NoahDL88

A K&N filter will do nothing for horespower, and will let in much more dust and dirt, which will shorten the life of your engine immensely. my .02 wait till it gets out of warranty, you don't want any legitimate warranty claims kicked because you put on some aftermarket bits. Straight line, it should already be plenty quick, and there's nothing you can do short of a turbo that will make it quicker in any quantifiable amount. Go with suspension and wheel/tire upgrades and you won't be dissapointed.

There are probably over 100 individual codes that could be wrong, however, i do believe there is a way for you to check for codes yourself, however i don't recall how. Seeing as the cats were replaced recently, i'd make sure that your o2 sensor is plugged in, as that could very easily been left unplugged.

I'd try a 3/16th drill bit, and make sure that you have the entire pin out, and just keep PB blasting it every few days and it will eventually come out. really big hammers don't seem to hurt either.

Whenever you're ready to move to the PNW, we'll be waiting.

Ahh grasshopper you have much to learn of my plans, with a welded rear and a front LSD she'll spin all 4

So, April Fools day at Dicks, on Holman road? around 5-7 pm?

IIRC, the old (80's) FT RX tranny were open in the center, like the front and rear diffs, and it wasn't until the EJ trannys that the center became viscous. The lock made the system a true 4WD. I'm still looking for some parts to try somthing similar myself. RX transfer gear and center lock, which i have 4.44 or 4.11 final drive gears 1.52 Low Range Front LSD I'm mostly doing this for the crawl ratio, more than the on road performance, but any customization in either direction should help everyone out either way.

Airbags don't go off on rear end collisions. ever. The car should be safe to drive, just make sure that there is nothing pinched off or rubbing as that could cause more problems. Make sure that your headreasts are at a height that will stop your head and not just stop your neck, i know a lot of people think its uncool to have the "head" rest in the pulled out position, but it's where it should be unless you're a midget, saved me from whiplash in a 50mph rear ending. car was gone.

The manual should say anything from 10-30 to 10-40, and maybe a few higher and lower viscosity oils. I run 10W-30 Castrol GTX in all my subies and have had real good luck with them. A lot of guys on the board will suggest running 20W-50 if you have lifter tick, but this is a double edged sword, it will quiet down your lifters, but it won't fix the problem, and it will increase wear on startup. If your lifters are ticking its either a problem with the micky mouse gasket on the back of the oil pump, or your lifters are sticking, which can usually be fixed with a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil near the end of an oil change, the last 500 miles or so, but don't over fill the oil.

Saturdays are cool, i was just putting fridays out there, had to start somewhere. It would be really cool if we could get other boards in on it, LegacyCentral, JustyForum, even Nasioc

Awsome, once i get a skidplate, you gonna take us down the path you Yota's found?

As the title says I'm thinking soon after Tax day or end of March. Mostly trying to figure out what days work well with everyone, weekends are good cause we can go to the PAP before to get parts. Weeknight is cool too. Northgate RR Tenative dates March 31st or April 7th, both Fridays

So what i'm gleaning from this thread, is that it will be hard to use the Forrester struts with the XT-6 knuckles? I may drill out my top two bolt holes so i can adjust my camber, cause that would be wicked awesome. As for the front ebrake, except for power sliding, its better in every way, it actually stops the car, unlike every other ebrake on the market

It is only better if you detonate on regular, or if you are running a power adder, as it has been previously stated. On a stock Non-turbo, anything higher than 87 is a waste of money, unless the owners manual calls for more octane. The higher the octane the longer the hydrocarbon chain, and the harder it is for the spark plug to ignite the fuel air mixture. Octane's only function is to resist detonation, which high compression and turbo motors take advantage of. As per my "Automotive Engines, Theory and Servicing" by Halderman and Ellinger, as part of my Automotive Engineering Technology degree "Do not purchase fuel with a higher-octane rating than is necessary. Try using premium high octane fuel to check for operating differences. Most newer engines are equipped with a detonation (knock) sensor that signals the vehicle computer to retard the ignition timing when spark knock occurs. Therefore, an operationg difference may not be noticeable to the driver when using a low-octane fuel, except for a decrease in power and fuel economy. In other words, the engine with a knock sensor the engine will tend to operate knock free on regular fuel even if premium is specified. Using premium fuel may result in more power and fuel economy. The increase in fuel economy , however, whould have to be substantial to justify the increased cost of high-octane fuel. Some drivers find a good compromise by using midgrade fuel to benifit from engine power and fuel economy gains without the cost of using premium all the time." Cliff notes: If your manual says use 87, you'd better, or Mr T is gonna come to your house and pitty you, and then Chuck Norris will roundhouse kick you just to drive the point home. But if your manual says to use 92, you probably should, unless your car is 96 and newer, then it will be alright to use 87, but it will be down on power.

I'm in

It is old, i guess i could update anyway, screw that old EA-81, I got the EJ22 now, and it was worth every hour i spend on that PITA wiring.

Just putting a feeler out, i really enjoyed the Reiter pit run, and wanna get out again as the weather is improving every day. I've never been to walker valley and would like to go, as its up near me. Or, we could make a weekend of it in May down at Evan's Creek, or do both I'm always up for the peninsula too.

you won't be able to ignore the siren song of the EJ forever, you'll be back.

check out the offroad forum, there should be a thread at the top that addresses all of your concerns.

I have one in Federal Way, but i'm in Stanwood, so i'm sure i could pick it up next time i'm down there and bring it up. I'm thinking 150 for the entire diff. :cool:

I don't think chiltons has a manual out yet for somthing that new, but that will be your cheapest option, you may be able to get a copy from your dealership, but that will be mucho dinero.

the first pic also shows the sway bar, it goes the opposite way that an EA-82 bar does

Thats what SubaruJunkie said looks like you got your ends mixed:rolleyes:

If your check engine light flashes, it will store a code, or at least its supposed to. My first impression is that you have chosen a poor engine management system, if any at all, and that your cats are clogged, might check to see if you are running at or near 14.7:1 AFR

I didn't really go out of my way, i typed that whole message from the same keyboard the BYB design has been around longer than the median age of the users on this board, its tried and tested, and dosn't add any axle angle like your lift does, which as we all know is the enemy of axle longevity. Great, and no thanks!! the EJ oil sending unit is on the top of the motor, so i've not had any problems there. I'll be going to the Boeing store to pick up a sheet of Titanium in a few weeks, and should have a wicked awesome skid plate by our next outing, were going up to Walker Vally in April, if you guys are game.