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Everything posted by NoahDL88
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Welcome I don't have a parts list, but cam seals, crank seal, waterpump, oil reseal kit, mickeymouse gasket and of course timing belts are what you're gonna need, although i'm sure i left something out. The wheels came off of a Pugeot, either a 504 or a 505, an 80's model that was neither fast nor spectacular, just be sure they are not the 390 "metric" wheels, they only have one tire, made by michelin that fits. Fenders off of any EA-82 subaru should fit, 86-94, although the coupe may be different.
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In the rear, you're gonna need to swap the strut cap, the bit with the three studs. In the front its direct. You may have to bash out the inner fender behind the strut a bit to make it work, but it should get in there. to swap the strut cap, you're gonna need a spring compressor, if you don't have one then....
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Anyone from washington!
NoahDL88 replied to Subaru_Mechanic's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
you might work for at least 5-10 years at Subaru, get your official subaru certs, and then go solo. -
The GL one bolts right on, and you get a thicker wheel, real nice, the wiring you have to get a bit creative on, but its quite simple really.
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EA82 Starters... Differences?
NoahDL88 replied to MoscowSubaruDude's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
auto and stick starters are different -
Comes around goes around. . .
NoahDL88 replied to ezapar's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
I'm coming down again tonight, i need the pass side front caliper off the legacy I've said it before, and i'll say it again, i came for the Subies, and i stayed for the friends. how many car message board buddies go to each others weddings for goodness sake? -
Have you checked voltage to the coil? and spark from the coil?
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I've been using coat hangar with good results, i just throw a few in the back of the car before i hit the trails. They also work pretty good holding up exhaust when you're pulling out a toyota
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If you go with the 5 bolt, you're limited to the XT-6 rear caliper, but in the front you can go big with the impreza knuckle, which will let you run the WRX front calipers, i believe, but that may be more than you want to spend. Cross drilling and slotted rotors are for real racers, you'll never need them on the street, and besides, pads don't gas as much as they did anyway. Unless you are going for bling, then by all means, bling away.
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Tire Question
NoahDL88 replied to cutter's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
An all season is a mediocre tire at best, what i'd reccomend is to get a second set of tires/wheels that are a dedicated winter tire, you'll be much happier with them in the winter, and you can switch back to your regular tire in the summer. Probably not the answer you were going for Others could probably help you more, i'm running super swampers, an offroad tire, so my tire needs are much different than yours. Welcome to the board. -
I've been driving with mine locked for about 10 months, i'll never look back, offroad it can't be beat, and on long trips, or in months where there isn't an offroad event, i'll just pull the axle in about 10 minutes. 100% better than an open diff
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Even with the big motor, you're still gonna want a "real" low range. My plan, if i can get the time/money/parts, is to get the RX center diff lock, 1.59 low range, 4.11 final drive all in one nice package
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Sorry to hijack, but its a quick ride over to spokane on the bike, i could come try and help with your conversion, although, you may ask Tex if i'm worth it, his 3 week swap took me 6 months.
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www.perfectpower.com Its a piggyback chip, Zap's running one in his imp, better tuneability of the fuel map which gives him better power and fuel econ.
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Hope you don't really want low end torque, cause with exhaust that big your gonna loose it.
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The differnce between your F250 and the subaru is also about 4 liters of displacement. Lifting a rig will affect MPG, as the frontal area is increased as the vehicle is raised, because there is more drag underneath the car, not everyone has the SMT6
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the headers are worth about 20 bucks, tops, Borla can't seem to make a subaru header that won't crack to save its life. and their million mile warranty isn't transfered to you, so when it brakes in the middle of winter with the snow all around, you'll be up a creek without a paddle. Avoid borla headers like the plague, mine cracked within 3 months, they completely seperated into two pieces. Borla if you're listening, make better parts, cause a million mile warranty means wongleflute if i have to replace the part every oil change.
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The pully will only save you maybe .25 pounds, so that would be a whopping .5 hp, at the crank, which would be nothing at the wheels. I hate to be the bad guy here, but you're starting with a car that has 72 horsepower, there is nothing that you can do to it, short of ponying up real money, to make it perform decent. Do a tune up, get good NGK plugs, the 1.49 dollar ones, there the best, gap em to .045 inch, which is a little bit more than the stock specs, get new wires, rotor and disty cap, and advance your timing to around 12 degrees BTDC, add a aftermarket ignition coil and you should have a more peppy feeling rig. When you're ready to spend real money, you can throw on a weber, which when tuned right will make your low end responce feel a lot better than stock. Good free flowing exhaust will help also, but a complete set from head to tail will be pricey, the aircraft guys go with 1 5/8ths from the head, and once they merge they go with 1 7/8ths, it maintains good driveability off idle but helps with top end. After all that, which will cost somewhere between 800-1200 bucks, you might top out at 90-100 horse power, and that is if the carb is tuned real well. The lightened pulley is the least of your problems.