series that you can pull and strain the gunk out and put it back into the tank after all the crud is out.

did you rebuild the engine? check the cam pulleys for the detents on the back to make sure the correct one is on the correct camshaft, if you have them backwards the sensor won't get a signal, DAMHIK

Updates, Drove it down the road and back with the new transmission, all I need is a driveshaft and then shorten it and I'm ready to hit the trails.

I'll probably throw a few in the wheeler, but I'll stick with the metal clamps for a more permanent solution, 2.09 is cheap insurance.

Different