Downbound

2012 outback 3.6. 158,000 km's The low oil light came on 3000 km's after an oil change. The dip stick was only down about 1/2. Topped it up but the oil light never went off. I know it sometimes takes awhile for the light to go off but it was on for 2 days. Found this fix on Utube and it worked like a charm. Does anybody have any idea why it worked? Does it reset the sensors? Thanks

Had the same problem with my 02 outback...smell of gas at start up but only when the temp was cold. Turned out the clamps needed to be tightened on the fuel line.

Had the same code with my 99 forester. Finally found out it was a burnt exhaust valve. Simple test to check is to hold a dollar bill over the exhaust when it is running and if the bill gets sucked in then blown out it is the exhaust valve.

2012 Outback 3.6 R, 138,800 kms. Bought the car used in Sept. 2015 with 70,000 kms. Noticed in early 2016 that after first thing in the am after backing out of my lane way and then when shifting into drive there is a hesitation followed by a loud clunk which sounds like it is coming from the rear diff.. It only happens once, first trip of the day and never does it again that day. Also it doesn't do it every day only intermittently. Took it back to the dealer and they gave me a loaner, kept it overnight and of course it didn't do it the next morning. Took it home and of course a few days later the clunk was back. Took it back and once again it failed to produce the clunk. Ran fine for the rest of the summer and then in Nov. 2016 when the weather was colder the clunk returned. Took it back and my service adviser noticed the car now had 110,000 km's on it and was over due for the transmission service. This was performed, new tran fluid, front and rear diff fluid and relearn the tran module. The clunk was gone for 9 months until the end of July this year. Took the car back again. Got a loaner and they kept it for 2 days trying to reproduce the symptom. No luck. they did have a service bulletin about an software update for the trans module and installed that. They also checked the tranny for leaks and checked tranny level and all was fine. Took the car home and two days later the clunk is back, like I said only in the am and for the first trip of the day, then it runs fine and might not do it for a few days. I am bringing it in again next week and was wondering if anyone here has any ideas as to what night be going on. I have an extended warranty on the car that runs out at 152,000 km's so want to get this resolved. I know the diff oil is thicker in the am when it is cooler and the rpms are also higher creating more pressure and I have tried letting it warm up for 5 minutes before leaving and it still clunks but only intermittently. Thanks Alan

Had the same problem with my 02 outback in cold weather and the fix was the same.

Had the same problem with my 2001 Forester and 2002 Outback. Only on really cold days. It was the clamps as Steven suggested.

If you have a fob, hold down the unlock button for 5 sec. Worked on my 99 forester.

I had a 2002 outback wagon with the same problem. It gets pretty cold here and as soon as the temp dropped you could smell the gas. CNy dave's fix worked for me.

I agree with Fairtax on the pirelli's. My father-in-law, a vw man all the way would only run pirelli's because they were a really grippy tire. They did wear quicker than other brands but he said the handling they gave him outweighed the wear.

Hi...I just got a 2012 outback 3.6R last July. It is loaded and I absolutly love it. I have had 3 other subbies, 99 Forester, 01 Forester, 02 outback all with the 2.5. The 02 finally packed it in last july with 285,00 km's and I wanted to get something newer and with more power. The 3.6 has exceeded all expectations and I would definately urge you to consider it.

I had a 99 Forester with the same problem but on #3. Did everthing you did but still had the code. Turned out to be a burnt exhaust valve. Try thr dollar bill test. Get the car warmed up and hold a dollar bill in front of the exhaust pipe and if it grets sucked in and then out..probably a sign that the exhaut valve is burnt.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I got some clear silicone caulk and applied it all across the top between the plastic cover and the body and then opened the hatch and caulked everything that had a space where water could get in on the side of the hatch. Took it tthrough the car wash and "no water" ..guess I plugged wherever it was comming in. Thanks again.

Thanks for the suggestions....I will try them and see what happens.

Hi..2002 outback Ltd. After going through the carwash or after a heavy rain there is water in the passenger side back up light/brake light housing that is located on the rear hatch. When you open the rear hatch and pull open the access panel the water pours out around the bulb opening. There are no other wet spots on the roof panel or the floor. so I don't think it is the sunroof drains. I looked carefully for cracks in the plastic cover over the lights and did not see any. Any ideas where it might be geting in? I am thinking of using clear silicone caulking but not sure where to start. Thanks

Thanks, I will try that

Update, Well I had everything checked under the hood, belts, tensioneers, pulleys etc. Took my mechanic for a drive and of course it didn't do it. As a matter of fact it seemed to have dissapeared until last week when I was on the freeway and suddenly it was back. A high pitched whine that started and stopped that sounded like it was comming out from the dash right near the vent. I decided to turn off the AC, and radio put the window down and stuck my head out to see if I could hear anything.Of course it didn't do it. I put up the window and it started. Light went on in my head. Opened the window, noise stopped. Closed window noise resumed. It is comming from somewhere inside the door and is either the glass or some component vibrating. It seems to only do it if there is not a good seal when you close the door and can hear wind noise which is to say that it all depends if you close the door with the window up or down. My question now is...how big a job is it to remove the panel from the door to see what is going on. Or is there someway to make sure I get a good seal between the top of the window and the gasket. I am so relived to discover that is not comming from the engine compartment that if it is too big a job I may just live with it. Thanks

Saw this ad on Kijiji today...not much info but looks ok. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/ottawa/1996-subaru-outback-2-2-wagon/1000566321?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

It is a 2.5 and the hg and timing belt were changed at 160,000 km. I will check everything. Thanks

Hi all, 2002, outback ltd. auto, 225,00 km I have an intermitant noise which appears to be comming from behind the dash on the drivers side. It is a hight pitched whine that stops and starts. It only seeems to appear when I am on the freeway at speeds of 65 + mph. It seems to be activated sometimes by a bump in the road but not always, sometimes just will start whining for 1 or 2 seconds then stop then statr then stop. only at high speed. It does not last long and is non existant below 60 mph. Could it be spedo cable?? Is it easy to lube or replace? If not spedo then what do you think? Thanks

Had the same problem when I had my 99 forester..can't remember where I found the solution but wrote it down. Hold the unlock button on the fob for 5 sec.

Try heating it up with a hair dryer.

why not head down to your local subbie store and test drive a bunch of pre-owned, no matter what we say you are the one that needs to pick what is right for you.

Thanks for the replies. You are right later_peter I overlooked that the coolant was changed when they did the waterpump. I will just get them to check the the levels and what temp protection I have and make sure all the hoses are in good shape. Thanks

Hello. 2002 outback ltd. 208,000 km's. Bought it 2 years ago with 180,000 km's. Had timing belt/water pump/tensioners/pulleys/cam seals done right away as I didn't have any proof that it had been done. I am taking it in for it's 5,000 km oil change, e-test (gov't rip off), put on the winter toyo's and since I didn't know if the rad had ever been flushed and refilled asked if this would be recomended. My mechanic said if I wasn't having any heating issues and I don't know if it has ever been done it might be best to not flush it as if it is the first time it has been flushed you could stir up alot crud that might end up causing problems down the road. He said he would check all the hoses to make sure they were in good shape and test the coolant. I trust him but figured I would ask on here to see if anyone agrees or disagrees with this advice. Thanks

Some was selling a subaru on Kijiji and had this link. I am sure many of you have seen it but it was new to me and thought it very interesting.