NoahDL88

It's weird, were getting fuel just fine, but no spark. on the FSM schematic, i've checked for all powers and grounds, and we have all of them. its just frustrating i tell ya.

I'm assuming this is for the rear? If it is, you either need custom rear axles that combine the inner CV joint with the standard EA-82 axle shaft and outer CV, or, if you go with an older legacy diff, you may be able to use the axles you have, it all depends on if your diff is an innie or an outie.

Should be less than 10 on a drain and fill, 2 gallon bottles should do the trick. as far as the filter, its a spin off, it takes 5 minutes, costs 5 bucks and saves you mucho denero in the long run. its a no brainer, change the filter.

i'll be there, if i can stay off the bike long enough to fix the car.

Hate to poop on your popcicle, but mineral oil is petroleum oil. 2 trips, michigan to seattle and back, broke a timing belt every other trip. Michigan to San Diego to Seattle, no problems Michigan to New Jersey and back, no problems Michigan to Minneapolis and back, no problems Michigan to Connecticut and back, no problems Michigan to Baltimore and back, no problems All trips were subaru related in some form or another

Safe trip, keep 2 down, can't wait till you get back, were both rockin the Subaruki's, gonna have to go for a ride together.

I've seen a horse fly, i've seen a house fly, but i've never seen a triple post Congrats, n00b

In the rear, a horse shoe works pretty good, or at least a upside down shaped bit with a cross piece. for the front, you're gonna wanna watch out for camber angles, cause if you don't you're gonna be burning up tires in no time.

Congrats, i just hit the big 3k, drinks all around

I'm glad i'm finally driving this year, looks like it'll be great.

REALLY? DID THEY BREAK YOUR CAPS LOCK TOO? Yeah, its the first subaru they ever sold, and they bought it back a few years afterwards. really nice rig, and no, there not selling i checked.

theres an extra set of plugs, but as long as the neutral safety switch is jumped, and the 5 volt reference wire is made to be the opposite of what it is now, ( it varies depending on year) then it should work just fine. just a few more wires to trim, nothing i'd get worried about though.

I concur with Nipper, and the Texan, that was my inital thought after i read your first post, before seeing theirs. Now, since this is a brand new vehicle, and if Subaru is gonna do the right thing, there gonna figure this out for you. but..... if this was me, i wouldn't top off after the pump shuts off.

I would be less worried about your warranty, and more worried about your insurance, if you get into an accident, they can deny your claim as you have disabled a safety feature. There is no good reason to disable DRL's, Subaru's turn off the headlights with the ignition, so i just leave the headlights on all the time.

You're the boss, As of now we have 30 mugs ordered, and 23 paid, don't remember off the top of my head, but if you send a money order last week, i got two, so you're squared away. BTW, personalization is free, just write what you want your names to be

While nothing you've listed will really do anything on its own, you may get a little bit of an improvement if you add them all together, although i would caution you: 1, the "high performance" air filters may flow more air, but they also flow more dirt, sand and dust. 2, I trust the engineers at FHI more than the guys at company XYZ when it comes to stock fuel maps. 3. a loud exhaust does not horsepower make, besides, the stock bits on the new stuff flow pretty good for the NA models. 4. If the grounding kits did everything that they claimed, the cars would come with them from the factory, oh wait, they do have ground straps from the factory

dang, we better start returning those pug wheels, or were all a bunch of lousy hypocrites.

the 3.0 is shorter than the 3.3, has more power, and has been built longer so parts are easier to find, and its more reliable. if it were me i'd go 3.0, and its got a timing chain so no probs with the t-belt.

thats got to be litteraly minutes from where i work, hmm, lunch anyone?

your battery could be on its way out, a 98 could very easily have the oem battery, which is only good for 5 years, so at 8 you're pushing your luck.

You might read the owners manual, and see what fluid it reccomends If you flush out, it'll take about a gallon to get the old stuff out and the new stuff in.

Weddings are so overrated Except yours and tex's of course.

On fords they add a friction modifier, that they use for the LSD rear ends, that seems to quiet them down, maybe call Subaru and ask if there is a TSB on the whine, and find out what they reccomend.

The best thing for the SPFI is a tune up, as it has been said. After that you have to spend real money, as a car with 90 horse power will never be a speed demon. Cams and exhaust could brobably be had for under 500 bucks and wake up the car tremendusly. Any mods to the intake track will net you almost nothing, i've bench flowed the intake and found no increase if the bottom is removed, or if an K&N is used in place of the stock filter. All it really gets you is more sound, which is cool if sound won races.

First off, STP products are useless, and won't do anything but empty your wallet. Seafoam is great, i wouldn't worry about using it in your oil unless its ticking, but sucking in a bottle through a vacume line is great, i just pulled a motor with 250k on it, and with a seafoam treatment about 20k ago it was brand new clean in the intake track. As far as switching to synthetic, its mucho spendy, 4-7 bucks a quart, but you can extend your oil change intervals if you make sure to keep the level up above the fill mark. a word of caution however, it could remove the varnish and buildup that is keeping your seals from leaking, so it could start leaking oil from various locations, although that is not terribly common, it is somthing to think about.