NoahDL88

Why yes it is. The rear one apparantly holds air, but i havn't had the chance to fool around with that, still working on getting it moving on its own power. Since they both will be EJ22, i'm thinking EJ Army for the licence plates, # 1, 2, and 3. could be fun

Both BYB/Ozified Lifts, Never had any problems.

And boy did i get stuck And Dirty But with some digging, and a Jeep We got out Now i know that next time i'll need more momentum I was resting on the rear diff, and i was easily able to put a hand underneath the rear tires. oh well, next time we won't wait for a jeep, we'll bring another subie.

If you are talking about the actual wiring, sure i'll take pictures, but if you are talking about the print out that Kennedy has, no dice, nothing personal but they spent the last 7 years and lots of money getting a system that would be CARB legal, so i feel un easy about giving away that information for free. If you're not talking to me at all never mind.

Its my understanding that unless you "substantially improve" a product you cannot get around the patent. Here is my suggestion, add a tab at the top so that the dog bone can be mounted, cause that i don't think has been addresssed

don't be discouraged if it is really hard to break it loose, with a steel plug and an aluminum cover, they seem to like to corrode together.

Worst case, roll down the windows and turn on the heater, i've had to do that a few times, but it usually works like a champ.

Even if they did do you really want hondar seats in your car? Well if they look and feel good i might too.

Congrats Snowman As far as the wiring, try the adapter harness writeup from Kennedy adapters, its worth every penny of 22 bucks. I got mine almost all the way ready to go, just need a cherry picker and a few minor parts. ie, clutch and adapter plate. but as far as the wiring, i'm about 75% done.

The Ram Engines guys know what there doing Using 1600 Heads on a 1800 dosn't sound like a good idea, any gain you'd get from the higher compression would be off set by the smaller valves I don't know if they even fit, and if they did i believe they use a different intake, which is smaller than the 1800. My reccomendation, ie, what i did with mine. Milled heads .030, any more and the intake dosn't fit EA-82 pistons Oversized valves with 3 angle valve job Port and polished the heads Delta Cam Re curved Distributor Weber 32/36 carb, but in retrospect the SPFI would have worked better

Like safety belts and Airbags, DRL's are an essential part of the safety package, too many accidents occur at dusk and dawn, when most people think they don't need their lights. over the life of the vehicle you are replacing the bulbs an extra 3 times, so is 40 bucks worth the extra safety over 10 years, i sure think so. Safety, worth every penny, i'd rather have rug burn from a seatbelt then a windshield necklace, but then again, i'd rather be seen so i don't have rugburn.

Thats how its done!!

Congrats, and the D/R tranny is teh hotness, got one in the DL, best mod i ever made, well besides the lift and swampers

Well Zap, seeing as your driving a Toy now do you really have any room to talk? As far as the brown wagon in question, who shall remain nameless, it is a nice trailer queen. and if the owner is too scared to off road his car, maybe a "liberation" is in order. Just kidding, both you guys, i'm just jealous it'll be a year before i can come and play.

Ironically its the best runner i have; the 96's exhaust broke right in front of the second cat, so its real loud the 91 dosn't run cause the wiring harness is on its way to the 88 the 88 dosn't run cause there's no engine in it, for now. The flat yellow needs some work now, its fading and pretty thin in some places, i'm actually tempted to paint the whole car flat black, but who knows, its pretty fun with the yellow.

Yellow is great, but i'd reccomend a snorkle, get 10 times as many commments on the snorkle as i do on the yellow, but the yellow dosn't hurt. One word of caution, the coppers like yellow, then again it could be the sweet power of the 2.2

If you got 2k to spend, on top of your T-case mod, use these http://www.killeraxles.com/html/used_unimog_axles.html Mucho gearing, mucho strenth, and an extra 3 inches on what ever you have for a lift, might try Pinzgauer Axles, lighter weight, and still way to robust and strong to break with an EA-J anything

when i took apart an engine from my parts car, 240k on the ticker, cross hatch still visible, and every time my professor was trying to tell us all the "good" designs of a good engine, the EA-81 had every single atribute. good start for subaru.BTW at 13000 RPM the EA-81/82 has the same FPS piston speed as a chevy 350 @ 4000 RPM

Techinally the thermal transfer properties of R-134a are not as efficient as R-12, that same system that iced your vents with R-134a would technically ice them more with R-12

If you plan on keeping the car long enough to do some head work,its worth it to get the valves ground. benifits are, longer life, better compression, better oil control- cause if you have them out, i'm sure you're putting on new valve seals.

Make sure the wheel is on the ground, that makes it easier, or it did for me on one of my subies, on the other i'm also having a heck of a time. afraid i'm gonna throw my back out.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but for every GL owner there are 50 WRX owners, and SubieSport is having a hard time with those numbers. Tell you what though, if you can get everyone in the old school forum to buy a subscription, that might give me enough money to get a first issue together, but the biggest issue is to get advertisers, were too old for SOA, Rallitek dosn't make many parts for us, which leaves us with..... yeah. I'd be more than happy to start a magazine for the old school croud, it would certainly be a dream come true combining my two passions, but we don't have the numbers for it.

If you don't plan on doing much, don't do much to the US block. get an exhaust, maybe upgrade the turbo, clean up the intake, and then get a computer that is optimized to the whole system, fairly easy, but if it were me, i'd wait till the warranty is over, and then rage it.

Thats where you upgrade to the XT-6 clutch, or even the legacy clutch, but if you go legacy its reccomended that you machine the flywheel, or else it may not catch.

short answer, try www.nasioc.com they'll know more than we do long answer, you already have the turbo, it will be easier and cheaper to build power with the engine you have, unless the "JDM" is the most important factor. Try www.rallitek.com they'll give you more power than you know what to do with. OTOH, you should be able to get a JDM front cut here, talk with DR. RX he knows the hookups.