NoahDL88

Well, i'm still nowhere near done, but putting the engine in took about an hour and a half once the adapter plate got here. wiring was about 20 hours and fit and finish wiring i suspect will take another 10-15 hours. I'll be working on the car all day, if you want special picture requests give me a call 231-580 Sixty two Four Niner

Yo, 86, where in Ohio are you, i have the rear bearing tool that you speak of, if you're not too far from detroit maybe we could meet half way or somthin. it might still be cheaper to buy it though, 25 bucks isn't bad.

And if i ever find myself out west with some wire strippers and a soldering pen i'll be happy to wire up both your cars.

John came through. the adapter plate is real pretty and the engine bolted up to the transmission like buttah. As far as wiring, i can't stress enough, get the kenedy engineering kit www.kennedyeng.com its worth every peny of the 24 bucks, and had i not had corrosion build up on the cam or crank sensor connector, when i put the engine in it would have started right up.

not without some custom work

the EA-82 carb intake will fit on the EA-81, but some clearancing will be necessary.

there is a threaded hole on the drivers side in the back, it is for the full sized spare, and if you have the original post and cap nut a swamper will fit with this system. I'll post a pic tomorrow if i can find the camera

Turbo's came with the LSD as an option, it'll say LSD on the rear cover, if both wheels spin the same way its an LSD. In your 89 hatch, if its a stick you have the 3.90 if'n its an auto its a 3.70

If you can't find them at your dealer, try Carter Subaru in Seattle, they have everything. after calling around for some pretty common stuff in Michigan, one call to Carter, and i had everything i needed.

Your front axles will be fine. NOBODY LIKES A SCREAMER Try to find some pictures of Qman's brat, that has a real nice setup underneath for the rear diff in the front.

this beauty is a Soobme, TWB fabrications bumper. the expanded steel is greeat, i only have two problems with it, i wish the headlight hoops bent back with the body, and i wish it had better mounts for the turn signals. the hoops are no big deal, and some zip ties took care of the signals.

basically, all the yellow wires become power wires, some ignition on, and some batt+, the third connector on the engine harness, the 5x2 with all the black wires, that becomes the ground, keeping the bw and by together and the br and the b together. when done there should be 4 grounds. I'll see about some pictures once its light out.

cool, i'm not so worried anymore, i have spark, and she runs. might even be able to take her on the road tomorrow, but there is still a lot of buttoning up to do, sensors, ignition switching and all that fun stuff. I'll definately get the check engine LED hooked up eventually, but i want to take her round the block first.

I have no idea, just messed around with the crank and cam plugs, in and out, must have knocked off some corrosion and now she runs. too quiet though, without the tach and the doors closed, can't tell if she's running

Never mind, she cranks, starts and runs. X 10 Huzzah

Ok, so i got the engine in the car, and i can make it crank on the new EJ circuit, and the fuel pump cycles. So now my problem is this, I have no spark, i have voltage to the coil, and all the tests for the ignitor are good. On the 3rd engine connector, the smaller one, i have all those wires going to a ground, and the wires from the other side also go to a ground, so between them there are 4 grounds. I'm pretty sure that i have all the grounds and Batt+ that i need, but i'm clearly missing somthing important. Anyone smarter than me out there?

Ditto, greatest trick ever. If you need the clutch alignment tool let me know, i have like an infinity of those, 5 bucks shipped.

this thread's 2 years old, move along, nothing to see here.

it should pull air through the radiator, so when your hand is behind it, between the fan and the engine, it should be blowing on it. Unless, the fan is on the front, then it should push, but you should still feel it on your hand. no matter, either way, the fan should push the air from the front of the car towards the rear. was that too much answer for a simple question?

Awesome, i'll have to try that tomorrow, hopefully it points me in the right direction. I'm sure its a ground or power problem, everything worked like a champ when i took the motor out of the car. it was the DD for over a year.

Piston rings serve to keep oil out of the combustion chamber, and to act as a seal to make compression possible. the top two rings are solid metal and seal the combustion chamber between the piston and the cylinder, when the car gets older the rings loose their tension, and their sealing ability, which is why your compression goes down. the lower ring is the oil control ring, its 2 small thin rings that are seperated by a spacer, when this gets older oil is more likely to pass by the rings and be burnt off. another posibility when burning oil could be the valve seals, i wouldn't overlook them.

you may not make the front so low, you really would screw your approach angle with that design.

You gotta pay to play

Hmm, not a bad idea, how does one pull the codes on the OBD 1 subies?

The factory filter will filter out smaller particles then the KN, so for longevity the OEM would be best. I bench flowed the air box and intake on a flowbench, you get 3 cfm tops, which on a good day might get you 1 hp. My opinion, don't waste your money. the reason everyone claims that they got so much hp from an air filter, is because they don't want to feel like the idiot who just spent 70 bucks on somthing that didn't do anything. just my .04