NoahDL88

That's your problem

Transmission fluid will leak out and you won't go anywhere.

there appears to be a crack in your headlight mounting bracket, if its broken it could be your problem. close the hood and see if they are both even, could be the bumper got pulled out?

Strut clearance will be your biggest issue, because of that wheel offset is important, I don't know if it varies between years and models, but that is something you need to be aware of. I tried with the 27 inch SSR's and they rubbed, I think any tire that is less aggressive but similarly sized will work, as long as its 27" or smaller. BFG all-terrains are a good compromise, Geolander makes a good setup as well that should clear your struts.

it sounds like your issue isn't with your axles but the fact that when your tires tuck in they are hitting the body and keeping the wheel from turning, ramping up the snapping torque real fast.

You'll want to use the smallest vacuum line you can to limit flow, if it flows too much you run the risk of hydrolocking the engine. Just make sure the engine is good and warm before you get started and let it sit for 20 minutes after the bottle is empty. Don't be afraid of all the smoke, that is normal.

for finding compression on the #1, pull the plug and cover the hole with your finger, when you feel it building pressure that is your compression stroke, bring the piston all the way up and you're there. Have a friend crank the engine and check for spark just to be sure you are getting a spark.

Your 20W-50 isn't helping your economy either, unless its burning a great deal of oil, or leaking like the Exxon Valdez you really should be running a thinner oil, more in tune with what it was designed to run with. I'd expect you to pick up 2-3 mpg by switching back to 10W-30

Try the retrofit FAQ section, the going price is about 200-300 for a plug and play harness, providing you provide the harness. There is still a lot of work that needs to be done for a swap to work, but most of your questions will be covered in the FAQ in the retrofit forum.

I find it hard to imagine that the pushrods would break if there wasn't anything else wrong with the engine, did the valves seize up at all?

Nope, the old Subies use staked caps not snap ring caps.

32/36 DGEV, the EV is electric choke, you could get water choke or manual, but electric is what most people go for. Redline sells the kit with an adapter plate, so if you go new that's where I'd go, and where I went with mine.

Check the fuse and the relays, swap out one of the relays with a known good one. work your way from the battery to the pump measuring for 12.7 V, where it stops there is your issue.

As I understand it that is correct.

EA-81's are a dime a dozen, replace, don't repair, or you'll have a headache later, Hate to say I told you so, but freezing water is, freezing.

Trust me after that photo, you do The best current photo I can find, Had to change it, OPSEC and all, but yes, drinking Pacifico, in Mexico on Corona tables and chairs.

I'm not saying it won't work, but it your engine will wear at a more rapid rate than if you were running the correct oil. I'd rather fix the problem than fix a symptom.

No, you don't. Your gut and hearsay are not nearly as dependable as what the nice slide-rule waving engineers in Gunma determined was best for your engine. The thicker the oil the more resistant it is to flow, the increase in oil pressure is not necessarily a good thing. The additive packages form a larger percentage of the lubricant total the larger the spread, 5-20 VS 5-40, and as such you give up lubricity for the ability to cross more viscosities.

You wouldn't get water in the intake from the freeze plug directly, but the plug being out will put all the coolant into your oil, and if you get enough crank case pressure, it could push it into your PVC system and into your intake.

Going to a thicker oil increases wear on startup, which increases the clearances of the parts that are already making noise. I'd deal with the noise and stick with what the good book tells ya.

1. either the motor was bad when you got it and running it without coolant didn't show any problems because, well it won't leak what it doesn't have. 2. The motor really was good, and against all conventional wisdom you ran it without it's required liquids and destroyed a perfectly good engine. I'm going with #1, start tearing it down, it might be simple, but we've had a pretty cold winter, so the case could have cracked if there was any water in it.

Pull the plugs and put oil in the cylinders, see if it helps? Larger breaker bar?

It is better to lift the whole car. Most of the kits come with 3 inch blocks in the center and 4 inches in the corners, Its a good compromise between getting extra clearance in the center, and not eating axles.

Realistically you might be able to run 1 inch difference from the outside to the inside, but I'd be willing to give up an inch of ground clearance for axle longevity. I'd rather be driving then wrenching.

Those issues however are eating axles like candy, yum yum. Lift it right the first time.