NoahDL88

That usually happens after 6 years. Check out the FAQ at the top of the Offroad section, its got some great info, informative links, and most of the pictures still work.

If the light always gets power it should work just fine. You could always add a fused wire straight from the battery and have the ground nice and short near the plug itself. mount it in your center console.

If you take nothing else QFT Get it fixed right, adding refigerant will not fix the problem, it will only fix the symptom. Get it sniffed, have the leak fixed and then have it sucked down and refilled or any moisture that gets in from having the lines open will toast your compressor.

The angle is the same for both, really no matter how tall you go, the angle remains the same. Don't lift the corners if you don't lift the center bits as well, there are a bunch of guys that make some good kits, listed in the Offroad FAQ, for most of us it's been money well spent, and someone has already done all the hard work for you.

Essentially yes, but I don't want a distributor, I'm going for maximum waterproofness.

Sorry, I'll spot you the 10 extra HP, so you want the one that goes on the bottom of the window? And I'd recommend not using nukka again unless you want to go to banned camp.

Anyone running the EJ ignition system on an EJ'd car? I'm planning a swap, but I'm not going to use the EJ fuel system, but would like the slightly more waterproof nature of the coil pack instead of a disty. So, I'm pretty sure the EJ ignition will still work without a signal from the gas tank or the injectors, but realistically, how many sensors can I cut out and still have a functional ignition system? I know I can go with the Ford EDIS, but would rather stay Subie so I can get parts easier.

Why? Not why do you want one, style is umm, a personal preference, but if you think you need one you greatly over estimate the power of that poor little EA-82 in your car.

Ok, my bad, although lengthening the control arms is still a bad idea. Caster angle is pretty important, if you go too far in either direction handling goes downhill pretty fast.

Is there a step difference between the XT-6 and the normal EA-82 flywheel? You could get the best of both worlds, a heavy flywheel, which will help keep the big tires spinning, and the holding power of the XT-6. I too had holding issues with the EA-82 clutch in my EJ swap, but it only manifested itself if I was pulling someone or really going crazy in deep mud.

If you move the bottoms out you will pull your axles apart, which is not good, unless you lengthen the axles. If you account for the angle when you make the drop blocks and offset your bottom from your top so it is still directly below you won't have any camber issues.

You really don't need to do this, infact it will screw up your alignment, I wouldn't even consider this. I tried something like this on a lifted rig because of a 5 lug swap. In hindsight I should have swapped out the center section of the front axles, live and learn.

Make sure your Disty is bolted down ad check under your cap for moisture, wear and corrosion. Since your alternator checks out it could be your disty. Try pumping some gas into a glass jar, it could be that you have water in your fuel.

I don't want to protect you , just needed a steady paycheck. I can't help you out, suck in training, but if you make it out to the Subaru show I can help you there

I believe it is in spec according to Subaru if it leaks a Qt or less every 1000 miles, I wouldn't worry, just check every fill up, Most older cars with high mileage leak something, I had an 88 that went through a Qt every 250 miles.

you'll have to swap the center section from an EA-82, provided its on an EA-82, the EJ axles are too wide

1: Offroad FAQ 2: Offorad FAQ 3: Offroad FAQ

Its either adjustment on the threaded rod on the outside or your tranny guy goobered something on the inside. Either way me thinks he's got some work ahead of him. I personally never seen the low range/4WD gears go bad.

Perhaps because he's from Reykjavík there was a loss in translation At the top of the offroad forum there is a FAQ that will answer a lot of your questions, read it over and ask us any specific questions you have.

It is my general practice to not let any AWD car be towed with any wheels on the ground, period. I have turned tow truck drivers away who said it wouldn't be a problem.

Do it, report back

If you give me $6,000 I'll churn one out for you, that would be the cost of modifying an off the shelf unit and buying a 3 axis mill to convert it to the suby spline count. If you give me 4,000 I'll buy you a Toyota and install an off the shelf one and you'll have 2000 to spend on gas For 3,000 I'll find you a hatch, install a lift and put tires on it, swap in a welded rear diff and you'll have 3000 dollars for gas. Why spend the time on a selectable locker when swapping out a rear halfshaft takes maybe 20-30 minutes and is free, the welding of the spider gears is usually the cost of a 12 pack for your friend with a welder. Most people here that have been around the block a time or two do one of three things. Leave it open, its free Weld it, up to 25 bucks if you have to bribe a friend with beer Buy a Toyota All three are vastly cheaper than getting a locker that costs more than the car for a platform that realistically is not nearly as capable as a solid axle rig with "real" sized offroad tires.

Drop parts symmetrically, swap out short bolts for long and then add the spacers, it will make re-aligning the sub-frame and other parts easier. If you drop one side down before the other you will twist the sub frame and make it hard to line up not only the first side, but the other side will be way out of wack.

20-w50 is also not the best choice, most of your wear is on startup, and trying to pump that super thick oil is just making it worse, If you've fixed your leaks go back to 10-w30.

the stock lines should be long enough.