NoahDL88

Try smart service, they should be up your way, I'll be up there in a month if you can wait that long.

I concur, 730 megs is a good size for a full length DVD thats been compressed, not so much for 2 minutes.

I think it was a good idea, if you can't remove the trouble makers, remove the problem, because if my signature was removed and not yours then i'd be complaining that i was unfairly targeted. Quit your complaining, i gave money too, and i gave it in good faith that the moderators, who are all volunteers would use it with good sense. I have yet to be let down. They have to make hard and sometimes unpopular choices, but since the boards creation in 98 it has grown to 15000 members, so they must be doing somthing right. Go to the other 30 boards if you don't like it here.

Subaru, the Swiss Army knife, and the Leatherman all wrapped into one beautiful 2500 pound package.

No big deal PK, just scouting around for TV's I have a friend in LA that i'm sure is having a party, its just a long drive.

I'd say now is a good time to change the belt, as when it goes it'll take the valves with it. When you get it done, get the oil pump resealed, you 99% won't need a new one, get the front cam and crank seals replaced along with the water pump. and if you're feeling generous, i'd replace the idler pulleys too. As for the oil, as long as you've replaced it on time in the past, you should be able to switch from dino to synthetic, but don't expect miracles, you may pick up a k/l or two, but not much more than that.

I'm on torrent, i could let it seed here for a while

That happens to most EA-82's even with the stock muffler, at least the ones i've seen.

I believe the splines are different, but i could be wrong. there are other steering wheels that you could snag, they are unfortunately all rather silly looking as you have said, but at least it would be different

It's what i'm here for

If its the nut, you can tightent them in car, keep the center from moving with a 6mm allen wrench, the hex nut should be either 14 or 17mm, i'm leaning towards 14 though, might check all other nuts and bolts in your front end while your at it, they are all 14,17,or 19 up there.

Whenever the rush dies down, i'd be up for it

Just wanted to CYA

Wasn't there someone here that did that? he needed to shorten the oil pan, but he got it to fit, and he said it pooped and git like a bat out of heck

Thats actually who i had in mind

Just a GM tech? I think everyone here knows that its not easy keeping the General on the road, you're no tech, you're a miracle worker.

We have two channels at home, snow and blue. So i'm thinking that if someone in the greater San Deigo area has a big screen, or even a normal screen TV, and needed someone to bring some beer, i'd like to invite myself, and possibly other Subie fanatics if there are any others out there that want to see the game.

Don't have for the OBW, but those specs should be very close Its the same basic sensor, as the temp increases the resistance should go down. 32F approx 3Kohm 68F 2.5 K ohm 176F 1.25-1.5 K ohm

Ok, those specs will be way off then, i'll look around the garage to see if i can find my legacy FSM's

you might check your PCV, the only thing i can think of is that its sucking in air through the PCV and thats leaning it out, its a long shot, but the best i can come up with.

What year, as the resistance will be different depending on model. For an Ea-82 the resistance should be... 14F 7-11.5 k Ohms 68F 2-3 K ohms 122F 700-1000 Ohms Basically, the hotter it gets, the less the resistance should be.

Is it more of a ticking or a knocking? The ticking is usually ok, but if your oil light is on, that worries me a bit, make sure that the wire to your oil sending unit is connected and the screw is tight.

If it works, leave it, you'll be thanking yourself in the summer, besides, taking it out won't make enough difference unless you have optimized the rest of the car, suspension, engine and weight reduction else where. If you do decide to yank it, make sure you get the R-12 out of it before you crak the hose, for one its horrible for the environment, and second its worth about as much as gold per oz. so you'd be throwing money away even if you just end up giving it to a friend it would be worth it.

I believe that the PSi is up around 400, at least thats what the gauge says when its in operation, but that is the "high" side behind the oriface and without that the pressures should be lower, maybe around 150 ish. As for plumbing, i believe Jerry did this on his hatch/brat. As far as electrical you should be able to run a relay and switch. For the air, you'll want some kind of filter that puts oil into the compressor to keep it from burning up, and you'll want somthing to take it out after it gets through so you don't get puddles of oil in your storage tank. Jerry put a small tank in the spare tire area, and if i ever find the picture of it i'll be sure to put it up here.

The engine wiring is about as far away from chassis setup as you can get on a car. It will all bolt in, you may have to mix and match some parts, but it will all work. You might try www.nasioc.com as they do a lot of the swaps over there, and are probably more documented. Over here Dr.RX did an STi swap into a late 90's impreza much like you plan on doing, he'll tell you, and i'll tell you, after my own 2.2 EJ swap, the wiring is typically strightforward, but nowhere near "easy" and at a minimum, i would get a Factory Service Manual for the engine you are swapping into the car, i'd also reccomend the recipient's FSM as well, so you can integrate the wiring harnesses together for minimum hassle. As an ASE tech i can tell you that this is a thinking swap, not a hammer and pry bar job, so unless you plan on getting real good at soldering, and really like your DVOM, this may not be right for you, this is in no way to discourage you, rather to get you to do your homework beforehand, so that you have everything you need before you start to avoid getting discouraged and quitting in the middle.