Len Dawg

I seconded the o2 sensor...

Mass air flow plugged in? Is the rotor slipping?

Battery terminals, alternator

Funny thing you mention that... last night driving after work I was thinking to myself that my steering I pretty dammed good but kinda weird that I drive straight but when I need to correct it sticks in that small adjustment...none the less... for your adjusments here is a link from our board... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141719-ea82-manual-steering-rack-slack-adjuster/ The experience I have from my other car-1970 Pontiac Tempest-I had the floaty and it was alot!! When I first got it... when you make the steering gear adjustment make them very small! I figured it was so much play that i needed to adjust alot... but! When i did and went for a test drive.. it practically locked!! Very small adjustments sir!

I would replace it,

Nice catch!

I would say it's a bearing... just by the description turning tells a tale... by turning pressure is applied and the bearing will squawk/growl/grind in repetition... when you turn the other way it is still noticeable but not as much.. should be your left rear if you turn right and it sqwaks.. I never took the bearings out.. there is an inner and outter bearing.. i just splooge some grease into the outter put it back together and all is good..

Is it carburetor or port? Check you spark plug wires.. I had them come off before.. runs like a turd unless we got all 4 connected and going to the proper location ha ha ha and if ya do the timing make sure to disconnect the green plugs..

Dude! Got's everything but the jump seats ! Cool!

I liked it when I added some Risoline and about 6 weeks later my aftermarket electric gauge took the spins!! needle spazzed between -0 to 50 psi in rapid motion at all rpms until it no longer worked.. best way to make sure oil pump is working is to leave the dummy light hooked up. Turn on accel.. oil should light up /start .. if light goes out on panel.. ---> Working <--- although having a gauge makes for great conversation on how many oil leaks and where the leaks are... i no longer leak but still consume about a quarter of a quart every 2 weeks instead of a quart every 3 days.. just a side note... sometimes the front Crank seal blows out and leaks down off the pump that makes it look like it either the pump or pan gasket that's leaking it's hard to get a p/n for the pump oil rings because there are so many distributors... and if ya do the Mickey mouse and O-ring ya may as well do the oil pump seal too... good luck and have fun! Yea should really do everything up there while your there..Engine Oil Pump Gasket Kit BECK/ARNLEY 039-6320 fits 85-91 Subaru XT 1.8L-H4..Dayco SK0103 Timing Seal Kit fit Subaru Loyale 90-94 XT 85-87 DL 85-89 GL NA...NEW Subaru DL GL Loyale XT RX Engine Timing Set Gates TCK299 I have yet to changes tensioner pulleys, I just cleaned them up .. I sure hope this don't deter ya from thinking ya have a oil pump problem LOL! If ya do all this your good to go for another Hundred Million Miles of Great Fun Loving Subaru Adventures!

I would check the break caliper... yA may have lost a clip that holds the pads in place..

I'm sure it is so long as the stem of the oil sump is not hitting the bottom... I scraped mine a couple times.. that's what happens when i decide to go offroading the day after repairs... skid plate 4 bolts super easy its on there now that's for sure.. Looks like alot got smashed off the bottom lol !! Are ya atleast alright? Does the clock work now?

Hell with it!! I'm goin to fabricate tomorrow... I'm cutting the center in half and glue/screw them to the outside pieces and use only 2 maybe 4 screws to secure per half to the back covers. I agree with both points of view open for splooge ability for flexibility during the summer months, as well protecting from Tooo much water when rains up here in the Pacific Northwest like today.. axillary belts gave a squeek today

Right on... we knew all along that by watching McGiver we could make anything work... it may not be oem or show car quality but hey! That Badd rump roast! Ha ha ha!

My belt broke nothing happened, don't get confused when you put the belts on.. line up the center of III on the fly wheel align the driverside cam dot upwards but give it a smige before because when ya let the tensioner go it will maybe over shoot it, rotate till ya get to the center of III driverside cam dot should pointing down at the other mark. Then align the passenger side cam dot up...release tensioner... rotate entire system until the flywheel is the center of the III and driverside should be up and passenger side down... connect the green plugs driverside by fuel filter and set your timing.. good to go...

Ooooo!!

Possible brake parking dragging, did you recently change rims from stock steelies to spoke... because i know that when I bought some they fit slightly tight over the brake caliper with out noticing.. and i got that same result like something was binding and I went nowhere... I'm only bringing this up because if you look at the rim on the face of it there is a slight flat spot on the contour and another style is flat... Other than that.. If your subaru is a 4wd model there could be a problem with it binding... jack up the rear spin one wheel the other should go the opposite direction... I'm sure there is more to look at...

I'm with dave! Drive it... ea82 we all have tick of death, mine's had it or 9yrs that I've owned it replace oil pump gaskets Mickey mouse ring replace oil pump additives motor honey,Risoline,10w40 10w30,40w 30w, marvel mystery oil nothing will make it go away... somedays all I hear is the fan, other days driving down the road I am imagining everything wading up into a ball under the valve cover... not yet.. I don't think it ever will..

Mine fell out once... next time I do a tune-up I am replacing that screw with a Allen wrench set screw and a little thread locker! that way I know it's something else other than that! Ha ha ha,

It may not be a blower motor it could just be the 3 speed resistor... i found mine under the glove box on my 93 loyale.. I think 1100 that's a reasonable price...it's alot better than 500.00 that people sell for when it's not running,when they can't figure out the timing belt dele ma LOL! I would start at 1100... Sorry your not having a goodtime...; (

If anything the bolts go through the head into the block... so i wouldn't worry too much about the head but the block is what I would be worried about... I'm sure you got it out by now... i used compressed air and a tap with some oil to chase the threads.. so when you do chase@ clean the crud@ them take in account the length of the bolt to the tap... so ya don't get stuck...

Might be the fuel pump it's self... I'm still knocking on wood mine has yet to die... i hear others talk about the pump alot... who knows about the tach issue though it may be reading the o2 sensor that there is no emissions at the time that there is a lean conditions present as if the fuel air mix is less when and if the pump drops pressure or doesn't pump even though the ignition is on it want to shutdown...? In the mean time.. check fuses and the other ovbvious ones we somtimes overlook fuse able links on the coolant bottle and all connections brittle wiring connectors.... others will be in soon to help..

Spfi-single port fuel injection it would say that on top of intake boot that sits on the manifold just one round piece over the center of body is an injector Carburetor would have an air cleaner on top

I would look at thee distributor rotor again...screw could have backed out.. mine did.. sounded like a tottal misfiring episode when mine did.. I changed.the belts etc just find the screw laying on its side under the rotor.. I looked but failed to do the touchy Feely good luck on this amazing day of life

I wouldn't think performance wise, if anything it will hold less of the valuable oil we eventually leak