NoahDL88

An intake and air filter assembly will run you 150-250, and will probably net you 3hp, and that will mostly come from the fact you now have a clean air filter. Exhaust manifold, 300-500, will probably get you 5-10hp, and that's being optimistic. Reground cams will give you the most bang for your buck, around 300, and the increase in HP will be 10-20 depending on grind, add to it a good exhaust and you might be pushing 25 more horse over stock, and that is being very, very optimistic. A basic tune up and a seafoam treatment would be the best place to start, if your plugs, wires or filters are not performing at their best you're loosing HP. There is no magic bullet that will give you an extra 100hp for $20, a 20 year old engine design doesn't have much aftermarket support, unless happenstance allows you to use newer engine parts on the older engine, or is extremely popular (VW aircooled anyone?) Cheap, Fast, Reliable, pick any two, you'll never get all three at once.

The VW guys also had the bar set much lower from the factory, and have aftermarket support. Why reinvent the wheel when you can drop in an EJ, fuel injection runs circles around carbs any day of the week.

I've been helping a guy swap is brat for oh 3 years now One day we'll get it done.

If its spongy, and you can pump it a bunch and it gets nice and solid that means you're compressing the air in the system.

you would need a piggyback computer, to wire in and program.

If it does pump up nicely, bring it back and tell them there is air in the system

sell it, use the money as a down payment on a used 02-03 WRX relatively cheap, and cheaper in the long run than getting the 94 fast. The 2.2 is a great, stout engine, but its benefits are reliability and durability, and not high performance. A third option, in 91-94 there was a turbo legacy available, you could try and get one of those and sell yours.

Non turbo Subaru's are designed to work with 87 octane, at least the 4 cylinders are. Running a higher octane fuel makes the ignition system work harder as octane is an anti ignition rating rather than a rating of the power the fuel can create. The common misconception is that since powerful cars require premium an econobox will run better on premium. While I avoid arco and the like, I don't put anything but 87 in any of my vehicles except the one that requires 91. Anyway, cliff notes, higher octane could cause a check engine light, but its not likely, most likely you're looking at a cat-converter related issue, evap system or ignition problem.

If its an automatic, it could be torque bind. There is a solenoid that controls it and with age it starts to stick if you, or the previous owner did not keep up on their maintenance of their transmission. I'd recommend at transmission flush and if your fluid is really dirty do it again in another month or so. Its fairly simple to do it yourself, much cheaper too.

Its not your wheels, its the tires, a full size super swamper weighs a good 25-30 pounds, where as the wheel weighs probably around 15 for the alloy and 20 for the steel. Honestly the only way you can use the big tires and keep clutch life is to have a separate set of wheels for the street that are stock sized.

Shhh, thats my plan as soon as unemployment runs out, traveling to exotic locales and performing EJ swaps for beer, food and gas money as I spread the EJ wealth.

Should

Depending on year, the headgaskets are a possibility. I remember someone on this forum having a similar issue with their Forester, it would overheat and they would have to add coolant every few months until the headgaskets finally failed catastrophically.

The cam pulleys and of course the covers will hit the frame rail, and the back of the valve cover also hits.

Maybe I'm just jaded, but I've seen so many posts about new subie owners asking how to tie their shoes and choose their oil that I now err on the side of moron. Brus Brother Don't take it personally, as this is by no means a personal attack, you seem to know better than most here. But I wouldn't trust many here with a heli-coil on a brake component, so I don't want to give directions that might endanger the recipient of my advice.

I'm really only 28

If its only 40 bucks for a new part i'd do that, you might even be able to find a used one at a junk yard for less.

either tap the threads or replace the part.

The RX tranny won't match up to the EJ engine without an adapter plate. It's hard to follow what you're trying to get at, It seems that you want to put a DOHC 2.5 into a brat (too wide, won't fit without modification) and using the RX transmission, which will require a custom drive shaft.

OP, machine work is only necessary if the heads are warped. If its been less than a year and you've gone less than say maybe 10 thousand miles it may be under the repair warranty period. I don't remember mileage, but when I worked at a dealer all of our repairs were warranted for one year.

Where are people getting front cuts from Japan? I'm in Seattle, fortunately near a port city, so that keeps shipping kinda low, but there is such rapid turnover in the clip importing business that friends that have swapped just 2 years ago have the companies they worked with out of business. I'm looking for an EJ20G, 5mt with everything to the firewall. If you have one, or know of someone who does I'm interested. Or, if you have recently purchased one and like the company you went with, let me know.

Don't quote me, but I believe that most of the WRX stuff will work for that engine, the older 2.0 stuff that is. Tex will know, He has an EJ20 in his RX. I'd wait for someone else to chime in before you buy the parts, but I'm pretty sure there is a US counterpart to the JDM engine

The engine is about 33 inches wide, and your frame rails are 31 inches wide. Just putting that out there. If you go with an STi engine, go with the STi tranny, with DCCD you'll have 4x4 when you want it.

I've had similar issues with my older subie, but it was cable operated. You may have a leak at your clutch master cylinder that isn't allowing a complete disengagement of your clutch.

Another friendly reminder, this thread started in 06, if the OP is still waiting on his hub he will probably also need a new battery and fresh gas, probably an oil change and most likely a DeLorean with a Mr Fusion drive.