NoahDL88

Yeah, that one works better, sorry

Let me know how I can help, I feel bad enjoying it the last 5 years, and not contributing anything in return.

MWE Axles in Colorado, they may still be doing free shipping. I think they're www.roobuilders.com

Mudrat79 put a 2.2 with the auto box into a hatch with the T-case and dragged it over the Rubicon, seemed to do real well, don't know if he was quite on 35's but at least 31's maybe 33's

I'm looking into flights for the weekend, maybe i'll be there.

Let me be more accurate, i swapped the entire dash, not just the insturment cluster.

Most people here just run the outback springs and struts, that is on the legacy, on the Impreza, the Forester struts swap in real nice, but in the rear you have to swap the top hat, which isn't bad when you can borrow the spring compressor from autozone.

Happens to the best of us, i tried 3 different engines until i got one to run in my car. that was a fun 2 years.

Maybe it dosn't, but i'd hone those cylinders, and maybe get new rings, and try again.

1. i can afford them 2. refer to #1 If i could swing an STi i would tomorrow, but i can only afford the 1000 dollar or less car bracket right now

Oh Oh, i want a sticker!!!!

even if there round they still need to be honed

You answered your own question. It will have a plug that looks like the MAF plug, but with a few extra wires i believe, it will be located about 6 inches or less from where the hood hits the back, and should be rather close to the vehicle center line. at least thats how it is on my 96 IIRC

Did you hone the cylinders at all? is it the same short block? If you are using the same block without roughing up your cylinders, thats your problem, new rings won't seat on a smooth cylinder. try adding a squirt of oil to the cylinder and re try the compression test, if that helps you got a leak somewhere, which i would say is the cylinder, as you said you had the valves and heads worked on. How many times can you say cylinder in one sentence?

I was able to do it, the only real issues that i've had were the oil pressure gauge, and i believe another gauge, but i can't remember. its pretty straight forward, but make sure to hook the vacuume line back up, as right now i only have foot warmer, which is no good when we get a frost, which luckily i wake up after it goes away.

I'll be passing by Scappoose on the way to Seattle, maybe we could throw down in the mud and give my car the patina i washed off in a moment of weakness.

make sure that you test the compression with the throttle at wide open, if its not it will read low. Also depending on how you number your cylinders, your passenger timing belt could be off 180, that hash mark has to be down when the drivers side is up. Also, the belts are not set to TDC, they are set to 3 small marks somewhere else on the flywheel. Maybe the rings are just not seated well yet.

EA-82 FTW I think it did though I also went through that rather stinky section up at either evan's creek or reiter pit that you were so kind to tell me that you wouldn't come get me if i got stuck as the mud would leave an odor that could make a skunk gag.

The factory one would be about 200 from the dealer, plus about 60 bucks to install it. there are aftermarket ones that are cheaper, the "high performance" ones, should be able to find one for 75-125 ish, mine is going out on my 96, when it lets go i plan on putting on a cheap aftermarket one. Its actually easy to do yourself, all you'd need is a half inch ratchet and a 22mm short socket, and a 12mm wrench to tighten up the alternator and powersteering when you're done.

I don't believe that the marks for the crank sensor are on the pully, they are on a small toothed wheel behind the pully, you may just need a crank sensor. If you start your car and look at the pully, be careful to keep your tie or cords from your hoodie away from the spinning parts, look at the pully, it should not be wobbeling, if it is, it should be replaced. The TPS is easy to test if you have a DVOM, you should be able to backprobe two wires and see that the resistance goes down as you open the throttle, if there is a dead spot then it should be replaced.

It could be leaking from the valve cover or the cam tower, there are some small "O" rings that need to be installed and if there not it will leak, which could be dripping onto your exhaust manifold and causing your smoke.

Basically, swap each short bolt with each long bolt, once the sub frame has lowered you can start putting in the spacers. i started with the rear and worked forward, but i guess working from the front to rear would work too.

The 4wd light should be easy, but you won't have the "LO" light unless you swap dashes, and then that becomes rather trying if you want to get all things working again.

Cool vid, although i've done deeper without a snorkle, on my morning commute. is that in OR or MO?

What are the three arrows in front of the high beams for? If people want to send me some more of these, i really want to make a "desklight" in a box, and maybe figure out how to set the needles on the gauges to move to the music like they do in the equilizer. If anybody knows how to do that, let me know.