Len Dawg

You got an idea atleast... I think most jump off and start pulling stuff apart... I would look for vacuum leaks other than the bowls are probably cruddy. And i would suppose it could have been halfway in between warmed up and it thought it was kinda ready, like telling your arm to pick up the coffee cup but spill it instead lol!! It's not ready for winter yet!

I would do a total do over starting with checking the belt alignment with distributor pulled. Line up the center III and verify cam pulley marks are as such Drivers up passenger down. Then bring it around to zero on the timing marks to the pointer and drop the distributor back in and that will set approx mechanical timing and then connect #1 plug to the cap and that will be the starting point towards success... going off what somebody else scribbed is not always good place to start.. they could have used that for a mark for When they pulled it out.. which is indeed ttc for cylinder #1 but not always full proof.. who knows if it even the right distributor/gearing.. Fun fact- after gapping and installing spark plugs cap and rotor... I couldn't get the stupid check engine light to start flashing with the green connectors plugged... it finally came on and started flashing after driving for 10mins, I stopped jumped out connected my timing light and timed it 20deg, disconnected unplugged went to drive away spit sputtered and stalled out... turns out I crossed #1&#4 and aMAziNgLy it idled but drivability was a major issue... No matter how Badd rump roast we think we are weird shitt happens!! Lol!!

This should help ya be sure to thank Miles!!

Assuming it was just a timing belt replacment without anything else being done but maybe spark plugs and wire... I think you either A. Didn't rotate your crank 360 degrees after putting on the driver side belt before putting on the passenger side belt, B. your firing order is outta wack, Passenger side 1-3 Drivers side 2-4 C. Pulled the distributor and are trying to have it align with 1 cylinder, which you cannot it's in nowhere land.. unless you rotate another 360deg. D. Didn't use the center of the 3 timing marks that are all by themselves when installing timing belts Last but not least . Perhaps somebody fiddled with the idle adjustment so when it goes to static timing with the connectors I has no idle assist...

I cranked mine all the way back and locked it and unplugged the motor... I flip my shoulder belt... then when my friend Carole wants me to test drive her 92 legacy because its making weird noises I get wadded up because her's actually works F kk yeeeah!!! I never could figure it out...

I totally concur with the wrapped/bent HUB... I did all 4 and with an issue that I was having before shimming the shakes and the whoo whoo whoo's then with a plague of broken ball joints and tires becoming out of round on all 4 because i would rotate wheels. I replaced,ball joints, shocks,struts,bearings,axles,cones,tires,rotors, pads, drums,and shoes and with in probably 6months I got the shimmy and shakes AgAiN at hwy speed. I jacked up the front and inspected the wheels as they are turning in 1st gear. From the front looking at the side there was no real wobble... then I looked from the side and the drivers hub was waouwaouwaou... I pulled the hub and replaced it with a another from the scrap yard. And it looks a hell of alot better and it doesn't really vibrate but rather makes a pulsating noise.. which I think has to do more with the rotor being jacked... now. And this goes W aaay back 12 yrs ago in the making when I was getting pushed out of my lane by another driver in the early am hrs in the rain I chucked a curb. The rim does not appear bent, yet I replaced all that horse shitt from hell to find out it was my hub after all not dragging brakes or anything else not that I would have eventually have to change anything out after 300,000+ Miles and really I missed one in your face clue.... the washer on the cone did not leave centered impression.

Top hat - mine does it. Even news ones right side only

If it's intermittent ticking tapping comes and goes, we all have it, TOD Tick of Death. If it truly goes away after warm up and does not come back until the next warm up then I would say probably could be... but highly doubtful.

You covered alot of ground doing research thanks for doing that! when you purge the air from the cooling system park on a steep incline like a hill, 4wheel up onto something or jack up the front end when idling to get the neck of the radiator higher than the heater core which sits slightly higher in the dashboard and traps air stick a screw driver or use your hand to up the idle a little and hold it whike pumping the hose. use only distilled water not garden hose or sink/tap because it boils the minerals which clogs eVeRyThInG and use only mixed Green coolant or make your own... which I myself have mistakenly bought full strength NEED TO ADD water... and the funny thing of it is I filled up the reservoir THEN read the label, about 3 weeks later pop the cap to scoope things out and I got splooge/grayish brown crud around the neck. other than that yeah definetly could be a head gasket. here's a link to my story->

KYB replacment strut...original springs... I don't know for the 3dr hatch whereas I got a 93 Loyale wagon

I got kyb and they actually seem shorter on my wagon by 1/2 inch or more because the new rubber isolators were too big. So had to reuse the old ones..

If it turns over but no spark at plug I would check the make sure the rotor is not stuck, i.e. screw fell out. If it does not turn over lights, camera nothing I would check the small wire going to starter as well the alternator of all things might be shot or not connected. Those are the 2 things electrical I had a problem with.. Aside from failing to connect the MAF where it would temporarily start but die. Where as Dave suggested ign to on position STOP before starting you should hear towards the back a hmmm.. then a click from under the hood that your fuel pump pressurized when the fuel filter has filled up. Congratulations to 300,000 mile club!! 1993 Loyale 4wd 5spd 311,183mi

Yep did it myself it was hard to pin point exactly where it was considering I listened via screw driver on every component.. whereas I mention in detail earlier in the thread. I'll post to Facebook have a listen https://m.facebook.com/groups/438010226261479?view=permalink&id=2347500618645754

Alrighty then... So I think I figured it out...kinda sorta in a round about way.. it's been gone for while now... I couldn't leave everybody in suspense. I checked all and repaired all vacuum connections including the pcv... I was beginning to think it's the a/c unit leaking at the Schrader valves which they are but of all things... I changed the idler belt which was a gator type and it was still there.. then I stretched wwwaaay out there and changed the oil filter and it got quieter and eventually went away... thank Gaudd!! What I really think it was is the box store gave me the wrong belt and it began wearing a tooth/groove in the pulleys ... and even though I put on the old factory belt it was still whining until it broke it's self back in. I got a new v belt and all has returned to normal. Live and learn V belt is what is really needed... Yeeeay!!

Gots ta buy new cone washers, they are soft metal so once you tighten the washer hump side out towards the castle nut it digs onto the cone. No matter what, after you reached torqe spec keep going until you can slot the pin. If you back it off ya basically killed the cone. And now would be a good time to scope out those lower ball joints... You might get away with re-using it once but after that ya need a new one. I've been down this road too many times. The one's at the wrecking yard are no good. If your talking about the rears that's a whole diffrent story, I got lucky and just pulled the whole assembly including trailing arm and the next time I splooge grease and re-sealed it. I'm sure other sub-addict's will be along shortly..

Yep headed to orileys later to pick up a club,just because I've read 3 stolen over the past year... I'm done hearing of this He it returns..

I am on the upper marker light but no so much the bottom turn signal I would suppose trying your idea would be an option... other than eBay might just have to be your last resort.

Perhaps the hose came off the charcoal canister.... in other words bowl vents fumes

Yeah if anything nothing should be coming out those holes now we know which ones they are... I was thinking it was the elbow... I'd would suspect if it's coming out there the head is cracked/warped I spotted a light up the hole on the backside and seen that only it goes in and would bottom out. Could be deteriorated. If you can getaway with patching the leak then put those bolts back in you very well could get away with it until you find another head or another decent motor..And that man if it works you got into the Top10 at 3 for the best Subaru MacGyver of all time!! That could very well be where air is getting sucked back in when it cools down. Keep us posted

Definetly do not add anything other than coolant, I would say because you plugged the holes with the bolts you are not getting complete circulation, I would be curious to know what exactly are they? And if you only changed the driver side head gasket why not the passenger side? My head gasket blew out on that side and was pushing exhaust gasses into the cooling system. Just cruising across town will allow exhaust gasses into the system with out showing much of a temperature change because it can purge off into resivor. Get on the highway with sustained 3,000 rpm if ya got a 5spd and you will see the temperature begin to rise. That would definetly indicate a blown head gasket. And/or just maybe maaaybe you still have air bubbles if ya didn't jack the front up w aaay higher than the heater core while running the heat and giving if a couple grand for about 10 mins at the least...

I definitely notice the difference at speed on the highway it acts like it has a glitch like hesitation and it only gets worse the long I delay in replacing it... after being annoyed long enough I install replacement cel turns off and it smooth sailing

Mallet, sandpaper,bondo,= YouTube is your friend

Perhaps it in the lighting wire if they truly are tied together with the 4wd.. I had a wire get shaved in the shifter boot at the chassis on my 93 Loyale 4wd Wgn Goodtimes!

Sumbitch !!

Goodtimes! Rock'n Roll