NoahDL88

The axles will have to be custom, but i think that the guy from MWEAxles should be able to do it for you with little or no extra cost. You'll need the standard EA-81 axle and then the turbo EA-82 inner cup, because the splines are different on that transmission stub shaft. You'll also need a custom drive shaft, either get the legacy one shortened and weld in the carrier bearing, or go with a one piece. As far as mounting the tranny, custom mounts should be as easy as fabbing up a crossmember, so i hope you have a welder, or have a friend with one.

The EJ22 from the Legacy, 90-94 runs well without the VSS, vehicle speed sensor, which is necessary to get the later cars to run right. basically, its easier to get an OBD I to run than an OBD II.

The car has OBD II, all cars made in/for the US have had it since 96, some even had it in 95, but not many. Your engine is trying to tell you somting, even if the code goes away, it should store a trouble code, and yes, it can very easily affect your gas milage. if its not running rough i would suspect the O2 sensor, the front, or upstream one. Get yourself down to the local Autozone, and get cletus to run your codes, he'll do it free, then you can go to the local (any other auto store) and get your parts there.

Subaru heaters have always been hotter than any other car i've been in, so thats normal. As far as varying heat, its either somthing to do with the blend door, which is either vacuume operated, which would indicate a leak, or it's electrically operated, which would mean a bad swtich, wiring or door unit. It could also be low coolant, in the 96 OB you have the 2.5, so as i'm sure you know the headgaskets are no good, so you may have lost coolant which is now affecting your heating.

I use the factory filters, but thats cause i'm persikity about those things, as for oil, i also use 10W-30 Castrol GTX or whatever synthetic blend/what ever Castrol is cheapest, the full synthetic is too expensive, and not necessary in a car thats 20 years old with 250k miles. Welcome to the board, feel free to start your won threads, and search on your own, chances are your questions have been asked before, so the answer is already there, so you don't have to wait for a responce.

Coming from Detroit, and working in the Auto industry, i can say without hesitation that they will be unhappy with the H3. The reasoning that my dad got a forester and not some domestic designed car was that he wanted a car to keep for 10-15 years, if your parents are gonna keep the car for longer than the warranty, you'll want to be buying a Japaneese car.

3-4 blocks seems fast for winter, but in Chile its Summer right now yeah? I'd also check your oil level, just to be sure, its 99% probably not this, but its worth the peace of mind. Also check the power steering fluid resovoir, if its low it may make woosh sounds only when cold, so you only notice them leaving the garage. I'd still vote for the heater core though, if you have a syrupy film on the inside of your windsheild it could be leaking too, which would certainly cause the burble sound.

I don't remember how far away Federal Way is from Lynnwood north of Seattle, but there is an excellent junk yard right there on 99/Aurora that usually has everything i ever need, but the newer stuff might be harder to find. AAron's auto wrecking, also in Seatte should have what you need.

What the green connector does is basically the same thing as taking off the vacuume hose off the distributor on an older model, its sets the timing to "base" timing. As far as it making a difference, it really depends on conditions, sometimes it made a difference on mine, some times it didn't. Just a thought though, IIRC, base timing on an SPFI is 20, not 18, should make the car feel more peppy.

The 2.2 is notorious for having the crank pulley coming loose and fracking up the crank snout, fix it asap. You don't want the pulley to come apart or come loose when you shift at 4-5000 rpm.

I had that same problem on a 74 Dodge Monaco i got at auction from Illinois I have no real help, Good luck though.

I was in Eastpointe, but i grew up in Kalamazoo, as far as Washington goes, i want to end up in Seattle, or north of town ish, but south of everett, but i know of a rather cute girl in olympia thats at college in Evergreen, so being on the south end may have its benifits. If i'm up in Sea-towne and you need help with your lift let me know.

Great, Now that i'm in a more repair-friendly environment i'm going to go through the car and do all the little things i was putting off cause of the snow and cold.

Its the flat flange, the one right off the header, flat bolts it is.

That was the plan, I won't be going up to Seattle until February at the earliest.

I will still be here in San Diego, so i'm out.

The "old" style are clutch pack style, not spring style.

That fluid dosn't look all to pretty either. Good luck with the Frame, and better luck in Afganistan, we'll be waiting right here when you get back.

Firegum, Check. Would you use the exhaust bolts with the springs, or avoid those and use a conventional bolt and nut?

either a block of wood, a hammer and some skill at keeping it level, or a 20 ton press. i don't remember exactly how i got mine in last time, but i remember at least a big hammer and a flat peice of metal was involved. Sorry about being as helpful as a screen door on a submarine.

I Have 2 ideas, and forgive me if they seem obvious, but its what the problem was with mine, 1. make sure that the thermostat is the right side up. 2. The thermostat could already be stuck open, happened to me with an aftermarket one, happened the first time it heated up, never got hot the rest of the summer, finally changed that one and had heat for the winter.

The front carrier is different, it has either more or less bolt holes that hold the ring to the kernel. I've been wheeling with an open for quite some time, got a LSD recently, and havn't really had much time to see if i like it. About a month ago i got a Lincoln locker from Jerry, gonna put that one in next week. Seems to me that pulling an axle is worth it if i get 2.5 wheel drive instead of 2 And as long as i can change it faster than Tex, i'll be good to go.

So my Borla header and my TWE "J" pipe leak where they come together, i have the thin metal gasket inbetween the two, but she still seems to leak, so bad that driving at night through the neighborhood is tricky, and there is absolutely no way to sneak back home by shutting it off a block from the house (auto) Anyone else have this problem? what can I do, can't pick up the ladies in a car that sounds like its ticking itself to death.

I've done the detroit to seattle 2 times, both ways, and every other time i blew a timing belt in Montana. this time i had a spare belt, spare car, and an EJ22 in the 88 and not the shoddy EA-82. If we didn't have to drag a trailer over the continental divide, we could have made it in 2 days, not 4. As for wheeling, heck yes, i'll be swapping in the "lincoln locker" some time this week or next, and i need to send out for 2 rear axles from MWE, one got pretty stiff and started making noise in, well michigan, and i got annoyed with it so i pulled the both of them in a rest stop at around 11pm. The axles, some wiring cleanup, and either getting the stock plate to fit, or going to the Boeing surplus store and getting a nice Titanium one, don't want to bash the oil pan on the new engine swap. Now i just have to figure out this exhaust leak, and everything will be fabulous.

Good deal. But for those that don't, If you keep refilling oil without replacing, the additives and waxes build up, and the crud that the oil picks up dosn't burn off with the oil, so it just increases its concentration. That and the acid from condensation builds up and eats at your engine from the inside out. I had a car like that, i didn't change the oil for 2 years, filters every three months though.