Len Dawg

I would use it... but would have gone with factory head gaskets & intake. Here's my experience as I aligned to compare old with new there is a tab that wraps around where the fel-pro failed and allowed exhaust to escape into the cooling system. Keeps us posted on how goes some of us like to help

Perhaps it is flooding? fuel+moisture+ fog... plug gap, timing,corroded coil wire, what all happened before, ie change anything electrical? Starter alternator cap rotor plug wires, is shooting gas in the carb before starting? Floats could be stuck...

Thank Gaudd! Great to see a finished thread!

I bet the screw fell out of the rotor mine did before.... aside from that my lack if preventative maint got the best of me and I broke a timing belt 3 houses down lol... Totally agree with General Disorder had both happen at one time or another... I'd also check/clean battery connection terminals just because...

Fuel pump will Shut off when pressurized... turn on ignition but don't start it!! should be mmmm,click.

Could be gummed up inside? try rubbing alcohol and shaking it up...

All stock SPFI probably been there since the assembly line. Upon further research the 90 deg coolant line that comes from heater hose to the back of the body is a pre-heater and is goes wherever who knows.. lol Never had this issue before but I had to fix that hose from leaking with or without a 90deg bend..from a scrap piece in the front and since it was bent/kinked and and it slowly developed a whistle and it had 10 mins of my life to spare to fix i and purged and I purged 3x's and it still whistling. It almost sounds like I got air trapped in the ac/unit... mainly because on a cold start ovenite i hear sspsss... spsppss.. pss... sspsss... until the thermostat begins to open. I won't be mad if it's the water pump, I should replace that anyways... cheap after market stuff only last about 5yrs aanyway, even though I'm not reading hot and I have heat..

All is quiet until the thermostat begins to open... then it is intermittent. If I DO NOT use a screwdriver to listen to those various components I checked. It surely sounds like an the fuel injector/vac leak but... I'd suppose it could be the water pump because it is about 5yrs old and the bearing could be reverberating through the cooling system via once the thermostat opens. Kinda weird my other pump let me know via temp gauge not this way. I'll know more next week. Stay tuned

Dude!! When I shift gears from a stop light people on the sidewalk move a side, because the whistle' is strikingly similar to The good bad and the ugly except at a high pitch whistle.weEeEeEEeee !! And you fill in the wuha wuah wauua 1st weEeEeEEeee -wuha wuah wauua 2nd weEeEeEEeee -wuha wuah wauua 3rd weEeEeEEeee And then it sounds like a tea kettle/deer whistle

I used a screw driver methodology I checked at higher rpm, when it is detectable.. alternator... sssckkggg A/C unit .....eeeeeeeeee Pwr Strng.....sssckkggg Thermo Hsng...eeeeeeee EGR Valve ....eeeeeeee Intk Mnfld... eeeeeeee Oil fill cap ... sssckkggg Radiator ... sssckkggg Bell housing... sssckkggg SPFI.... ssshhhhh Air filter box... ssshhhh I checked these same places at idle and nothing... even though few far and in between at idle there will be a harmonic whoo oho oho hoouu.. then it stops

AAAAAHHHHHH!!! What happened? Am I soon to be doomed to the same fate?? I isolated mine to 4 places.. and only those places.. they all have the same brain slicing frequency!!! Via Screw Driver 1. Thermostat housing 2. Intake manifold 3 A/C Compressor 4. EGR Valve Speak to me from the past!! Upon cold start it is not immediately detectable until a minimum of 2min. Most times it's a constant whistling, while intermittently it will not. Which is amazing! I can only say it resembles close to a deer whistle on the highway and the sound track to The Good Bad and The Ugly while shifting through the gears. I will speculate to say it's probably my water pump even though listening by ear the bearing don't sound abnormal and it really doesnt have much play on the shaft and it's not weeping, Temp remains in its usual spot goes up then goes down, Heat/Defrost works well. All hoses are hot and there is circulation. All this seems to have happened with in 3 weeks of substitution the 90deg coolant tube at the back of the Port injector to the heater hose. Which I have replaced recently with a molded 90 deg. So either.. I still have a massive Air Pocket and or one of those items mentioned above. Or who's Fricking knows the thermostat is vibrating? IT IS NOT.. pulleys, idler pulley, TB tensioner pulley, power steering, alternator, wheel bearing, etc

Lol! 92% could have air trapped in various pockets too... pretty much got get the front wwwaaay up above the heater core with the radiator cap off to purge the air out.

By chance did you put the thermostat in upside down? Other than that wire could have broke... try cleaning the connections then splooge some dialect grease in plugs. Other than that mist everyone will say it sits well below half and just above C

Looks like it sat for a long long time by the square markings... I would soak a small USED piece of scotch brite pad in new oil and clean a little.

Wheel bearing.. turning right/left is the key. I would hit the local parking lot and jack up the front to do the 12-6 9-3 o'clock check, pretty sure they didn't replace the cone and it's loose... Hell I can almost bet they didn't repack or replace the bearing seals .. without looking at paper work. Kinda weird the mount bolts were missing..

I second that!!!

I would suppose scooping out the rod to the lever would be next. There may/may not be a swivel type of connector that snaps onto the rod and holds it in place that the road connects to lever via a loop hole. Yeah don't know why the wires become disconnected.. I had made sure everything moving was waaaay out if reach.

Replaced all 4 struts1st x and timing belts...3rdx in 12+ yrs 1993 Loyale 4wd Wgn Goodtimes!!

So in the end.. i would say they were definetly original to the car the the factory sticker 92-10?? I got a used set front and rear 126,000 miles and replaced the top hat's. Kinda weird and can't find any info when i turn the wheel while on stands it will full lock to the left but to the right at the end of rotation there is resistance and it will not lock there appears to be nothing stretching cables brake lines i chaulk it up to being maybe the cv joint and I still got the popping noise STILL at the right front when accelerating from a stop. But over all... I no longer have the shimmy and shakes broken ball joint syndrome follow by the boom,BAM!!ruree..euree.. when i cannont avoid hitting Potland holes lol Goodtimes man!

My wire frayed in the shifter boot after somebody before me messed around with it... other than that straight as an arrow on the ground SAME tires and pressure ? Does the 4wd illuminate off and on? Do you hear a ptssssh when you engage/disengage? I be looking at all the vacuum lines to the canister passenger side.

Only one way to know first check fuses, then go in and look at it.. I never had any problems with the rear doors per say.. but when installing speakers in the driver rear the plug had mysteriously started to separate the connection...

====Weak push on connector negative at starter motor was the problem. Was most likely ready to fall off ==== exactly what I was going to say.. normal driving like any other day and then bam! Went back out to start and power everything but the starter I was lucky to have found it on a dark and freezing cold night! I was Ssstrrooking out!

We always check timing when changing anything with timing, it's just the right thing to do..Distributor timing will affect idle speed for sure too advanced it will idle higher too retarded it will idle lower. And as well the way i see it...sometimes even with a timing light we may not make the mark to factory specifications due to carbon build up on valves and piston heads and which in turn decreases the combustion chamber size i.e after I did my head gaskets I didn't get all the carbon off because I was in a pinch and there was alot so by setting to factory for a starting point I'm pinging because I'm firing early at factory settings because the the size has become smaller so I need to compensate by retarding at the distributor... and it becomes a drivability issue of watching temp, power and listening for pinging.... some pinging is normal but constant is not. I'm with Dave.. I had a idler pulley die, never noticed the whistle or whine but over period of 3-4 days it started screaming i thought it was the water pump bearing but nope same area though it's the one that is hard to get to below the alternator...

I am a little bit... but not so much. Since the head gasket job a couple yrs back. And replacing the stock rad with a supposedly new CSF RAD and factory Oem thermostat. Think I need to dial back the timing a smidge to stop the pinging. Get close to the red zone but it always drops back on the other side after climbing longass hills.. here is a complaint I left for CSF them on Facebook that I never got a reply lol! https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1003055443105370&id=100002027723629&set=o.129092457127268&_rdr

I would re check the timing at the belts again... all should be good if ya do it by the book...