NoahDL88

Does the borla header have a cat? that sounds like it's your problem.

Tach could also be a loose tensioner on your timing belt DAMHIK

Stock, if you don't get too crazy you'll get 3-5 dunks out of it before everything fails. If you spend about 50 hours on making it "waterproof" you'll be good for about 6-8. It is far easier, and this is the voice of experience, that you either: 1 replace car after you dunk and kill it. 2 don't dunk it. For my money, I've decided to go for option two.

It happens, I used to be shy, but now I'll start up a conversation with anybody riding a motorcycle, driving a subaru, or wearing anything from Michigan.

Yeah, that was us, I was in the blue Leggo next to his

you'll need to run hoses up the "A" pillar for all your vents, tranny 2, rear diff, the powersteering cap is closed pretty tight, i wouldn't worry about that as much, just make sure you have a good seal on that one. Seriously though, its a waste of time, you can get every fluid happy but you'll still be soaking connectors and wires, so you may have to junk the car anyway, except it will have some good looking fluid in it instead. you can get 207S bearings for the front wheels, they are sealed and are less likely to be ruined by water crossings. An older diesel has no electronics so you can cut the distributor entirely. Its fun going through water, don't get me wrong, but its just not worth it to "waterproof" your car

we need to let this thread die, the OP already tried stuff against our recommendations and now his engine is dead Where is the I told you so smiley?

Easiest option is to find a replacement engine, you can probably get one from Japan for less than 1200. Or, you can pull the heads, replace the valves and make sure the pistons are happy. which will cost you about the same.

go back to stock, make sure that you haven't picked up anything in your air filter, you'll clog an airfilter quick with a CAI. Make sure your IAC is connected still. BTW, all Subaru's come with a CAI stock

Naptha is a petroleum distillate. What ever it is, its good stuff. I'm also a big fan of Seafoam, but that's for a different application.

It looks and tastes like trany fluid. Also, based on the MSDS both MMO and Dexron have a great deal of Naptha and mineral oil.

The Loyale is single range. Nice body though.

It was meant in good fun There are a few online subaru parts stores, a few are good, a few are bad. In Seattle, Carter isn't bad, and the online parts from Walker's is pretty good.

I don't believe that there is any performance gain swapping EJ18 parts onto an EJ22. Stick with the EJ22, its bigger, has more power and is bullet proof if you don't overheat it. As far as finding Subaru parts Linky

Make sure the thermostat is installed correctly, if its backwards it won't open correctly. I would get a genuine Subaru OEM thermostat, aftermarket thermostats seem to be hit or miss.

Can you do it in 8 hours? Did you spend good money on an education to learn how to fix cars? Have you taken the time to get certified by your local state and or ASE chapter? Have you taken the extra classes provided by dealerships to make damn sure that when someone comes in with a car that you are trained to fix it and not taking a shot in the dark? Have you spent between 5 and 15 thousand dollars on tools out of your own pocket? Did you spend extra money on tools that are specialized so that you can complete the 16 hour job in 8? Mechanics are a bargain considering what you get for your money.

flat rate labor times are standard, so the difference in price is usually due to different labor rates, between 80-120 dollars an hour. If you go into Schmucks and buy a clutch kit you get it pretty cheap, but the Dealer/Mechanic wants to make money on parts too, so there is a markup there. If they replace or resurface the flywheel there is going to be between 50-150 dollars into that. 900 bucks for a clutch seems high, but not horrible. If you agreed to it, you're liable, if stuff was done without your permission above and beyond the quote, you can ask them to return it to the condition it was in and not pay. Separating thoughts into different paragraphs make it easier for the rest of us to understand what you're trying to say.

its still mostly tranny fluid :-\

Its a cleaner, more than an anti wear additive, i believe its mostly tranny fluid.

It can help with lifter tick, but ultimately we can't know if it will help your brat unless we know whats wrong with it. If it has a flat tire, MMO probably won't help.

I usually go with Bowwow on Filbert road. That is if i'm not going OEM

the driveshaft is the plug for the back of the transmission, you'll loose fluid out the back of your transmission

192 is out of the service manual.

when is the last time you did a complete tune up? How much stuff do you have in the back? bags of sand, bricks and the like. Plugs, wires, air and fuel filter can do wonders. Your O2 sensor may be sluggish.

I'd stick with the stock one, which appears to be the 192 degree thermostat. It will run more efficiently and have more power.