Tbird Man

Anyone ever tried to adapt these http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/Drive_shaft_high_angle_and_long_splines.htm to a subie? I imagane you would have to weld the axle shaft to the CV and use the slip shaft design to allow for the change in turn center, or perhaps modify the front knuckles by moveing the Balljoint hole and strut mount. but that should work, oh and you would need 2 jionts per axle, so not cheap

1. that truck is not a deisel and they list the mods as headers, cam, and Methanol kit. 2. Yeah, of course the brakes, suspension, and safty need to be upgraded. I don't think I'll have the money to do this for some time, but we'll see, you never know. 3.?????? 4.PROFIT!!

They claim they only had to move the rad 4in, and the EZ30 is ~5in shorter.

Holy shezzy, scroll about 2/3 down this page, eg33 in a BRAT. http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000405#000018

well, gues I'll just have to drum up the money to do an EZ30r with remote turbo in my 'prezza.

EA81, EA82 etc is an engine code, do some research and you should have no problem finding informitave sites, and welcome to the subie community.

Yeah tweetsie is still here, And good post Subarubrat. Have you seen the Crawford Performance 719whp STI? 10.7sec 1/4 @133, that would go 200mph in the Lambaru.

heh, the remote turbo HAS been done, and it DOSE work, cheak the link I posted, that was my point. people were saying that remote turbos won't work, and I was saying that not only SHOULD they work, they DO work. Didn't mean to hijack or flame.

sounds like broken bands. also cheak fluid level.

Nasioc isn't to bad, every fourm has its Jerks, you just gotta ignore them.

yes, the 90/10 myth has been busted, the split varies as you drive depending on demand. and in 1st on the shifter it is 50/50, this came from someone who tapped into the signel line to the diff with a sillyscope and drove around testing it. and my personal exp getting the front wheels on ice and punching it, didn't feel like 10%. as for reverse, it is possible they coped out and made it default to 90/10 in reverse.

it is not that simple. hot is not attracted to cold, hot gasses are less dense than cold ones, thus they try to float above them. try all you want to discount it but go to sts's web site and look at the FAQ and testamonials. these systems work, how dose a 12sec ext cab 4x4 chevy fullsize truck sound?

that was a Honda motor and fwd transmission turned 90deg and driveshafts run to the solid axles, It is a small personal rockcrawler you can buy(forget the company that makes it) They also make some other interesting vechicles.

I agree that it is a what if, but since when is "what if" a bad thing, this is what inspires us, when we stop asking what if, we lose what makes us what we are. speaking of what if, what if we let all the what if ideas slip off into the sunset, and someone comes in with the resorces to do something but never hears the ideas of bright men and women that do not have those resorces. Ideas are a great thing, and not something to be kept to onesself. Just my bucko2.

it should, can't say for sure.

sts's systems work http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1473169/f/Video/Z71_Beats_LS1.wmv

Don't turbos have to be really hot to work properly? Putting a torch to your turbo and getting it hot doesn't produce boost. What produces boost is airflow across the turbine which causes the turbine to spin. If turbochargers required very high temperatures to produce boost, Diesel trucks and Methanol Race cars wouldn't be able to run turbos. However, each of these "Low Exhaust Temperature" vehicles work very well with turbochargers when, like any turbo application, the turbocharger is sized correctly. In a conventional, exhaust manifold mounted turbocharger system, the extra heat causes the air molecules to separate and the gas becomes "thinner" because of the extra space between the molecules. This extra space increases the volume of air but doesn't increase the mass of the air. Because the volume is higher, the velocity of the gas has to be higher to get it out in the same amount of time. By mounting the turbo further downstream, the gasses do lose heat energy and velocity, however, there is just as much mass (the amount of air) coming out of the tailpipe as there is coming out of the heads. So you are driving the turbine with a "denser" gas charge. The same number of molecules per second are striking the turbine and flowing across the turbine at 1200F as there is at 1700F. Front mounted turbos typically run an A/R ratio turbine housing about 2 sizes larger because the velocity is already in the gasses and the volume is so big that the turbine housing must be larger to not cause a major restriction in the exhaust system which would cause more backpressure. With the remote mounted turbo, the gasses have condensed and the volume is less, so a smaller A/R ratio turbine housing can be used which increases the velocity of the gasses while not causing any extra backpressure because the gas volume is smaller and denser. Sizing is everything with turbos. There is more to sizing a turbo for an application than cubic inches, Volumetric Efficiency, and RPM ranges. A turbo must also be sized for the exhaust temperatures. A turbine housing sized for 1700F gasses would have lag if the gasses were 1200F. This is why turbo cars have lag when they are cold and not warmed up yet. Both systems work well if sized correctly.

oh, and those systems are for much longer cars with more plumbing.

Doesn't heat create the velocity in the exhaust gasses to spool the turbo? No, heat doesn't create velocity. Heat creates volume. If you look at any of the physics laws for gasses, you will find that pressure and volume and heat are related. PV=NRT is a popular one, The V isn't for velocity, it is for Volume. The turbine housing is what creates the velocity. The scrolling design that reduces the volume of the exhaust chamber as it scrolls around causes the gasses to have to increase in velocity and pressure to maintain the same flow rate. Hotter gasses have more volume, thus requiring a higher A/R which in effect means that it starts at say 3" and scrolls down to approximately 1". Lower temperature gasses are denser and have less volume, so they require a lower A/R housing which would start at the same 3" volume, as the turbine housings use standard flanges, and scroll down to say 3/4". Now if you were to reverse the housings in application, the conventional turbo would spool up extremely quick, at say around 1500 rpm but would cause too much backpressure at higher rpms because the higher volume of gas couldn't squeeze through the 3/4" hole without requiring a lot of pressure to force it through. On the reverse side, the remote mounted turbo with its cooler denser gasses, wouldn't spool up till say around 4000 rpms but once spooled up would make efficient power because it doesn't require hardly any backpressure to push the lower volume of gas through the larger 1" hole. from http://ststurbo.com/f_a_q

Look, turbos do NOT simply work off heat, They are more efficent with hoter gasses but it is the pressure of expending gasses that turns a turbo. I don't care how hot you get a turbo, untill there is some gasses pushing through the turbine houseing , you get NO boost. conversely if you have no heat the turbo will still make boost, if you don't believe me take a turbo and blow an air compressor into the exaust side(could damage turbo, only do it to an old junk one), thats not hot air, but it dose make boost. Is lag an issue in a remoat install, yes. But it is alot easier to install in the back and run some plumbing than it is to pull the motor and bold turbo headers. that is the appeal of remoat mount systems, ease of install and a moderate boost of power.

I think you could do it if you angled the rad perhaps. or mounted it in the back with plexi ducting for you wagon/hatch boys, and in the bed with ducting for Brat. Remoat mounting the rad will work, look at the water cooled porshe mods, they run a front rad to the rear motor. *edit* Just think, scoops in place of rear side glass and exiting out the back

The EZ30 is about 18" long front to back, 32" wide at the front (cam chain cover) 29" wide head to head, and 25.5" sump to intake. source http://www.linaracing.com/pics/eventdetail.cfm?year=2003&event=H6%20Conversionhow dose this compare to the ER27?

you could try to run the shaft down and out the front something like this (or along the side just under the driverside header.) --------------- _________ --------------/|---------| _ ___---------|---------| | |-||||||||||||---------| | |---___ (o)\|_________| |_|================||{

all EJ motors are the same boltpattern but somedifferences in clutch /flywheel that are easily mixed and matched to work. I have never heard of a 3.5, you mean the EJ33?

you should look into the EZ30R, not too much bigger than the EJ motors, but its an H6. Subie went to great lengths to shorten it like useing a timeing chain instead of a belt, etc. the EZ30 is essentally the same but a little older and has single exaust ports on each side and the R has tri port exaust. though the conversion is a bit more invloved as you need the special ignition key equipment for the security.