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Len Dawg

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Everything posted by Len Dawg

  1. Not sure direct from Subaru... this is what I ended up with... 155.00 for the radiator 22.00 for oem subaru thermostat 2.00 for thermostat gasket... yA can probably find a better deal for the radiator tho... i bought mine via a subaru shop..i was not much impressed by the quality radiator I got.. sold to me as new but looks like a re-core.. some of the fins were bent and painted over rust.. CSF Radiator so far it has held up.. I let the manufacturer know through their face no book page so far i got no reply... https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1003055443105370&id=100002027723629&set=o.129092457127268&source=48
  2. Installed Front crank seal, also called a Timing Seal Cover? Lol! Never heard of it.. and a brand new pcv valve, Mickey mouse gasket, o ring, shaft seal... i tried my old supposed working oil pump when removed... because the one i took out had the pressed belt guide fall off..but the TOD was! Everywhere!... i elected to scavenge the gear from the old one and put the one I took out back in.. not as much shaft end play I may or may not put the o2 sensor in.. got's ta wash the pipes of oil.. next up luxury items... rear passenger window switch, power door lock, stereo...
  3. Dude! I forgot to close my post! The junkyard Turdiator was the problem with heat no heat fluctuating temp so the purchase of a new SUBARU oem Thermostat and radiator... temp is normal again! Sits at constant 1/4 and barely above going up hill.. Thanks again to the predecessors for the help!
  4. Could be you are low on coolant, hopfully other than that do yourself a favor... get SUBARU oem thermostat and new radiator.. if it was never change before.. or you could be having a head gasket failing.. open radiator cap and look for air bubbles ;( not that hard of a job to do.. I did it last October my fan kicks a little above 1/4 #kinda easy way to be sure# take off belt driven fan.. via lay on your back under the front with a screw driver wedged between a nut and stem of fan bring with you a 10 millimeter wrench.. hook up alternator belt only if ya want start it up and wait for your electric fan to kicks on.. Other than that check the forms of head gasket I had a similar issue with a junkyard turdadiator.. not saying my episode could be the same as yours After doing my head gaskets... There is a wealth of info and help here.. Below is a link to my episode.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155547-my-compression-test-resultsea82/
  5. I dont know what side of won't start you are on like it is dead no power to ignition, have lights but won't turn over or turns over but won't start? So...something may not be plugged in or hose is cracked/broke,vaccum leak..fuel filter is clogged, fuel pump is dying? when you get in next time turn the ignition on but don't start listen for a humming noise from the rear then click under the hood and pump should turn off.. the filter is full and you have pressure.. I would go for the thermosensors first, one goes to the thermostat housing and there is a wire that goes there and gets bolted down too... Next would be ignition timing... Are you a new owner? Did you do any maintainace? Change timing belts? Thermostat? Wiring? Starter? Could be the starter is getting hot... ignotion switch is breaking down.. try turning a little harder,check fuses, as well the fusible links under the hood on the coolant resivor... I'm sure there's more to look at.. let us know how it goes. Last but not least.. sounds stupid but it happened to me.. my battery terminals gave me problems like that, If they are smashed and trashed they are.not.making positive contact so check those out too..
  6. Intresting delima.. swing arm bushing? I couldn't imagine the clutch slipping would do that much shaking...
  7. Frik'n love my 1993 Subaru Loyale 4wd Stwgn.. beside seeing the regular ratt tattle stuff falling apart, that was funny as hell to see the check engine light flashing at the end... i could never get mine to illumination at idle.. I have to carry my socket wrench and timing light and take it out for a drive for about 10 mins before it would come on.. ha ha ha
  8. I don't hear it... if anything I would probably check the drive line, disengage 4wd drive try to shake it..
  9. I had alot of problem's like that too.. i think it has to do with the right seal... winter months always got me.. I think water was getting into mine... multiple times.. I haven't had that problem for at least a couple years now thank gaudd! I always assembled it back together with the washer and cone.. and if your cone is thrashed it's best to get another one.. even from the Wrecking yard. One extra tip, is once you achieve 145lbs as Dee 2 stated don't back it up to put the cotter pin in.. keep going to the next opening.
  10. A roll of that little hose that carry coolant here there and everywhere,clamps\bands, radiator cap, thermostat and gasket as well intake manifold gaskets,bring some fuses, 3spd fan relay wiper blades, different gauges of wire, clutch and throttle cables, chiltons manual,distributor and rotor, bearing grease and seals !! pulley bolt !! mainly that for sure! because I had mine back out and lucky me I pulled over right away when power breaks and steering got tight before my dummy lights came on... and it amazingly stayed in place!
  11. oh yeah I forgot to mention new driver side headlamp driver side ball joint intake boot and whule was at the wrecking yard getting those parts headlamp intake boot found some brrrand new brake shoes!woohoo!
  12. 1993 loyale wagon 4wd ea 82 Passenger front New Balljoint and New Axle.. got parts from orielys $import direct$..59.00 for the axle 14.00 for the balljoint. . everything went as planned.. one hick up ..the axle to the output shaft, the pin hole didn't line up.. oldtimer submehanic that did my clutch gave me a pointer a few years ago... if it don't go in easy you'll have to flip it 180 degrees because they are offset just a smige; ) reman radiator new oem thermostat and hoses Goodtimes! 276,730 fun luving miles and still rolling..
  13. I second Dave T.. plus another thing is the rubber needs time to form..as stated by lots of mechanics which mine never stopped leaking ha ha ha ! I'm headed in the direction of putting sealer on next time.
  14. Oh ya.. and as Gloyale stated... in another thread... There is a tiny rubber plug in the backing plate. remove it and stick a skinny screwdriver straight in to release the cam that holds the self adjuster. of course also the axle nut needs to be removed too.
  15. Hard to find but on the Back side of the drum there is a small dust cover ya need to pop out... i think it's towards the front side toward the motor...and use a small screw driver push in to release the drum pads in order to pull the drum off... inherently there will be a Ridge on the Drum the shoes will get stuck on if ya don't release them...
  16. Whatever ya do don't drive in 4wd on dry pavement just so ya know I've read that a million times lol !.. and i would follow Dave T suggestions... I've always had the thud when disengaging.. sometimes more than others..
  17. And if ya go in to do the water pump,timing belts,may as well do the crank and camshaft seals and oil pump it's all behind the timing belts and if ya get lost putting on the timing belts we are here to help there should be a thread to search in here..
  18. I had the same issue... got mine from napa sanded all the black paint probably 400 grit? I dont remember..it fit alot more easier..
  19. I had the same issue... got mine from napa sanded all the black paint probably 400 grit? I dont remember..it fit alot more easier..
  20. Should becoming from the intake manifold at the where it meet the cylinder head and or that little boochy bobber copper colored elbow ... mine blew the intake manifold gasket there and rolled back into the number 4 cylinder... I think that hole is for when we lift the motor out? My spark plug looked like it came from an aquarium, so I know exactally what your talking about lol ! and yeah for some reason I too am running into the oversized image problem
  21. I would sure hope so it's as easy to change the shoes... there are a couple things I would check before anything.. Jack it up from the rear axle differential it's 4wd and check to see if the bearings are wore out.. slightly rock it holding one hand at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock then then do the same at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock if there is a lot of play you may want to look into at the least repack the outer bearing because the inside are a little more hard to do without a Arbor press... i just went and got a whole/arm axle assembly from the Wrecking yard.. another way to tell is if it makes more noise turning one direction and minimal to none in the other. We are a pretty helpful group and we love out Subaru's... "Nothing is more worse than a Dead End road, but if it's a Suby you have options!" Aaahyeeeeee!
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