NoahDL88

there is a reference signal that the computer needs altered, its a 5V signal, if its on, you need to turn it off, if its off, you need to turn it on. varies by model and year.

as i suspected, i have a 96 with the 2.2 and the auto, i plan on swapping in the standard shift asap. that hesitation is pretty standard for the auto's, not much you can do. unless you arn't afraid to spend money, i have a borla header and a TWE "J" pipe, dosn't do much for low end, but above 4k, watch out.

70, as that is the highest speed limit in my area. If you've gone faster we don't want to know about it, falls under the same umbrella as street racing and tresspassing when you offroad.

Still need year and engine to help focus our collective subie knowledge

I've used the old axle, put both threaded sections on the same castle nut, and used the old axle as a slide hammer to pull the new one through.

your winters may be wider, which would also contribute to the drop.

There are 2 things that i would worry about, besides the offsed issues. the center hole, this is used to help support the load of the car, if its too big it won't support as well, and if its too small, it won't fit at all. Make sure it clears the brakes, the subie brakes are bigger than most.

there is nothing you can do to a NA car's intake that alone will get you more than 2-5 horsepower. Depending on what year and engine, it might be an issue with the knock sensor, i undid the bolt that holds the rear of the Y pipe to the tab that hangs down from the tranny, that helped quite a bit, at least made the sensor happier.

Sorry, it dosn't say distributor anywhere on your page.

Have you asked the guys at the counter? they might be able to help you find SL or any later standard. Castrol GTX should fit the bill nicely, and if your uncomfortable about using an oil, you can always run it by your dealer before you use it.

It occurs to me that maybe AA is a distributor for 88Hatchmonster, but if he's not, that text looks pretty verbatim to me.

Your adapter plate pictures look really familiar, its like i've seen them somewhere else on the internet. http://mroseusa.com/noname2.html http://alliedarmament.homestead.com/EAEJ.html Tisk tisk.

Swampers are the only way to fly. We've got to be the only people that get "the smallest super swamper they make" <---- What i tell everyone else when they ask.

If it were me, i'd replace anything thats removable back there, seals, pullies, tensioners and whatnot. the water pump is a good idea, but the seals on the oil pump are also a good idea, the pump itself rarely goes bad. I did everything but a idler pully once, and in Forsythe, Montana guess what let go on the highway.

If it says 3.7 and LSD its a clutch type If it says 3.9 and VLSD its a Viscous type.

Someone up in Idaho made a tonneau cover for his RX, looked cool, but apparantly it leaked quite a bit, but down in AZ i guess you don't have to worry.

Dirty little secret, that roll pin punch is the right size to slip into the hole at the end of the axle, hit the punch with the hammer and you'll never have to worry about marring threads again.

It would be my impression that 90% of the people running in the old gen forum need to add oil at least once in 3000 miles, i know mine drank oil. 3000k interval, and i always check my dipstick at every gas fillup. I use OEM filters and Castrol GTX 10W-30 I'd stay away from the 5W-40's and the 5W-30's with that much spread you loose a lot of oil per quart to stabilizers.

2 our of 3 of Noah's Subies agree, Red Top Optimas are great. They also don't take in crap water when you sink them and die on you at in opportune moments.

Don't ever let Corky and Tex alone with it if you go away for the weekend.

They did the same thing as the 2.5 procedure on my 2.2 worked like a champ, that was about 15k miles ago.

I grew up in Kalamazoo, Welcome to the board.

I have, but i have a snorkle, even at 25 years old the original door seals kept the water out.

Either a chiltons or a FSM will tell you what wires are the ones that go to the dash to control the gauges. as far as the stock EA-81 everything on the rear of the dash will tell you what goes where, so you can just cut and splice into the harness there.

if i'm in the car, and the engines on, the seatbelt is on, and if there are others in the car, i won't move until there on too.