NoahDL88

If it has 2 exhaust ports per head, its an early 95 or older, if its got the single ports it is newer, and is an interferance valve design.

the 4spd seems to have enough problems with big tires and a stock EA-81, the 5 speed is essentially the same as the later legacy stuff as far as strength goes, at least thats what i've been lead to believe, if you're pushing 200 hp, and if you are, i would assume you're gonna be using an EJ, i'd reccomend just using the dual range EJ tranny you have over there, or at the very least the 5mt dual range in the EA-82's if you need a true 4wd.

Whoa, step back, put the 36 mm nut back on, unless you are changing rotors, which i assume you aren't. There is a 14mm bolt on the rear of the caliper, and after you pull that one the caliper will rotate up out of the way of the brake pads. Very Important Don't just push the piston back into the caliper, it must be spun clockwise, either with the proper tool, or with pliers. be sure to relieve the pressure in the system by pulling the master cylinder cap off. If you don't finish it all in one night, don't leave the cap off overnight, water will get in and you won't stop as well. Now, if the "back right side" is the rear caliper on the back axles, there are two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper on, once they've been removed you can just pull off the pads, or if necessary pry them out with a prybar/screwdriver.

If you're ever near a Matco/Snap-on/Mac truck, spend the 14 bucks on their generic subaru axle pin punch, worth every penny at twice the price, especially if the car just came off the highway.

if you have the failure sheet, get it scaned in and we can try to decifer it and point you in the right direction, not passing could be a whole lot of things.

14's are where its at, puts more rubber between you and the rocks, which is always good, but the 15's do have more tire sizes going for them. Stay clear of the 390mm or the 15.3 inch pugs, those things won't work for anything.

Not too big of a deal, just wanted to let you know of the possible, if remote consequenses. Drive it like you stole it.

Huzzah!! The rears aren't too bad, but be sure to blead the brakes if the piston comes out of the cylinder, i forgot that once and had a heck of a time stopping going down Queen anne hill, if you're from Seattle you know what i'm talking about. Also, be sure to adjust them, as they don't self adjust.

They not only help to keep the road crap, mud, snow and the like out of the way, but they also aid in cooling, which is important if you drive it like you mean it.

You won't need pug studs, as they have the same thread pitch as a subaru, i don't remember what they were, but there was a guy that found out what other studs fit, and were a bit longer for extra strength, a search would probably find it real quick.

Probably saint, but i'm biased Add me to mechanic/engineering, soon i hope

I work saturdays, so i'm out, gotta start planning these for sundays.

you can do a 5 lug swap, thats covered in the help section, and also in numerous posts, searching for the 5 lug swap will yeild a pluthera of info. As far as keeping up with it, umm, i hate to be the guy that craps on your popcicle, but with 72 horsepower you aren't going to keep up with an STi unless you get your car down to 600 pounds or less.

If you detonate, you can damage it in a hurry, in a matter of seconds Make sure that you don't knock, and you should be all right

not something i'd do, you might check into acetone though. Diesel is an oil, more so than a fuel per-se, and your car won't run on it straight, so if there is any seperation you may not have a running car. Try cleaning the carbon deposits out with a good old seafoam treatment. Also, diesels run Cetane, not Octane, so its a totally different category.

Should be under around 800 if you get all the seals replaced, with the water pump, oil pump and timing belts, all at once. thats dealership prices, independent shops will be lower, but by how much is hard to tell. Davalos, call up Hodges Subaru in Ferndale, 9 mile and Woodward, ask for Ben and tell him Noah sent you and he should be able to help you out at least a little bit, or not gouge you as much.

at a minumum you would have to change the caps, as they allow you to turn the wheels, which unless you only want to go in straight lines is rather helpfull. also the rear struts don't have the same setup for adjusting camber, so that would also have to be modified, so unless you go a wicked awesome idea up your sleeve, this is probably not the greatest use of rear struts.

Push and turn, once it "catches" it should go in pretty quickly, i believe you need to spin it clockwise, which also could be your issue.

I use needle nose pliers, and to be sure, take off the master cylinder cap, it makes it 10 times no, 100 times easier.

you might be able to find something on rally supply websites, but they'll probably be from australia so shipping will be more than the parts themselves. a lot of people have made snorkles on the board, mostly out of pvc pipe. something to remember however, if you actually plan on going through deep water, you should also plan on waterproofing your electronics, and getting your vent tubes from your transmission and rear diff high enough so you don't take in water there either, and don't forget your oil filler cap, ps fluid cap, and you should have a kill switch for your electric fans, or you will blow fuses or fan motors if you go through water and they turn on.

Canada it is, they have great forrest trials, and deep gooey mud

depending on the condition of the flywheel it may need replacement, but a resurface should do fine, thats the "standard" for most shops, like turning brake rotors it gives the clutch a fresh warp free surface to grab onto. That said, i've replaced a few clutches and have not taken the time to get it resurfaced, can't really tell a difference in logevity, but with EJ22 and swampers the clutch won't last that long anyway.

I'll try GCK tomorrow, just couldn't remember if that was the place or if there was somewhere else that would do them custom for me.

I could build my own, i have also heard that the EA-82 inner cups will fit the ER27, but i'd rather get good quality center sections with new joints and boots. cause i don't want to be rebuilding custom axles in the wilderness.

try white lithium grease should be able to get it at a part store for cheap in a little tube, the problem with wd-40 is that it will just wipe away quickly and you'll be squeaking again in no time.