thesubeguy

even after removing the 4 bolts on the fan itself there wasn't enough clearance to remove the radiator without damaging it. now its just a straight lift in and out no hitting anywhere

fan wouldn't come off without damaging the radiator in some way. wjm why wouldn't you do it again?

in my sube i've got a twin core that every single time i remove it or put it in, it somehow seems to bend fins and all around mess it up. finally fed up with it i decided to cut into the radiator support from one side of the radiator to the other. worked incredibly well and now its a straight shot in and out with no hitting anywhere. definately recommend doing this for anyone with a twin core or if they just don't like fighting with the fan anymore. i'll get pics soon

i was drivin around like that for awhile until i got my 2.5 in catback. loved the looks of people next to me wondering what the hell it was

the breather hoses are pretty hard and cracked in a couple places. would a slight hole be causing some of these problems? also pulled the codes and while running it was saying code 33 (coolant temp sensor or switch) and code 12 (starter switch off)

gota 86 gl-10 turbo wagon that i just swapped my rx engine into. here's the problem... at first i get it to start up fine, cranks, starts, runs. take it for a test drive and a couple minutes into the drive it suddenly looses power and won't go above 3 grand, if it makes it that high while bogging out. this is all after it was sitting and warming up. at first once it's warmed up i can also get it to sit at 4 grand in the garage with no problem for a couple minutes. when it dies on the test run its incredibly hard to start and shoots blue smoke out, but when running it doesn't shoot smoke out. just replaced the pcv valve as well

Was driving on lake city way and at the subaru repair place there was a sexy red loyale turbo wagon with a hood scoop, 22b vents and a front air damn. had to pull over and get a closer look. good lookin car

found out what the problem was on this. the fuseable link box was all messed up and somehow was conduction electricy everywhere even through some plastic. swapped in another box that i had sitting around from my rx, turned key and fired right up. i think the connections were all corroded inside the gl-10 box.

getting voltage with link out. alternator is near brand new bosch

no i'm getting 12v with the link out. isn't it completing a circuit with it in, but with it out there should be no current running through it. it's going across where the link would be.

but if the links are out why am i getting voltage

where the black/white wire coming from the fuseable link box goes to

so is the big fat white wire that goes from the fuseable links to the alternator? or do i have somethin hooked up wrong...

Crazy idea but i thought these things were supposed to cut the flow of electricity through those wires, but when i hook up the battery i get a 12v reading from the red connection, about a 2v from the inner green one, and a little less than 1v from the other green and black ones. Yes i don't have the links in place when i'm doing this. Is this supposed to happen or do i have a connection somewhere in the circuitry... HELP Andrew

bump

1986 gl-10. gotta trace down a funky connection. Andrew

checked all fuses even under dash, battery is fine is less than a year old optima and has been starting my z the entire time. the thing is that it has pretty much no power whatsoever. the only signal that there is some power getting from the battery is that the oil light comes on in that bar of red lights, but is incredibly dim, and the hatch button works Andrew

86 turbo wagon. just swapped a previously running engine into it. had it crank, started for a couple seconds, now when i turn the key there is no power, just a very dim oil light coming on. checked the fusable links and they're all there, even did continuity test on the backs of em to make sure. any idea what this sudden loss of all power could be? oh and the button that locks and unlocks the rear hatch still works for some reason..... AHH Andrew

Picked up a turbo wagon with the pinball machine digidash. Got an rx with a manual dash. Benifits? Downfalls? what should i keep in the wagon since everything is gettin torn out of the rx to swap to the wagon Andrew

any idea what the adjustable strut would do? would it just raise the spring compression ratio and nothing to the damping rate? Andrew

is it the coil or the shock absorber? here's a plan i had if it was the coil... got my wrecked rx, picked up a perfect turbo wagon with what seems to be almost new shocks and adjustable struts. if i replaced the wagon coils with my rx coils, what would happen? and if i adjusted the strut to the most compressed position, would it be more benificial? Andrew

just to clarify, yes i'm swapping the entire tranny which means the shift linkage as well. my main question is can i use all the wiring and vaccuum hoses that used to control the pushbutton 4wd, and use the same vaccuum hoses and just rewire the button that was on top of the pushbutton 4wd for my center lock diff. Andrew

not the shift linkage, just the button thats on top of the shifter and rewire it to be my difflock switch. i'll swap the entire tranny as well as rear end since i've got the lsd from the rx. but am i wrong in thinking that this button essentially does the same type of job that the difflock switch does? push it, its engaged and a completed circuit. release it its disengaged and not a completed circuit. same thing with the difflock switch. engaged and disengaged Andrew

alright got the car yesterday and its a 4wd push button. just thinking that the push button uses the same system as the center locking diff to work, would it make sense to rewire the diff lock switch inplace of the pushbutton? and why would i have to swap out the axles, its a turbo as well. same spline count isn't it... Andrew