NoahDL88

Dibs:banana: Sorry i don't have the number, but i think it is in the post that monstaru linked to.

It dosn't seem like a fuel pump issue, if it runs you should have a good pump. Unless, the computer sends a signal to the pump to cycle when you turn the key, so that when the engine starts it has operating pressure. and after the engine gives the computer confirmation that the engine is spinning, it tells the pump to start pumping, so my theory is that it may not be doing this. thats a long shot, but who knows. you could also have water in the gas, a clogged fuel filter, depending on how recent that replacement was.

Carnac says, "Use the USRM and the search function"

word

make sure that the rear main seal is pushed in beyond the step, if its not i'll leak

the difference between old wires and new wires is a bigger difference between new wires and high performance wires. Not worth the extra money on any motor thats not turbo and making gobs of power.

Look at all the other post on this subject, The guys that run BYB swear by them up and down The guys that run AA swear by them up and down. What we don't need is another flame thread on this subject. One of the manufacturers is gonna promote his product here, although promotion should stay in the VENDORS FORUM . The other manufacturer knows the rules and won't. Nothing personal 86RuGuy :cool:

if you over fill your oil, the crank becomes a blender, and frothes the oil to a delightful whipped consistancy, which, when its pumped into the bearing journals allows air bubbles in, which as you know does not lube for crap. Cliffs notes: If you over fill, you will blow your motor.

Short of cleaning the HLA's you can run a cleaning oil in your engine, like marvel mystery oil, or plain ATF, about 500 miles from your oil change put about a Qt of MMO or ATF in the crankcase, be sure to not go above the full line though. you may have to do that a couple of times, but it should help quiet them down a bit.

Rally cars do it because those engines run on the bristleing edge of blowing up, and they often do. the EA-82 runs on the bristleing edge of stalling from lack of power, i've been there. A backfire is a sign of a poorly maintained vehicle, unless you have around 500 horsepower. there are 1001 things you can do an learn about on your car, wanting to get it to backfire makes about as much sence as leaving a spark plug off at idle to get a funky "big cam" idle.

I have about 20 extra in the trunk, do those count?

I put a WRX bar on my 96 OBS, so i'm about 99% sure that it will fit on your car too

What about it? As far as springs, if you do any turbo swap into an EA, you're gonna NEED upgraded brakes, so you're gonna need to do the 5 lug swap, and then you can choose what ever struts and springs suit your needs.

GL, EA-82 body axles, (85-89) have the same knuckle design as the loyale, infact they are the exact same part number. They are interference fit on the inner race of the bearings, and are sometimes a pain to get through the hub.

It was either me or WJM, or both, as it has the same spline count as the 5MT D/R, the pressure plate is obviously different, as the EJ flywheel doesn't have a step, but the clutch friction material will work, or so a crazy guy in Michigan told me, as he was using it in his T-Wag

in order to get a backfire, you will either need to get a high overlap cam, and run really rich, which is not good for your motor, or you need to get a turbo, and run it really rich, which is not good for your motor. Just my .02 cents, but why would you want to get a backfire anyway? backfires don't win races. They have kits that will play BOV noises if you really want to make the car sound likes its fast, but don't want it to be any faster, i don't think they have backfire noise kits though.

4X140, just a heads up.

Yeah, i'm still in, but i'm gonna have to hustle to get the skid plate ready in time.

Worked for me

last 3 tanks my mileage has been up about 50 miles per tank, i think its the summer switch also, but maybe my Subie is just happier.

I've posted this in the "retrofit" forum, but i figure i'd post it here to let the offroad guys know, but i'm trying to get the parts together to make a super-custom tranny: 4.11 final drive RX AWD/Diff lock center diff 1.59:1 low range front LSD 2wd first gear, 3.656 as opposed to 3.545 I have the RX tranny, but will need to scrounge for all the other parts, so if you have any of that stuff laying around let me know.

There is a small helpfully hint on the fronts at least. When you go in for axles, ask for the 2wd version, they're more stout, at least they are at the stealership, don't know after 10 rebuilds if they differentiate between 2 and 4wd anymore.

This thread is DOA, maybe we could let it die the death its been so sucessfully trying to accomplish.

If i added everything up i think I'd be in over 10K, and thats on an 88DL that i bought for 500 bucks, really don't have much to show for it either, the fun add on bits cost the least of everything else, compared to the 2 parts cars and the 6 nights in the motels because of timing belt failures.

Welding exhaust is tricky business, you need enough penetration to get the welds to hold, but you can very easily burn through the thin walled pipe. it may just be leaking where you previously fixed it, in which case you may be able to get the people who did it last time to do it again for free.