Gravityman

It is a viscious LSD from a 92 SVX.

I want to buy a R160 LSD for my XT6 diff. The one I am looking at buying looks a little different then other LSDs I have seen in an EA ER diff. Please let me know if it is a drop in swap or if it will even fit. It will be going into my 3.90. Please let me know ASAP This is the one i am looking at buying. This Is what our the lsds look like.

Make sure you read up on doing something like this. If you remove to much in a place that cant handle it you might destroy your head/engine. That being said, I dont see why it wouldnt work.

You are looking at "about" 1.2 cubic inches of material differance between the N/A pistons and the turbo piston, turbo pistons with the lesser of the two of course.

I think i am following you, take one of the pics i posted and photoshop or draw a line on where you want a cut.

I brought up cryotreating and he looked at me like :-\ and I was like . I explained it to him and he was like :eek: . Now he wants every thing treated :lol:

Yep! I have already spent more then the cost of an factory turbocharged roo and I am not even done yet. :eek: :eek: If you really want to know what you need to do buy a book called Maximum Boost. It is the bible of turbocharging. Read it and then see if you really want to build a turbocharged engine.

They are in Decatur, IL. Not to far, I will have to check on shipping.

When you say HPC I assume you mean high performane coating or hi-per-coat.. Yes I am haveing the cylinder heads and ports ceramic coated along with the piston crowns and valves.

nope thats totally disassembled, cleaned prior to service. You might pay more in shipping then anything. I need to find someone within a 300 mile vecinity to do it. I think they will disassemble the parts but not sure, probably very expensive

I am actually sending them off to be cryotreated. I am still looking around for who I want to do it but I think I will be going with a company called 300 below. They actually quoted me $700 to do my entire engine and trans, 2 turbos and my diff. Pretty snazzy! I think that is their military discount.

Well here it is... CUT #4 !!! This one was really neat minus my arm getting really tired!! Look hard you might miss the cut. Well If you need any help figureing this one out I cut cylinder #3's ports directly down the casting line. I am glad to say that there is plenty of metal between the siameased exhaust ports, about .3+ inches in some areas. Man I wish you guys could see these in person. This is so cool. It kinda looks like voltron...eerrr ROOTRON Here is another pic looking down into the exhaust ports. Any ideas on the next cut? I have a few in mind but I would like to keep the cuts I have already completed intact. Any measurements that you would like me to make, just let me know.

I was wondering about the valve seats and if i could grind some of the pearch that it sits on away as long as I dont remove the entire pearch. I am going to show my machinest and see how much I can cut from it. I want to make the area between the valve seat and valve guide as smooth as possible and I will be grinding the guides down a alot. Something like this.

Yea, I see what you are talking about. That where the metal angled eerr where the coolant passage was closing. Once i am finished with all the cuts I would like to go around all the pieces and clean up any extra flashing.

I am talking about cracking the head between the valves. I know there are quite a few people that have had this problem and adding insult to injury turbocharging wont make the situation any better. This is why I am cryotreating the head and ceramic coating it, it should keep the head cooler and better disipate the heat. I would like to increase the rev limit but I first need to find a set of stiffer valve springs. About the boost I plan to start at about 7psi and go from there, I would like to see about 14psi, shouldnt be a problem with the build i am doing.

Well the results on cut number 3 are in! The cut was made exactly between cylinders 3 & 5. One thing that was pretty neat to find out on this cut is how thick the metal is between the closest part of the cylinders(where the exhaust and intake ports are the closest to each other. Also look at how far off the casting is where the 2 halves meet. I bet you won't be able to guess where my next cut will be...or if you even care. I will try to get the 4th cut done tomorrow.

This is a very good point but I have 2 things to say about this. Firstly, When you port the head you will not be able to totally remove the bump in the port but decrease the size. By doing this you will still get the venturi effect with a larger capability of flow. It probably is true that the bumps were created for a venturi effect which would benefit a carbed or N/A engine which relies on this effect. A carbed engine would most likely see the most benefit of the venturi effect, where a N/A FI engine would see a little less. A turbocharged or supercharged would probably have a decrease in number because any interferance in the air path of the blower will only increase heat (except intercooler) and cause resistance which will reduce pressure. Secondly, If you look at the new subaru heads you will see that they are no protrusions into the intake or exhaust paths, the only things are the bend, valves and splitter. I would imagine that if the engineers would have had their way, unlimited budget and time the heads would have looked a lot different, so this is where i am going to have to side with Phizinza. The XTs werent very expensive so not a whole lot after the engineering, casting and machining would be put into them. EDIT. One more thing I thought of. If you look at the differences in diameter between the intake manifold runners, the intake ports and the cylinders (the whole picture), you will see that the intake ports will actually act as a venturi for the entire system. The boost will create volume/density and the ports will act to keep the air velocity high.

Here is a better look on the hla bump on the port side. There are quite a few places that can be ground down to straiten out the ports.

Cut number three complete. Dont try to cut through valve seats, they suck! zzz ALL DAY LONG!!! Well as I took a long ponder on as to where I should cut I changed my original plan. I instead cut at an angle accross the crack with the cut starting at the edge of one side of the crack. By doing this it would let me actually dissect the crack and find out how far it goes. This cut was actually a little harder to keep lined up then the first one because I had to start the cut on a surface that was far away from all the other metal. Here is a picture of the 2 halfs of the cut. You can see the piece between the 2 halves which is the crack that i removed. I took my dremel and cut below the lowest point of the crack that I could see so I could remove the entire cracked piece and to verify how deep the crack runs. Where you see the crack turn sharply to the right is where I intentionally forced it to crack the rest of the way down. Here is a picture of the crack after it was removed. There are 2 shades on the metal; the lighter part is the part that I forced to break and darker part is the length of the original crack. This pic shows you how deep the crack actually went. I would imagine that this crack could go down to the water line but fortunatly it didnt. After the dissection of the piece I have noticed that there is actually quite a bit of material that can be removed around the valve guides. I am getting excited to see all my other cuts. It seems that there may be more potential in this head then I originally thought!

UUMMMM.... ... I guess your probably right. But I think I have to look at it as something that has to be done to take one for the team. If someone doesnt do it then we will never know. I personally fell better about porting my heads knowing how much meat there is rather then going in blindly, removing too much metal and then totally destroying my head. If I can save a head or 2 by totally destroying 1, I think I can sleep with myself at night, and hopefully you will thank me.

+1 This crap is great!!!

Well the first pics are in!!! It wasnt as hard as i first thought and very fun in a sore arm kinda' way. Now that I have cut from top to bottom on the head I can now cut long ways with less resistance. Here is something you dont see everyday.! The cutaway-- This is cylinder #1's intake and exhaust ports One of the reasons I wanted to do this was to see how far(deep) the cracks between the intake and exhause valves actually are. I know a lot of people junk these heads for the cracks but what if we can weld them and reuse them. In 10 years when these cars are around 30 years old we will be mad at our younger self for just tossing out a set of heads that could have been easily fixed. So here are my plans for the next cut.

Whats up Subaru Freaks! I have a problem. I pulled my head from the ER27 and found a small crack in the valve. Give me your input as to if it is ok(within limits) and still drivable or I should just junk them? Normal...? - - - - - - This thread is actually dedicated to the full deconstruction of my cracked ER27 cylinder head. I am in the midst of fully cutting the head in half in many different sections to get a full visual of how much meat there actually is in an ER27s exhaust and intake valve ports. This information will be applied to my porting job for the Twin Turbo and how far I can safely and reliably go with them. By doing I hope to gain information that has been missing and has remained a mystery about our cylinder heads. I do not know how much of this will apply to an EA82 cylinder head but I would imagine that a substantial amount of info could be applied to your cylinder heads as well. I want anyone and everyones input on this that has input. So what I am going to do is post a see-through FSM pic. If you desire any specific part of then cylinder head to be cut I will try my hardest to do it. Just take the original picture and put a red line through where you would like me to try to cut and a discription if needed and then repost it to this thread. Mind you I am using brut force to cut these heads (HACKSAW) so I wont be cutting the head in half long ways. Praying for a band saw for my birthday!!! I am cutting the Right Hand head cyl's 1, 3, 5 I belive, please correct. Here is my first cut.

I am having the pistons and rods cryotreated and then getting the pistons ceramic coated and moly coated. Forged would be nice but I cant see forking out $900 for pistons where my weaker link would be in the head.

I am sorry, dont get me wrong. Chiltons is great for every day maintenance and some major repairs but If you plan on a rebuild or swap the FSM is the only way to go. I have a chiltons, haynes and FSM, I have gone all those roughts but the FSM give so much more depth into the car.