NoahDL88

If its a brat its an EA-81, OHV, if its got 4 doors its an EA-82, OHC. If its a coupe/hatchback it could be either, the hatchback is EA-81, and the coupe is EA-82. If you post up the vin there's got to be someone here that could decode it for you.

I'm in San Diego, willing to go as far as southern LA, looking to find a do it yourself junkyard, don't like the ones where they pull it themselves. If anyone down here has a "favorite" where they treat you right and the prices are fair, let me know.

I'm gonna have to vote for the EA-82 body, preferably a DL wagon, but as far as plants, EJ22 FTW

The brats were not rated for any towing, its not just a matter with going up the hills, but stopping at the bottoms. As much as it pains me to say this, if you plan on towing, that brat may not be such a good idea. However, if you don't plan on towing, you'll love the brat, they're great little trucks.

Wait, now i'm confused. Did you use an EJ rack and lines in an EA car? and if so which one, 81/82? Second, i have the EJ pump, with the rest of the engine natch, and the EA lines, but they don't fit together, the hard line is too long.

Dont forget interior trim, might get an extra dash insert so you can play with it to make sure you get the look that you want.

Thanks, you're only 2 months late. Adds to list of things i need at the Lynnwood PAP. Thanks.

Punctuation is your friend. I had a friend fly in from Switzerland, and he wanted a reliable car that could get him everywhere he wanted to go in the US, and the battered, broken down wreck that he left for me when he went back to Switzerland is now my rebuild and reborn baby. I came for the cars, but i stayed for the friends.

Its the big pulley on the front of the engine, can't miss it. Its a 22mm, i'd reccomend a shallow socket, or you'll have a heck of a time getting the ratchet and socket between the engine and the radiator. I'd be gentle and turn it clockwise, and if you feel any solid resistance, pull your plugs, all of them. and see if it cranks now. I'd also see about labeling them, as you don't want to put the wrong plug in the wrong hole.

As far as the TCM, i believe that the only thing you'll have to do is figure out a way to bypass the neutral start, and change one wire in the ECM, its either 5 volts or 0, at least it is on older subies, and which ever one it is, make it the other, and its now a MT ECM. If you get a pinout of the ECM, which i don't have, sorry, that should be able to tell you if there is a MT reference signal or not.

You may have knocked the power wire off the starter, there are two on it, one is bolted on, and the other is just a small tab. Also, if there is any moisture in the disty, i'd spray some WD-40 into it just to be safe.

I believe that the rear half will interchange, i don't think that the front will though.

Basically you will be doing the EJ swap, but backwards, and instead of wiring problems, you'll have to deal with axle and driveshaft problems. A guy did it in his forester, and it worked real good. when i get the time, i might do it too.

If the light is on, the dealership should be able to pull a code and determine why it's not working. I've driven my dad's forester through the snow, and had the abs light come on, and it went away after the snow melted off what ever part it was pissing off.

I know 100% that EA-81 and older steel wheels won't fit on the new EA-82 front hubs, because the caliper grinds. I don't know about the alloys, but i'd venture to guess they don't.

Something to concider, the EJ D/R is 1.19 low range where as the EA D/R is 1.59, which allows you to crawl much more effectively.

There is nothing, i repeat nothing, that you can do to a car for 40 bucks that will net either a noticeable power increase or MPG increase, unless you find a 2 inch exhaust pipe prebent for 40 bucks, and know a friend with a welder. My reccomendation would be a tuneup, plugs, wires, o2 sensor, fuel filter, maybe suck some seafoam into the intake. but don't expect miracles.

Yes, you could.

If you have the owners manual, it will be in there, and thats the best info on it, with pictures even. On the front, there are two 19mm nuts on the bottom of the spring, lefty up, righty down, you have to do both or it won't work, gotta keep them even. on the rear there is 1 nut, don't recall how big, in the middle under the rear seat.

I hate to disagree with the Fox, but i'd reccomend using the flywheel with the engine you are running. As far as which is which, the outside of a EA-82 is a square edge, where the EA-81 very clearly had the corner machined off.

My friends Uncle got almost cut in half when a plane landing on his carrier cut the landing wire, half of him was in the catch net, and the other half was dangling over the side. He survived, and has had minimal long term effects, but let that be a lesson to you all. BE SAFE

Also, the Crawl ratio, is your vehicles ability to crawl slowly, which is very helpful to avoid loosing traction on hills or in mud. It also helps get your engine into the power band. Its all about the gearing. BTW, Phizinza, you were very close, the RX is 1.19:1 as you had said, but the GL 5mt has a low range of 1.59:1, the 4MT is 1.43:1

I don't know about Canada, but we didn't get the EJ20 in NA form in the US, we have the EJ18 and the EJ22, the EJ22 is prefered because of the better power over the EJ18, its also prefered over the EJ25 becase the EJ25 requires the use of a speed sensor to run properly, which is easy to hook up, but harder than the 2.2 swap. I've had 2 cars with the EJ22 swap, one i built and one Austin built, both have been really good, and reliable, as long as i didn't try and fiddle with them too much.

I cut and soldered one by one, so i'm pretty sure that they are all still good, and i'm 99% sure that my grounds and power feeds are good, which leaves me with the magic voodoo queen, and i am at her mercy.

Its not her car, it was one like it.