NoahDL88

At least my offroader runs

I'll see you at karttrack at 10 then No skid plate yet, but i'm still ready to rage it.

If its right hand drive, you're gonna need the JDM wiring, or the European wiring, the USDM stuff won't be any help.

It'll be the one with 6 starts on the front of the car. Come on Tex, its Ed i think he knows

I forsee you loosing all low end torque, which with a 1.6 is already at a premium. -1 just my .02 though

Please use size 2 font, not the size you are using, it sucks bandwidth and there's no point in doing it. when you use a bigger font, or ALL CAPS its the internet way of "screaming" Do you think that the other 10,000 posts are not important because they use the normal font size? the rear disc swap from the EA-82 will not get you even close to where you need to be as far as stopping power necessary for a EJ turbo. Again, does Nairobi get European or American based cars? that will make all the difference in wiring.

You don't have to scream, we can hear just fine. If you do the swap, online manuals will not be sufficient, and depending on where you get your cars, the USDM manuals may not work, the European ones might be better, if Nairobi is in fact where you are from. Its definitely doable, Superdave did the swap with a JDM EJ20 and his car is all sorts of quick. If you do put in the WRX motor, you HAVE to upgrade the brakes, the brakes were made to handle 90 horsepower, and with close to 250 depending on what model and year you use, you won't be able to stop, or use the engine to its full potential if you don't have adequate brakes on the car.

I just have a question for you to clarify what exactly you are doing. are you putting the EJ18 into an older rig, or are you puting the DR into a newer rig? Either way, rock on, i got the EJ22 in my 88 DL and i love it compared to the EA-82 that was in it.

theres a wicked awesome FAQ at the top of the offroading page, that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about subie offroading.

? Complete sentences make it easier for us to help you

I'm back in, the car I was looking at got sniped out from under me, but it looked like he needed it more than i do, so its cool.

we all come from Seattle for the wheeling, there's no point in having everyone thats going drive farther to a place thats no better. Organize a Portland area offroad outing, theres got to be plenty of people in your area that want to go out, they just don't have a place or a time to meet at.

I may have to back out, it looks like i may be buying a car in OR If that falls through, i'm still in though

the 5 lug swap is well documented, just look for the USRM in the top right corner. I don't think that you'd have to shorten the axles if you did the 5 lug swap, as those will move the wheels and everything out the necessary amount.

She's been here for 2 years and has only 1 post, i don't think she's coming back.

give it a week, i'd bet money its a misfire code, should go away after X amount of drive cycles where the engine reads normal operating temperature.

If its a thick wire, the length won't make much difference, if any, were talking less than a 100th of an ohm between 1 foot and 4.

Sure its possible, but you'd be going into uncharted territory. I can't think of any reason you'd want to though, the lever works 100% of the time, theres no vacuum lines to break, or electronics to fail.

if you put in an STi motor, you're gonna need to upgrade the entire drivetrain, or you will be breaking stuff left and right, hence the rear 5 lug swap. The wiring will be more difficult then the "regular" ej swap, as its a lot less documented. yes, yes you do.

I think that looks really cool, but i caution you, that the doors are not just to keep the rain and fat chicks out, they are very important to side impact safety. Looks really neat though

Depending on if your car is an XT or not, you only have one fuel injector, not 4. and despite what anyone says, if you have the SPFI manifold, don't under any circumstances get a weber, its 10 steps back, and you loose power. I'd also avoid any aftermarket type foam or oiled type filter such as the K&N, you wouldn't belive how many turbos get dusted and then consequently not covered under warranty because of K&N or equvalent style air filters. on my rigs, OEM air and oil filters are the only way to fly. Besides, under flow bench testing, the K&N nets only 2 CFM at max valve lift, which on a good day is still less than 1 hp advantage. If you're looking for HP, get a cat back exhaust, 1 7/8 is about as big as you'll want to go, or you'll loose all of your low end torque, which is the only thing that makes stop and go traffic bearable.

I don't have a winch, but talking with guys who sell them, i'm pretty sure that when i get one i'm gonna go with the M6000 and a multi mount. I'll be nice haveing a bit extra for when i'm pulling my self, and it'll be nice when i'm pulling out bigger rigs than my own.

Legacy front hubs will work if you have XT-6 lower control arms, but you'll have to use the XT-6 stuff in the rear, and relocate your e-brake

Ditto, lube the slides and make sure that you have the backing shims if available. also there is disc brake quiet, don't know the manufacturer, but if you put that behind the pads where they contact the caliper that should help too. If the pads aren't chamfered on the edges that could also cause your squeak.

Just cause i'm old: The rear E-brake will be much less effective then the front ebrake, if you're doing it to "drift" then thats one thing, but from a practical standpoint, the front ebrake will actually stop the car, but the rear ebrake will be just enough to get the rear to kick out, but not stop the car in an emergency.