NoahDL88

Yes

could be a bad float, I had that happen on a lawn mower, its not uncommon. If this is a former spfi car and you didn't change the pump that is your culprit, those run 30 psi and the webber only needs 3 max.

I'm in, I'll be on the 4pm ferry from Kingston on friday, departure is dependent on my girlfriend getting out of work. One word on convoys, speed is critical, with 5-10 cars all zipping along cops see it as a christmas bonus. Don't speed.

Oil pressure goes to the light, the EJ doesn't have a gauge. Temp, just tap into the loyale temp sensor on the insturment cluster But of course, all this is covered in the "read me" about the swap that Nunchux put together for this.

Those turbo engines are temperamental, if you haven't done it or its been a while that the previous owner doesn't know, the cost of coolant and an OEM subaru thermostat are cheep insurance. The fan advice is good, and also check to see if there is any blockage between the evaporator and the radiator, and if the radiator is corroded, both inside and out.

The only thing slower than a GL is the guys still posting in this thread, it Necro'd in 2005

I've done it, most things line up, but some electrical plugs don't, and if you forget to hook up your vacuum lines you won't have any heater control or blend door operation. If I were to do it again I would get an aftermarket tach and call it a day. You would have to swap the entire dash, not just the cluster, those plugs are totally different. Seriously though, just get a tach and save yourself about 3 days of work and a whole mess of problems.

While technically correct you have to offset the front strut lift blocks, if you don't the camber will be wonky

You can also stick the filter with a screw driver and spin it that way. Not the end, the side.

Towing?

It may be that one of your tone wheels has a lot of build up on it, clean out your tone rings real well and see if that helps. The brake light/dash light issue may or may not be related, but is certainly not normal.

That idea has been around for years, the military was experimenting with that design for stationary generators about 20-30 years ago.

Auto or manual. If its auto did you remove the bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter? If its a manual, are the motor mounts still in the crossmember? they can keep the engine from sliding forward, use the factory jack to raise the front of the transmission up about 3 inches.

I had an idler let go 1 year after a timing belt because I was too cheap to replace it, and of course, murphys law, 1000 miles from home and a cute girl in the car.

You should keep all the extra bits in the transmission, it keeps it happy, and plugs up some of the holes that would otherwise leak. As far as weight, I'd venture to guess probably around 250-300 kitted out for the engine, and probably 150-175 for the transmission, 5 speed manual, the auto will be about 50 pounds heavier.

Oh man, i'm jealous, my love will always be Subaru, but my passion is motorcycling, and a Fuji Rabbit would combine the two in one glorious scooter.

Avoid harbor freight, if your tool breaks at home its inconvenient, if a tool breaks on a job you start loosing money until its fixed. At a minimum, I'd recommend the craftsman professional stuff, at a minimum. I've had great luck with Matco, yeah they are more expensive, but when you have to rely on tools to make a living quality counts. When I was wrenching for dollars I had mostly Matco tools. Don't buy in on the super large Snap-on toolbox, I did very well with a narrow box and a 3-4 drawer cart with the common tools I used every day. As far as price, I'm not a fan on going into debt on anything but a house, but the Matco man, or woman will take payments. Pay once, cry once, its cheaper in the long run.

before you get a new master cylinder, double check your ABS codes, my 94, lego will sometimes sink a bit when i'm at a stop, but it will throw a code and the pedal feels as if the ABS is kicking in. A quick reset of the ignition and its good to go again.

I remember your post from a month or two ago, revving the engine and dropping the clutch will cause those symptoms, which is ironically the exact same thing we told you back then. Get a new tranny and learn how to drive.

I've done a lot of research regarding importing a Pinzgauer, specifically the newer, Diesel one. If its less than 25 years old you're probably in for a major headache. If its OBDII, as I believe most Japanese cars are, you should be able to import it with relatively few issues, and if it shares the same chassis, the crash testing should be the same. Google it and let your fingers do the walking, but ultimately, I decided to wait until 2015 to import the Pinz I want to avoid the hassles and headaches of getting a newer car. It takes time and money, lots of money.

What vehicle are you looking at importing?

Check the obvious stuff, fuses, relay and horn switch.

Have you cleaned the carb? Perhaps a good cleaning and zeroing all the jet settings and moving them to 50% (count the number of turns from all the way in to all the way out) Intermittent issues could be ignition related as well, make sure your distributor is adjusted correctly and tight. May be time for a Weber carburetor if money allows.

If its an auto trans I'd check for the level, I had a tranny line burst the day after a new engine got put into my 96 impreza. check the fluid level and go from there.

Welcome back, and thanks for doing your time in the suck, we all appreciate it. What exactly is wrong with your dash, is it a specific gauge or is it the entire cluster?