NoahDL88

I also have a Soobme rack, i can take some pics when it gets light out again. If i was to do it over, i'd probably get a Yakima or Thule rack bars and just build my own basket to attach.

I used to work as an automotive restraints/airbag engineer, so i'm a little bit picky when it comes to seatbelts. the only thing worse than a broke subie, is a broken person in a subie that could have been avoided.

Go with the rack, there great additions, i have one on my 88 DL, i also have the lift and big tires, so watch out, its a slippery slope. But it sure is a fun ride.

Both my cars are running like champs, one has a small, ok big exhaust leak, but the 88 made it from Detroit to San Diego like a champ, the EJ22 in it is a dream up hills, and the fuel economy was up around 35mpg, i was however drafting an OBS pulling a 5x8 trailer @ 55 mph the whole time though. Huzzah i say for running subies.

Just my two cents, But it seems to me that this "fix" will affect the proper airbag deployment, which can mean splat. of course if you are such a dumb@$$ to drive without your seatbelt i guess you deserve to go splat. sorry, that was .04 cents

You can get the car to run better, but you will never get oomph without spending money. a complete tuneup is a good place to start, as it was said, advance your timing a few degrees, base is 8 BTDC you might be able to go as high as 12, but your fuel economy will suffer, Pinging and detonation will kill the motor in a hurry, so don't let that happen. Keep in mind that you are starting with 80-90 horse power, so you will never get the car to feel "fast" unless you put some real money into it.

Thanks for the offer Eli Just got into San Diego, just in time to watch the ball drop, at least for pacific time.

We spent Last night in a nice motel 8, and i got a flat tire some time just before we stopped, so now we get to rummage through the trailer and the back of the car to find everything to change the tire. So far so good.

BTT for update in First Post.

If you have to pull Noah out, i'd get a better, (XT-6) clutch Sorry, inside joke, long story short, i owe Tex a clutch.

I just did a quick read of your post, but i would still like to give my .02 cents. 1. Hooks of any kind are bad, so are the factory loops. with a loop the strap can slip off, and the factory hooks arn't strong once you get big tires and are in big trouble. 2. I'd get the biggest strap you can afford. it will last longer and generally be better all around, 50,000 pounds will be plenty, you don't need a truck 18 wheeler strap though.

Subaru Transmissions? Thats about as definate as i can get right now.

They were not offered in the EA-82 5mt's if thats what your asking, but Tom is correct about the legacy's

I sipped my SSR's about 6 months after i got them, it was money well spent, the wet traction on and off road is well worth it. and the extra longevity is also a plus. I'd reccomend makeing sure that your fenders are clearanced though before you sipe them, as the metal bits like to pull out chunks of tire.

The EJ20G, or the domestic turbo, with one turbo, would be easier to retrofit into an RS, as the TT interferes with the master cylinder and the brake booster. If I was to swap in a turbo motor into a GC8 body, or a GF8 even, i'd stick with 3 of the USDM turbo engines. in no particular order. EJ22T EJ20T EJ25T The EJ22T is an older engine, but is arguably more robust, and can be stroked to larger displacements. Its found in early 90's legacys and stock W/O intercooler puts down 160/180 hp/Tq The EJ20T, found in the USDM WRX, 227/217 W/stock intertcooler. I believe this engine can also be stroked. The EJ25T is found in the STi, and all turboed non Impreza vehicles 2003+, although in non STi trim it generates 250/250 as opposed to the STi's 300/300. If it was my choice, i'd probably go with the EJ22T, add an intercooler and a complete exhaust and an aftermarket engine management system, which would probably net around 250-300 horse if done correctly. Honestly, your best bet would be to do some heavy searching over on Nasioc.com they are more able to answer your questions, however be sure to do your research first, or you will be flamed out of town.

What you might be able to do is to get the gear reduction hubs off of a Syncro, that would reverse the spin on the hub, so you wouldn't have to reverse the tranny output. it would definately be a custom one off application, but it might be worth looking into.

I've had a CV joint shake the wheel. it was so bad it was dry and rusting on the inside. If it were me, and i had the time, if it is the bearings, i'd do both sides, and do a once over on the brakes. Of course, Skip, you knew that.

Yeah, new ones are smaller. they had some issue with them at first, a small number of them leak, not that big of a deal, just check it every once in a while.

Searching is your friend. Yeah its been done, i've got 2 cars running that swap.

Try Mcbrat in the market place. He's also got a complete set attached to a wagon.

if you seperate the shifter, you should be able to do it, 4WD is at the rear of the transmission, and the low range is at the front, if you have a sperate lever for both, you could have high and low in both 2 and 4.

Still working on that, but i believe foresters are a possibility, and some others.

Talked with my service writer, apparantly there not too hard to find.

You just so happen to be located in subie heaven. for "used" stuff I would also reccomend Aaron's auto wrecking. For older stuff, i'd reccomend the PAP in Lynnwood. For new stuff, Jamie works well.

Old habits for old engines, gotta change your habits with the changes in the engines.