Gravityman

OOh the joys of trying to engineer a part to fit on a 20 year old car! :-\ I am not actually changing how the belt setup is, I am just buying all new tensioners, tensioner pulleys and idler pulleys. If you havent noticed, when you listen to your car on the front end of the block you can hear metal grinding, its the sound of old worn out bearing that are robbing you engine of power. That is what I am replacing. Once I get all the parts I will post it in the hyperbalic thread. This is what the gears in the dry sump pump looks like. In an N/A car you would have either 2 sets of gears that would pull oil from the oil pan and pump it to the oil tank. Then one gear that would draw oil from the tank run it through a filter and then into the engine. For the turbo's I would add another set of gears one to scavange oil from the turbos and one that would pump to the oil cooler then through another oil filter and then "Y" out to the turbos. So I guess that I would need a 5 stage pump. Next to figure out how to plump the thing to the engine.

I was actually thinking about that after I started drawing the pic. I am going to be running my exhaust right where the pump is. Do you think that the pump being driven by the camshaft will cause too much drag on one side? I am removing the disty and the stock oil pump from the timing belt which would help free up some drag. I am just nervous that with the added horse power the belts might start slipping. I am installing an entirly new timing belt pulley setup so every thing will be fresh not 20 years old.

So anyway this is another idea I was throwing around but I am scared that it might create to much drag on the camshaft. Normally they are mounted on the cam pulley. I am going to be running the MS EDIS so I would not need my disty anymore, I have been wondering what to do with the large freakish hole without a disty.

<-- That for racing, reduce the chance of losing oil due oil slosh and the lack of oil in the oil pan due to the increased amount of oil required to run 2 turbos and oil coolers. The oil does not sit in the bottom of the engine where it retains the heat of the motor, instead it is stored outside of the engine allowing it to cool better which will cool the engine more efficiantly. Ok here this is a good bit of info and a little of what I am trying to say; Dry sump systems have several important advantages over wet sumps: Because a dry sump does not need to have an oil pan big enough to hold the oil under the engine, the main mass of the engine can be placed lower in the vehicle. This helps lower the center of gravity and can also help aerodynamics (by allowing a lower hoodline). The oil capacity of a dry sump can be as big as you want. The tank holding the oil can be placed anywhere on the vehicle. In a wet sump, turning, braking and acceleration can cause the oil to pool on one side of the engine. This sloshing can dip the crankshaft into the oil as it turns or uncover the pump's pick-up tube. Excess oil around the crankshaft in a wet sump can get on the shaft and cut horsepower. Some people claim improvements of as much as 15 horsepower by switching to a dry sump. The disadvantage of the dry sump is the increased weight, complexity and cost from the extra pump and the tank -- but that's a small price to pay for such big benefits! Who knows mabe I will drop the engine an inch or 2. Just a thought, but who knows???

Hey Subaru Freaks. Here is a question for the guru's. Has anyone ever tried or even looked at running a dry sump oil pump setup on their subaru engine whether it be an EA, ER, EJ, EZ...whatever? I know that they are normally used on track, drag and some rally. They also eliminate the huge oil pump pan and replace it with a shorter pan (which I will fabricate). I have not purchased a new oil pump for the ER27 twin turbo :burnout:build. I could just use the stock oil pump that I have and clean it up but I want something more reliable (not saying that the oil pump is unreliable) for the build that I am doing. I am going to need a set of hoses running to both turbos and oil coolers. I know the sumps are very expensive new but ebay has tons for less then $300. I already have the oil lines, I would just need fittings. I have seen these run directly off the cams in american blocks. I was maybe thinking about removing and modifing the cybrid power steering pump motor to couple to the dry sump pump. That would remove the power steering pump and the oil pump from the engine, leaving the alternator and water pump attached to the rotating assembly. I would of course leave the stock oil pump in its location but just remove the oil pump gears. I am just learning about how dry sump oil pumps work but I have a pretty good understanding on how they are put together. Do worry about listing basic information about them if you got it, every little bit of info help me and others. Thanks!

Here is an update. Well I finally got all of my porting tools and started practicing and testing specific areas that I felt required some attention to. First before I jump in too deep I will show you the before. You can see that the HLA bump is a very big protrusion into the port and would restrict the incoming air and cause major turbulance. Also the casting marks in to bottom of the valley. One other part I was looking at fixing is the bottom lower right of the port you can see where the metal was pushed in due to allow a socket to reach around the spark plug. I first started with the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster bump which is quite intrusive. I wanted to cut along this plane to see how much I had to work with when I port it. I cut quite a bit of material out of the bump and still had plenty of metal between the HLA housing and the port. It actually smoothed out better then I thought it would. With the unported side next to it you can really see how much of a difference this will make for flow. Next I radiused the valve seat. I was again suprised about how much I material I could remove to gain a very straight flow into the combustion chamber. Take a look at the difference between the uncut side compaired to the ported side, big difference! This area actually has a lot of material to work with before you get anywhere near the water table. Next I worked on the side of the port where the spark plug bump is. There is very little material to work with here so I flattened out the bump as much as possible and then left it alone. You can see this area in the red circle. The yellow is the valve seat and the green is the HLA bump. Now you can compare the before and end of the porting work and you should see how much of a difference a little bit of porting could go a long way! Here is a side by side of the after and before for comparison reasons.

Sorry about the slight neglect, I will make that cut but I am going to do that to a different part of the head after I finish practicing my porting.

Thanks buddy!

Dont say that, what do you think the useless open diff i am pulling out of the XT6 is going to be used for? I understand this but I thought it was mainly the other fully enclosed pumpkin style LSD that are more readly avalible. I figured that this style VLSD was less common, hence everyone thought it was open even though the signs pointed to LSD. Well there was quite a bit of fluid, they were pretty much caked in it. I have never rebuilt one of these before so I couldnt tell you if it is actually the correct amount but it certenly seems like it should be fine. If I have any problems with it I will do like Hondasucks said and pickup some from the dealership. All I know is what the guy that I purchased it from said, "an Impreza". From the picture that was listed on ebay it had stub axles from a datsun with the 4 axle studs. I assume that someone did the swap from the impreza into the datsun 510 and then sold the diff.

Yea, I am not totally sure what the liquid is but is smells like honey and runs like cold molasses. They were already pretty well coated so I didnt feel the need to recoat them... and I had no clue where to find the grease.

I am guessing that it probably doesnt look like this one but very similar seeing that this is a rare diff.

ceramic coatings are not ment to be very thick to work effectivly. As far as detination goes, this is only one of the means I am using to reduce the chance of predet. I am cryotreating the pistons which significantly increases the pistons chance to survive a predet attack. I am also going to be adding piston oil squirters with will lower the temperature of the piston at a more then normal rate. I have a few other angles to throw at predet but those are topsecret right now! My machinist has not worked on an ER27 before but has been a machinist for over 20 years. With the amount of work and quality he puts out I have no doubt in his abilities. This will be the first attempt by anyone to resleeve an EA or ER block so I am crossing my fingers and praying!!!

Update on the build. I just got back from the machine shop with some pictures. First of is a pic of cylinder 4, before I bought the engine it appearantly had water sitting in the cylinder. The water caused massive corrosion and pitting on the interior wall. My machinist will be completly boring out the fixed iron insert and will be manufacturing a new sleeve to put in its place. Here is a pic of the damage. Next something that I suspect no one on this or any forum has seen... The ER27 Twin Turbo ceramic coated and moly coated pistons. These are actually brand new EA82 turbo pistons, if you didnt know that already. I think they are a thing of beauty!!! I am currently having the cylinder heads flow tested and then I will start porting the heads. Once I finish porting the heads they will be flow checked again. Once I figure out the newly ported flow numbers I will send off for my camshaft to get reground and have the max valve lift set to where the highest flow rate was recorded. Hope this makes sense, I have been up for about 26 hours now, about to go to sleep.

:lol: HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! :lol: Wow sorry about the little trick but I didnt just dupe all of you but I freaked out also. Belive it or not, the proof is in the pudding...eerr I mean diff. When I received the diff yesterday I swore up and down that it was a OPEN diff but both axles turned the same direction. So to live up to my standard (if you dont already know that I like to take anything and everything apart just for fun), yep I pulled the diff apart to see for sure that it was indeed a Viscous Coupled LSD. Supposedly this is a very rare LSD and they only appeared in impreza's for a short period of time. The couplers are held in the middle of the ring gear. This is the housing and sideplate which houses the couplers. A closer look at the coupler disks and rings. Now the disks installed into the housing. Everything reassembled. I spent about an hour and a half trying to figure out the best way to reinstall the coupler disks by trial and error seeing how no one online wants to makeup a writeup on this issue. (wait I just did:-\ ). So I am flippin happy about this awsome find and that it didnt turn out to be an OPEN dud. :clap: :headbang: Sorry guys! I got you, and you call yourself experts:rolleyes: , just kidding.

Are you sure? This is a pain! I just ordered it off of Ebay for $188 shipped. A little high for even an LSD.

Can anyone tell me whether or not this is a R160 LSD or open diff. FYI both axle shafts spin the same direction. Is that because of rust or dirt build-up between the spider gears?

Well this is just theory, If you keep the thickness of the combustion chamber wall thicker then .39 inches when you port it then you should have no problem. My reasoning is due to the thickness of the turbo piston, its thickness is .39". I still think the best way would be to just throw a Head Gasket spacer in or turbo pistons (didnt you say you have some?) and be done with it. Remove the guess work.

You suck! How much! What car is that for? I want pics installed.

The turbo pistons I measured are EA82 turbo pistons. I have 2 sets, a used set in perfect condition and a brand new set I bought from subaru. DONT CUT THEM!!! The EA82 N/A pistons are the exact same as the ER27's N/A pistons. Truthfully I would suggest to just stick with the EA82 N/A pistons or convert to EA82 turbo pistons. If you are going to do anything to your head gasket or take your head off, it will only take about 2 hours more to swap the pistons. You can turbo charge an N/A engine but you only need to add a little boost to get a good gain. N/A turbo'd engines have good low end response due to the higher compression and good high end with the boost. Just make sure you have a good intercooler on the engine and that you run 93 octane all the time to prevent knock. afterthough. If you want you can have a company build a head gasket spacer like you said. I bought my copper head gasket from www.flatoutgaskets.com, I bet they can build you a custom spacer for well under $150. look at this, you can run even a 9.5-1 compression ratio on pump gas with great results.

Just to let you know again you are a bad influance or I am just very easy. Here is another part of the deconstruction but not the head. I am kind of sad about this but I guess whatever, It is done. I CUT MY N/A PISTON IN HALF !!#*^#%. Call me crazy and make me stop this madness! I didn't think this would go beyond the cylinder heads. Anyway... here it is. Here is the comparison of the Turbo piston (I WILL NOT CUT A TURBO PISTON, that is blasphemy!) I sketched this picture with near perfect accuracy .001+/- in. This shows the turbo piston material below the dish to be 25/64ths of an inch or .39in. The N/A piston only has a material thickness of .32in max. Basically, DONT dish the N/A pistons. There is not enough material there to remove and safely run a N/A let alone a turbocharged engine. SORRY!:-\ Here is another pic I thought was cool, just thought I would add it.

Here it is, the cut you wanted. It looks like the exhaust port floats in the coolant passage. Here is the exhaust outlet side of the cut which is the side I think you wanted to see. Please let me know if this is what you wanted to see or if you need me to take another picture. Here is the intake inlet side of the cut. FYI you are a very bad influance!

Very nice engine, but what the heck are you doing to the roof? convertable brat? (mixed feelings)

You suck dude!!! I need to get a full set of gauges for the BRAT plus some. I would need almost 2 sets of DEFI. Tach, Speedo, 3 boost (one for each turbo prior to the throttle to moniter them seperatly and one for total manifold pressure), 2 EGT, 2 O2, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volt, fuel pressure. Thats 14 total gauges, did I miss something? Do I fall in to the "Call me Crazy" catigory? When I do this I plan on running Just the Tach, Speedo, total boost, both O2, oil temp, oil press, water temp and voltage showing and the rest consealed for race day and tuning. I really hate the look of tons of gauges strung all over the cabin, I think it looks really tacky! I think I have a plan of action though. I would love to get a LCD gauge display that would show most of the displays. Actually I do have the Megaview that should provide most of these functions but I do like the accuracy of a gauge. What do you think. Beyond crazy, more like retarded!

OK buddy you got it. Make sure that you check back tonight, I should have it done no later then 2 hours.

Ok so just to verify I am going to cut on the green line. Do you want me to move it up toward the intake port inlet or down toward the exhaust port outlet. If so how much? Sorry, I want to make sure I get what you want.