unverviking

was surprised this weekend on my trip to get 29 MPG on my 3.0 with 140k on it.

My cargo cover went limp the other day... it won't retract any more, anyone know of any fix, new spring maybe ? It's an 01 VDC Outback, in case anyone is wondering...

Sorry, I thought the year and model was listed in my profile... my bad. But it is an 01 OBW LL Bean VDC. I called tech support on the trailer box, they were of no help, said if you don't see it on the driver's side, pull apart the passenger side. I will do that... Just was hoping to have overlooked it in a pocket or secret compartment or something... lol

I bought a plug in converter for trailer wiring, the directions say that it is on the left side, from the rear, I pulled everything apart on that side (drivers) and located the wires going to the back, but not the plug that I need to plug in to. I felt along the entire length in the cargo area, no luck. I also followed over to the right side and didn't see anything on that path. I did not pull anything on the right side to look. The only good I got out of it, was I found a little green wire that goes to the antenna box (by clarion) for the window antenna has the sheathing frayed, so I have to tape it off, so it doesn't rub anymore off... Anyone have any knowledge on where this thing is ??? Please and thank you in advance.

Parts guy at NAPA today told me he shows 6 quarts as capacity. Love the fact it's a chain, I thought that, but wasn't certain. Love it so far... The 6 is so quiet and smooth. I'm really glad I dumped my 07 Pontiac for it.

I picked up a 2001 Outback LL bean VDC last night. It has the H6 3.0 and I have a few questions on it. I'm hoping that the motor is not plagued with the 2.5 head gasket issues. My first question is on the Oil Capacity, Whomever had it before me, their mechanic wrote 6 1/4 quarts on the cowl of the engine... I am wondering if that how much it really takes or not ? I really don't want to overfill, or underfill. I'd rather have the right amount when I go to do the job. Lastly, is there anything special that I should be looking out for on this particular model ? Thanks in advance for all the help.

The bulb is a 55 watt bulb (small) with a wire tailpiece. I've seen them used on fog lights before... I would do both, not a real big hassle, but at least get the 2nd bulb, cuz, you know it'll blow next week on ya... I was told at Advance Auto Parts (Parts America) that it was a dealer only bulb... LIE. Went to NAPA, they had several in stock, for under 10 bucks. Just in case the "boys" at AZ tell you the same story...

Someting I thought of on this... Wouldn't a continuity check (on most volt meters) show a 0 if you were to check between both grounding points ?? Because you're checking from end to end on the wire... Then wouldn't a check on any metal point on both the trailer and car be a 0 in order for the ground to be truly connected ?? I'll have to try this next time I think about it, and have mine hooked up.

Another tell tale sign of a bad ground issue is if you were to have the Right Turn Signal on , and you could see very slight blinking in the left side as well. Did you use one of those univeral modules that combine the turn and brake into 1 for the trailer ?? If so, did you run a 12volt line in to it from the battery ?? The one that I installed earlier this year needed a 12volt into it, along with the left turn, right turn, and brake. Working fine.

Awesome link, THANKS... VB is famous for great vehicle pricing, but their parts they sell to everyone at FULL Retail... I've been that route with them several times... Always ended up buying online when I needed dealer only parts... Although... I've talked to the parts guy at the "new" Spurr Subaru (alot closer than VB) and they sell for a few percent over whtat they pay, just to get more parts business. I'm leaning to sticking with AZ for now... Their price makes the difference, especially for someone who is on a tight budget...

I have to agree with that... Did one this spring on my 96 Imp OBW. The wiring was the easiest part... 1 of those "universal" modules. Hardest part was running 12 volt line from the battery to the back of the car... Still better than paying the local trailer hitch dealer $79 to install the $150 hitch and wiring.

My "adopted" mother in law (wife's best friend's mom) called yesterday, her check engine light came on, and she's due for the wonderful NYS inspection, where it can't have the Check Engine Light on... She came by today, I took it to the local NAPA and they scanned a knock sensor code. In looking at the plugs and wires, they were fair at best... So I replaced them, hoping that maybe the knock sensor code was caused by a misfire by 1 of the plugs/wires. When I drove it there, it seemed a bit hesitant, so I figured that in any event, a new set of plugs and wires wouldn't hurt. I drove it after replacing the plugs/wires and the positive terminal (fairly badly corroded) and it seemed to run much better, and no hesitation noted. I pulled the battery to do the plugs on the driver's side, and it reset the light. I drove it about 5 miles, no light. She drove home (~30 miles) it came on within a mile from her house... I am assuming that the knock sensor threw the code again, and wondering where it is located, so that I can replace it quickly, without having to tear the whole thing apart looking for it... Last question... Is there any difference in buying one from Auto Zone, NAPA, or the dealer part... They should all be the same... RIGHT ????? I'm leery about AZ parts (Duralast), I trust NAPA parts (Echlin), and don't want to pay dealer prices... The AZ price is about $76, NAPA $93, dealer... Who knows. The specifics on the car... 99 Legacy OBW Limited, Auto, A/C, ~85k. Thanks to all who reply...

if I remember correctly, in our 01 OBW we had to put a rolled up towel under our baby seat base. My friend who is a professional fireman, and is/was trained at the time in infant seat installation. He said that in many cars like that they needed to have the back boosted on them to fit with the belt properly, and to be leveled correctly. It did take both of us to get it tight enough. We literally had to sit in it and adjust the belt at the same time. I will say that the new LATCH system is much better. We have it now in our Sonata, it makes installing the seat a whole lot easier. No more needing a 2nd person to sit in the seat while tighting the belt.

UPDATE Received the driveshaft back today from Drive Shaft Specialists. I had the car halfway jacked up when the UPS guy delivered it. Had it installed within 45 minutes. Rides great, no more shaking... Now I need to fix the Speedo Cable... Any suggestions ?? More on the driveshaft... They cut off the old yoke ends, and rewelded new ones on with greasable u-joints, installed a new carrier bearing, it was rebalanced, then painted. The 2 day return was worth the $45 extra, especially since it wouldn't have arrived until NEXT Tuesday (5/13) with ground... I checked once it was all back together, all the u-joints are accessable for greasing without pulling anything off. Overall, I am extremely pleased with this repair. I'm glad that I did this one, it would have been another charge for diagnosis and then the rest... Saved a bunch... I think...

On my old 93 Legacy L Wagon 2.2, 5MT got 29MPG HWY on a trip with a heavy load in it 1 way... It had about 200k on it on that trip. My current 96 Imp OBW 2.2, 4EAT got about 28 MPG HWY on a trip with the family and a trunk load of stuff. It was summer and used the A/C. Around town this winter, it got 21-23 MPG. It has 125k on it now. Still a youngin... Our 01 OBW 2.5, 4 EAT got about 25-6 on the HWY and 19-20 around town. Had 86k on it when we traded it 2 years ago.