NoahDL88

There seemed to be quite a few posts about what was a hatch, I figured I'd make it easy for everyone, at least everyone what doesn't know and looks at this thread.

This is what we on the forum call a hatch.....EA-81 This is what we call a coupe... EA-82

Don't just add refrigerant, if its not low the extra oil can and will grenade the compressor. Oh, you're bleeding from the head, just apply a tourniquet around your neck. :-\ Go through and clean your connections, and get the pressures checked, it very well could be low, but if it is you will want to fix the leak not keep bailing out the Titanic.

Unless you can confirm your timing with a light, I wouldn't know how far advanced you are. Like I said though, any car with cat converters, or the smaller fill hole for the gas tank was not designed to run on leaded fuel, so any speculation to that effect is really irrelevant.

I hate to poo poo your advise on running the highest octane available, but the EA-81 was designed to run on plane old 87, it runs great on it, and will get the most power out of it, provided the engine is stock. Leaded gasoline was starting to get phased out in 75, when manufacturers started putting in cat converters, it made the new cars unable to use leaded gasoline. Your theory that any Subaru, EA series or newer was designed to run on leaded or higher octane fuel is incorrect. If you're old enough to remember, the leaded and unleaded filler nozzles at gas pumps were a different size, so you couldn't fill your unleaded car with leaded gas. As far as adding more fuel, the bottleneck with any I.C.E. is airflow, liquid fuel is easier to pump, and takes up much less room than the air it's mixing with. For emissions 14.7:1 is the best bet to burn all your fuel and not have any leftover emissions, however with carbs it is true that you want to run a little bit rich, 13.2-13.5:1. But it is a fallacy that adding more fuel and timing will increase your power if your airflow remains the same. Timing is of course set conservatively from the factory, but how much is a matter of debate, and leaving your EA-81 at 8 deg BTDC is not a bad idea, atmospheric pressure, temperature and humidity can all vary day to day and what timing was on the ragged edge of detonation one day can easily pole vault right into broken piston land without so much as stopping to get its passport stamped. These are of course my own opinions, based on my experience, what information I could glean from the internet, as well as from my automotive engineering degree. ETA, This would be more pertinent to those of us in the USA, I don't know when NZ made the switch to unleaded.

Yes, someone will chime in with what specifically, but if it came from a carbed model it should just drop in.

It is possible to put an EA-82 into a car that came with an EA-81. A lot of people will give you reasons not to do it, but if you need your car running, you need your car running.

The exhaust on those cars is shielded almost the entire way back, so the shields could look good but the actual exhaust tube could be crushed, causing a flow restriction. Its a long shot, but worth inspecting. I would imagine that if the thermostat was out of the car for any length of time that there could be a lot of varnish buildup on the valves, suck in some seafoam through a small vacuum line and that should help you out.

Is your teacher a Prof there or a student?

I think most people just reseal the oil pump, at least on the older models, maybe someone else will chime in with an opinion as to whether or not its worth replacing the oil pump.

You're not wrong, just apples to oranges, and the fans of the Frankenstein are just fans of apples.

all I need are 2 belt sanders and a big battery Lets go!!

Nice! Are you coming to the subaru meet on the 9th in Kent?

Did you adjust any screws? turn them all the way in to lean it out If you replaced or checked any diaphragms you may have cut or torn one. forget to put any jets back in?

The Gol' Darn German's ain't got nothing to do with this!!!! /Beuford T Justice This engine is going into an EA-81, where frame rail clearance is at a premium. If its not going in there its going into a 94, where the 2.2 heads mean I don't have to do any extra wiring. Either way the 2.2/2.5 is exactly what I need/want, so stop going to every Franken Engine thread and poo-pooing the idea

CHICKEN!!!!! BAWK BAWK BAWK My Dad offroads his 03 Forester, even got an upgraded skid plate (thanks Paul Eklund) If a 69 year old guy can do it you have no excuse.

I've got to get the engine, then have a nice chat with Cap_R about Propane and propane accessories. Re-drill the flywheel and get a SJR adapter. Parse down the 2.5 harness to run ignition in conjunction with the Propane. Decide if that's really what I want to do right now, or 2.5/2.2 the 94 Legacy instead. And of course, #1, Numero Uno, Find a Fricken Job

Good call on the radiator fans, if those aren't spinning when it gets hot you certainly have a problem.

Its really hard to tell without my crystal ball, but I'd start with the basics. Check that your coolant is not too old and needing replacement, just because it looks good doesn't mean its providing the boil-over protection you need. Radiator caps that don't hold the 16psi or so pressure that they once did can cause overheating Leaves, dirt and dust in your fins, fins pushed over or debris caught between the condenser and radiator. Thermostat not operating correctly, it's a cheap fix. Don't be tempted to replace it with a lower temp unit, it will cause more issues than it might fix. Water pumps do go bad, but the impeller is metal, so its not as likely as some other vehicles that have plastic impellers.

The advantage of a coilpack and computer is that it's substantially more resistant to water intrusion, an afternoon with a bottle of de-oxit and a tub of di-electric grease and the thing could almost run underwater. That and I'd rather not bodge together a disty on a car that could easily run with a standard coil pack just as easily.

The Automatic transmission cooler is part of the radiator, its normal, unless you have coolant in the AT fluid, or vice versa. Mixing would be a sign of a bad radiator.

Welcome aboard, I've been hooked for almost 10 years now, probably would have been 10 if I hadn't lurked so much at the beginning and just signed up.

Mostly Lifted, I'll add some pics later. I still need the rear shocks and to fab up the steering extension.

Are you at Ferris State? Good info The biggest variations of the transmission were if it was in an outback or not, and if the powerplant was turbocharged.

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