NoahDL88

What does it bump the compression ratio up to? Would i have to run a higher test gas?

.039-.043 thousandths in metric i believe thats .09-1.1mm

I can't tell you where to go for keyless, but i will strongly urge that if you do, be sure to install it right, we take about 3 of those systems out a week at work because of no-start problems to lockout problems, if you cut corners now, you'll be paying for it 10 fold later.

In order to run a rear swaybar you need the rear "A" arms that have the provisions to hold the bar, you may get lucky and have them, but if you don't you'll have to swap them on, and even if you do, you'll probably have to get some hardware at the junkyard to make sure it all gets fastened properly. As for the exhaust, 2.25 may be a bit big, but with a turbo, thats less of an issue as with a naturally asperated engine, its not the backpressure that you have to worry about, its the flow velocity, between 240-260 fps (feet per second) if its too slow it stagnates and backpressure goes up, and if its too small it can't be pushed out fast enough and backpressure goes up.

Plugs don't come "bigger" the gap between the electrodes can be made bigger, but unless you have a coil that can handle the increased gap, you're gonna get more misfires and be down on power. If you do increase the gap, i've run .050 without any problems, make sure that your wires, rotor and cap are in tip top condition. As for "high performance" wires, umm, theres two types of wires, ones that work and ones that don't, high performance dosn't seem to make much difference in wires, especially at the minimal voltage and rpm's you're gonna be running. For plugs NGK all the way, thats what they were engineered to run from the factory, and they'll run better on those than anything else, i've seen quite a few horror stories on this board about bosch plugs in a subie. Get the cheap copper plugs, if you plan on replacing them every 30k, as you should, they have better spark capacity then the platinum, the platinum aids in longevity, but dosn't help spark power.

The "Kitt" light was base off of the Cylon Raider from the original BSG, one of the producers did both. If i were to do it, i'd get the light, and a silver XT and get raider, or Cylon as the plate

foam filters are the least effective at stopping particles from entering your engine.

1600, EA-71 pistons are a direct swap Delta regrinds the cam for less than 100 bucks Philbin in Oregon recurves distys for less than 100 84+ heads are hydraulic, and have bigger valves, those are the ones you want. you can't mix hydro heads with a solid block, at least it didn't work for me. Webber on top, 32/36 DGEV get the electric choke, much better than the water choke. Free flowing exhaust, no bigger than 1 7/8'ths after the header or you'll have absolutely no bottom end, this is what the Aviation guys run, and i tend to believe them. If you are feeling real ambitious, put the EA-81 disty gear on the EA-82 SPFI disty and make it SPFI, not as good as the EA-82, but it'll run 100 times better than with any carby, downside is you need to do a wiring harness conversion I'd personally go for the EJ22 swap, its no walk in the park, but its easy enough that with a few extra hands and a wiring diagram you can figure it out. I've had an EA-81 wagon with this swap and it was super quick, and i still have an EA-82 wagon with it, and i love it.

Just a word of caution on the wire mesh K&N style filters, we get about 10 powerstrokes every month in for blown turbos because the trucks are running aftermarket K&N style air filters, which is a bummer, as there not covered under warranty. Just a thought as you choose your next air filter.

SubaruTex, you may know him by his big brown wagon, pulling me out of the mud and blowing his clutch. Well, its his birthday today. So, congrats on another year, and many, many more.

Thats cause your motor was made in Japan for the domestic market :cool:

And an oil pressure gauge FTW

So, i dented the oil pan in my 88 offroader Its an EJ22 so technically its new gen, but the dent made the oil pickup mad, and now i have no bearings Good news: I'm picking up a JDM EJ22 and there delivering it for free, which is nice. 30 k miles, and 1 year warranty. She'll be up and running by friday, i hope.

If you push a motor hard, even if its new, it will burn oil.

This is my jealous face, i was gonna call them tomorrow Nice score though

I have a great Excel spreadsheet for everyone that's ordered, paid and what they want personalized. Were already up to 10 mugs.

When you disconnect the battery, turn the lights on, that helps drain the primary battery. The system also has a secondary power unit incase the battery cable is severed in the collision. Turning the lights on helps ensure that this secondary power cell is fully discharged. Be sure when you recconect the clockspring that you do not spin it out of the car, if it gets twisted too far one way or the other it will snap the wires and you either get no horn, or a short in the airbag system that will introduce you to about 2 yards of high strength fabric in about 40 miliseconds. Not trying to scare you, airbags are like guns, if you treat them with respect they are safe and useful.

809 hp beats 642, thats just how the cookie crumbles, and rolling starts aren't for drag racing, there for nascar and amateurs

Anza borego is great, took my dad's forester up there, with him of course, and got in to some great places, its not too bad if you have a map, cause it can get pretty tricky back there without one. Its also a really fun drive over on 78 or whichever road it was we took. My parents are in Encinitas so they are slightly more north than you. Bring water, if you get unavoidably detained you're gonna need it.

If you have an alternator that is not working properly, it will kill even a brand new battery, when the voltage drops below a certain threshold battery life is severly deminished. just about any auto parts store should have a battery and alternator testor, get them both tested and figure out which one is bad. Before you go, make sure that you have your parking light switch turned off, the connections are good, and that you do have an alternator belt.

i got the 5mt D/R and the EA wagon is a brick, with the lower 3.9 or even the 3.7 gearing in an XT that thing should get at least 30

i'm getting around 25 mpg with swampers on the rig, with a good mix of highway and city.

Its a roll pin, like the axles, i have the button, but on the DL/Loyale body, i used a 20 cent mexican coin and it hasn't rattled since, that was over 4 years ago. cheaper and easier, a nickle should fit nicely.

Have you been breaking tie rods? i've wheeled pretty hard and never had one go bad, the radius rod sure, thats junk, but the tie rods seem to hold their own.

is this going to be attached to an auto or a manual? I believe that there is a 5 volt reference wire that either needs voltage or dosn't to make it work, i don't remember which way it needs to go though.