NoahDL88

Maybe it works well until the choke comes off?

Sure it'll work, but every time you lower it for the street, you're gonna have to swap tires, there isn't much clearance on the big offroad tires between the rubber and the fender. I don't really see the point, after you have it all setup the way you want you'll probably have spent about as much as it would have been to have one for the street, and one for the road.

If you have power tot he coil, but not out, then i'd suspect the coil

EA-81 had 68 or 72 horse, depending on weather it had hydro lifters or not. I'm not 100% on those numbers however. EA-81T, the T is for turbo, had 95 HP. The EA-81 had pushrods, and no timing belts. EA-82 Carby had 85 horse, and 100 torque EA-82 SPFI had 90 horse and 101 torque EA-82 MPFI had 95? horse and 101 torque EA-82T had 115 HP and more torque, maybe 135? legacy EJ22 has 135 horse, and 135 footpounds Legacy EJ22T, For turbo, has 160 HP, 180 foot pounds.

Sounds like alt, my legacy didn't even throw a batt light, left me stranded on the way into work. you can always get the "bad" one checked at schmucks for free, to know for sure. Might be a good time to get a new battery too.

Does it crank? cause if it cranks real fast, then you probably have a broken timing belt, and if you have compression on all 4 cylinders, then make sure that you have power to the ignition coil, and that all your plug wires are tight. Also, check inside the disty cap, and make sure that your rotor hasn't become seperate, there is a small screw on the side, and if that walks itself out, the rotor won't spin, and then you have no start.

Thats all the important stuff, sorry, trying to sort it out so its easier to read. It runs, so obviously your timing belts are intact. Also, you have fuel and spark, at least enough of each to make the car idle. Make sure that all your ignition connections are good and tight, make sure the screw on the rotor is also tight, don't think that could be an issue, but you never know. make sure that your plugs are gapped between .039 and .043, no more than .045 at the most. If you replaced your plugs with bosch, especially the plus 4's then get to the store, and put in the 1.49 dollar NGK cheapo copper plugs, this should solve your problem, if you don't have bosch plugs, then the issue may be elsewhere. Make sure you're not loosing fuel under the car where you put in the new filter, you may have a fuel leak. I'm out, next internet mechanic?

Actually, the SPFI was 90 hp with 101 lbs/ft of torque EJ22 will be far easier than the EA-82T swap, and like numchux said, its got much more bang for the buck.

You might try Nasioc, in their midwest forum, i grew up in Kzoo, and went to college in Big Rapids, welcome. The Subaru guys are up in Traverse city, although they may be going through legal trouble as they seem to disregard trademarks more than most, but their work is top notch. As far as in GR, i don't really know anywhere, but at least heres a free bump.

We have a winner foam is air, air does not lubricate, engine goes bye bye. And thats how noah got a really cool JDM engine in his car.:cool:

EJ22 FTW, trying to turbo a car that came non, especially one so old and with such primitive fuel injection and no anti knock provisions is asking for a blown motor. I've got the EJ22 in my offroader, and with 28 inch swampers, i'm able to hold 5th gear up hills most of the time.

as for the rest, sorry, but i can't help you there, a good rule of thumb, is that if they don't go to a sensor, or to the ecu, they should either be a power or a ground, but not all wires that you have left over should be cut out, some will go to sensors, and others are spliced in and out of the loom that you keep.

Thanks

If the manual says GL5, then use GL5

The throttle sticking has nothing to do with the EGR, and everything to do with the throttle. There is a little rubber cap on the end near the carb, and some times pieces of it break away and they then get caught between the cable and the cam actuator, happened on my SPFI motor, whoa was that scary.

Dont know exact mileage, but its been from michigan to san diego and now to seattle, plus all around here since.

I didn't have problems when it worked, and now that its not hooked up, i still don't have problems, I'm trying to find a manual rack, but without luck, it is a bit harder to steer at low speeds.

The axles on the EA-82 are remarkably robust, i've never broken one on or off road, but i'm pretty cautious. I am switching to XT-6 outer bits and shafts soon, just need 4 boots, and 4 lower strut bolts, and i'll be 5 luggin in style.

Does anybody know the width of the Legacy cross memeber? Shh, but i'm thinking about putting it into an EA-81.

EJ22 FTW D/R 5MT, it was a DL, so it only came with the single range TWB beefy bumpers, which were clearly up to the challenge 3 inch PK Davis/ OZified lift 28 inch SSR super swampers Locked rear end The large cheering section didn't hurt. The Toyota guy was a good sport, and a nice guy, and what you don't see is that Turbone made it through that section in his Hatchback about a half an hour later, after all the other toyotas and Sami's tried.

The second one is me, 10,000 views in just over a month, my E-fame is spreading

Shoot, if you were closer, i'd help you swap motors, just to show you theres no hard feelings.

Also, make sure that your tires are the same size, when i bought my car, it had 175's on the front, and 185's on the rear

Maybe its just me then, but with the accord springs in the back of my wagon, my wagon was draggin @$$. Oh well, its fine empty.

If you have an EA-81 either the 4mt DR or the 5MT will work, the 5MT is prefered as it has a better low range, and an overdrive, which you won't need much with the big tires, but its nice on downhill runs.