sregor13

Thanks again. I knew it was the right sensor. I dont know why it wouldnt fit. Does any have a theory about why it wouldn't fit?

Josh thanks for the response. Your pic from a couple of weeks back is how I was able to pull the sensor with such ease. So I might have the car towed to a Subaru Shop in the Morning, but I am starting to get low on funds. Do you think the sensoe is different for the 90 vs. the 94? Thanks

I have seen this discussed before and I am also expereince the same thing in my 90 Loyale. First of, I think most agree it will not damage the Tranny to Drive in the FWD Mode. Period. Second I dont think changing fluid will do you any good. i would stick to the Duty Solenoid concept. Search for "Binding" or Solenoid C and you should find out a little more about this. Mine is believe to be an electrical problem more than anything else. But I think I remeber someone saying there a two simple things to change and check in the tranny and if it isn't one of those things then you might need a new tranny. One of those is the solenoid.

I bought a car out in Long Island that was believed to a have a bad crank sensor. I called to subaru Dealerships to verify the Crank Sensor from my 90 Legacy L would fit into the newer 94 Legacy. I flew a friend from here in Wyoming to La Gaurdia and he soon thereafter arrived at the location of the 94 Subaru Legacy LS. The seller of the car and my buddy attempted to take out the "bad" Crank Sensor and replace it. Apparently the Sensor would not come loose. The seller of the Car took a Drill a began to drill out the old crank sensor. I guess it was a huge drill and bit. Once he got it out the Crank Sensor I had sent would not fit. It was to big. My friend believes that this guy drilled to far beyond the Crank Sensor and into "whatever is below the Sensor" Does anyone know here what would be below the Crank Sensor and if a Engine could be ruined from such a manuver. We are in a pretty tight spot right now. Also does anyone know if the Sensors are different for the 90 Legacy L and the 94 Legacy LS? I mean they said the one from my 90 was notably larger. But even yet, say it was the wrong one. If that is the case, say I get the right sensor first thing in the morning-" Do you think the car may be ruined? from the drilling? This is time sensitve so I will be happy to taker anyones ideas on this one- even if they are just guesses. Thanks, Gabe

I got a camshaft seal and an oil pan gasket. I guess I will change the Timing Belts when I am in there. Are there any other Seals I can change? Is there a Oil Pump Gasket? If so does any one know where to get one online? Thanks, Gabe

Okay thanks. on this Loyale the Wires were black and under the Dash Coming off the ECU. The working on my car plugged those in thinking they needed to be plugged in. I did read the codes anyway and got 33, 35, and 42. Thanks

If you were in Wyoming in a situation like that you could get a Sheriffs Title. If the Vehicle is on your property then you call and request a Sheriffs Title, they post it in the paper and try to see if anyone steps forward. If not after thirty days you can get a new Title. Just something to consider, then again a Wyoming Cop would probably get a beer out of the Fridge for you while you were switching the VIN Tags just to avoid all the Paperwork of a Sheriffs Title.

My Loyale has alot of problems. The newest is that the check engine light is flashing like its a turnl signal. I am not sure what this is all about. Previously my Power Light would flash about 17 Times upon turing the key to the on position. Which it still does this and i have yet to solve. I am mostly curious about this flashing engine light. Thanks

Ok, just to clarify. Crank Sensors are over $300 Dollars for the 90-94 Legacy's. The 25 Dollar Sensors people keep mentioning must be for Crank Sensors that were put on Later Model Distributorless Ignition Systems. So in a sense Mudrat is right, but if we are talking about Legacies from 90-94, I still have not found one for under $300. Dealership or otherwise. Thanks, Gabe

Here is my advice based on the experiences I have had in my 87 GL Turbo. One- Make sure your Fuel Filter is clear replace if needed. Also if ran real low on gas add some Seafoam to clear it up. I think it is your Wastegate Valve on the Turbo. Mine runs fine up until 30MPH, then it runs like crap. Hope that helps.

The 4 Numbers on the key can also be found on the passenger side door lock. It is kinda a pain to pull out but it will save you a bundle, if you can take it to the Locksmith. If you want someone to give it a try at a retail chain you might have luck. Or you may return home after a 40 Minute Fiasco only to find that your new key either does not work, works poorly, or works on the door but not the ignition....etc.. I personally would not waste my time with anyone other than the Subaru Dealership or an actual Locksmith. You need someone with a Code Reader. Dealerships often call our Locksmith to make keys for them. He takes those 4 Numbers and punches them into his computer with high dollar Locksmith Software and it spits out a code. He then types the code in his Code Reader, which tells the machine when and how deep to cut. Works like a charm everytime. Hope this helps

All the Crank Sensors from the Colorado Dealerships are about $380. I did find out that it is the smae part numver for all 90-94 Legacy's. Not sure about the Turbo. But I have one of my 90 that I can put in. I did buy the car and need to get it from New York to Wyoming. So I am going to send out a Crank Sensor and have it put in. The guy I bought the Car from said the Car wont start. He said there is not power to the Coil or something like that? I am not sure exactly what he said becasue it was over the phone and I was at work. Does anyone know if a Bad Crank Sensor would keep the Car from Starting? Thanks

I am thinking about buying a Legacy, and the guy says the only thing wrong with it is that it needs a new crank sensor. Does anyone know what a Crank Sensor is and how much it might cost to have replaced. Even if I have to buy one from a dealership? Thanks, Gabe

Some one may have already suggested this, but I would check the Compression. Sounds like you have a warped engine. I could be wrong but I recognize those symptoms from the Various Blown Head Gaskets I have had on different Subies. Good Luck, hope you write to tell me I am wrong. Thanks

Okay, sorry for the confusion. it does have a Carb. It is an 85 GL, manual transmission. I have owned this car about two months, and it ran for about two weeks. So I dont know about the timing belt. Tonigh,t when I started it, it could barely hold an idle. It was sputtering just to stay alive. So it is already pretty cold here in Wyo. I am going to replace the terminal on the positive battery cable. It was looking a little rough. The terminal was tightened to the max and it would slide right of battery. So aside from that, I still have not been able to locate the Fuel Filter(s). But one interesting thing is that there is something major missing under the hood. If you are standing at the front looking under the hood. On the Passenger side, below the spare tire, near the ground. There is this muffler looking thing that has a hole on the top with a hose clamp. Looks a hose was once there, because the hose clamp is still there. Looks like part of the exhaust system, and the hole is about 3". Anyway there is no hose and the hole has been plugged. Almost looks like a metal plate was stuck down in there. I dont know if this is just an option that was not needed, or if a non OEM mod was done. Do you guys think that it is the Catylitic Convertor? So thanks for all of you Folks input.

Interesting, i will have to look again because I have been working on three Subaru's at once and I might be confused. I am not positive that it is a GL. I mainly said GL becasue it does have 4WD and Options. I say it is Fuel Injected becasue under the hood directly in front of the spare is a the Air Filter. This is usually where I find the Carb, but on this car there is what looks very much like fuel injection. The other problem is that I cant find the Filter. I have owned many different Sub's. For some reason I cant find the Filter in the usual place. Tonight I will confirm the Model and Options. It is a manual transmission and it is not Turbo. Unless the rust has covered up the Turbo Logo or it was not labeled turbo. I

I am guessing noc sensor or injector

Okay, not to many replies on this thread. I am going to add some info to see if it revives. First off when I first got the car a couple of months back the owners were saying that it had developed a high pitch whine that was coming from an undetermined location. The noise would go away after driving it for a minute or to. Also about a week later I heard this squelling coming from somewhere under the hood while I was driving. I got worried as I spent every last penny on this car hoping it would get us through the winter. So the squelling went away and was intermittent for a couple of weeks. Then one day I heard the horrible squell again, only this time it was more pronounced, and smelt something like burnt rubber. After that the car has ran very poorly. It wont go over 35 miles per hour. It will idle okay but has no power. There was one night the car actually ran fine but that only lasted for about twenty minutes. So I am open to any suggestions to try. I will look at the pump and the Filter first. Then I will look into the tank for rust. This car is Fuel Injected? Any ideas? Thanks

Numbchux and Northwet, You have been alot of help thus far with the diagnoses of this car. Today, I changed the starter from a 87 GL10 Wagon Manual. Which is the not the right starter, but I thought it might work. Well I learned the proper way to take off a starter. When I went to take the starter of the 87 I took the wrong bolts of and slowly removed the starter peice by peice. I disregarded my better instincts and went by the instructions in Chilton's. Bad Idea.. So anyways I got the starter put back together and put it on my 90 Loyale Turbo w/ Auto. I tried the key and it did not start. No surprise. But then I did my typical Screwdriver start (jump the starter from the solenoid) and it did start. I thought, that since I have changed the Ignition Switch and I have changed the starter, then perhaps my problem is in the Ignition coil. But it was getting dark and cold so I monkeyed around with the Ignition coil for just a moment and then ruled it futile due to the fact that I was cold and dark and I was hungry. All that being said I then got into the Car and started it with the key. Thats right,it has succesfully started about 8 times from the Key. I dont know what changed. Perhaps it was the starter? Perhaps it was something else... I dont know. When I initially started this afternoon project I assumed it was the Magnetic Coil in the starter that was bad, perhaps that is the case. Thanks for your help on this one and I hope that the particular problem does not return.

Great advice from Northwet. That should cover everything. Some experiences I have had, hope they can assist you or anyone else in troubleshooting. Seems familiar to the time my Battery terminals and Cables needed replaced/cleaned. Particularly the cluster of wires on the Positive Cable Terminal. I was broke down on Elk Mountain in Wyoming in the middle of winter and had to shove a piece of a Bic Pen into the Positive portion of the terminal to give it a solid connection. It worked for a short while. Later I cleaned all those wires good and scraped them with my Gerber. I got new terminals, soldered them and never looked back. Another time on an 87 GL Turbo the positive lead (or at least I think it was the Positive Lead- Has a Yellow Ring Terminal on it), on the back of the Alternator got brittle and was only connecting intermittently. I recommend replacing that ring terminal or checking that out closely. Also, those to or three grounds on your chassis right by your Negative Battery terminals should be looked at with a fine tooth comb. Been stranded more than once because of those bad boys. Maybe get someone to crank the key when you are looking under the hood. Besides those obvious things don't forget to check all your Fusible Links. I think there are four of them on your car. If not visually, use a Multimeter to check them out. If you are testing them in place then set your reader to 50VDC. When in place with Juice ( car on ) Touch the needles to each side of the link and it should read Zero . If you take them out to check them, put your reader on Ohms ( make sure the battery is good on your Multimeter if it is Analog) and touch each side with the needles. It should read Zero. ( Disclaimer- I may be corrected on the Zero is good in both cases statement- I asked a Electrical Engineer about this just yesterday, but we were talking on the Phone and I was distracted.etc.. So assume that Zero is good in both cases. Unless some oldtimer with infinite knowledge points out the lunacy of my advice.) Consider buying a Battery Charger made by Schumacher Electric. ( Ebay for like 50 Dollars) This has Speed Charge and Smart Charge 2AMP 30AMP and a 60AMP Jumpstart setting. Best of all it has a Battery and Alternator tester. (This feature will pay for itself) It has a red LED that can tell you alot about Electric Problems. After owning about 12 different Subaru's over the years I wish I had gotten this sooner. I can't tell you how many times I have changed a battery and Alternators in Subaru's just for the ake of testing. I have had pretty good luck with my Alternators lately, but it is not winter yet. I don't know about the 93 Loyale, but if I ran the Rear Defrost in any of my Subes I would have my eyes locked on the Voltmeter while driving. If you add headlights, a Stereo and the Heater you may not be generating enough Power to charge you battery. Worse yet your battery may be charging but have sulfated to the degree that it has no Cranking Amps, or cannot holde a charge. If you can have someone test those battery's with a Load Tester. I dont know your knowledge of batteries but if they dont enough cranking amps then you can get a Smart Charger that sends pulses of high AMPS to recondition the batteries. Anyway sorry about the rant, but I hope you can take somthing useful from it. Good Luck!

Does anyone here think it would be feasible to take a moonroof out of a 1987 Subaru GL Wagon Turbo and Mount it in a 90 Loyale Wagon Turbo. I realize that I would have to cut a hole for it. I would love to hear everbody's thoughts on that Mod before I attempt it! Thanks again

I have a 87 GL Wagon Turbo Auto doing the same thing. I have long suspected Electrical Issues. I first experienced the problem and noticed the Positive Lead on the Alternator was fried. The car ran fine for ahwhile after replacing the Connector. It ran fine for ahwhile but then problems with the battery terminals were causing problems. I replaced the terminals, which helped but the car still bucks if it is moving at all. It will idle fine indefinatly, but then if I try to drive it bucks as you have described. The guy I got the car from says that the previous owner said it was the overflow wastegate valve? I have not been able to track down this guy to find out what it is. But if I do then I will be sure to followup. Hope someone solves this, so that I can get mine going.Thanks

Have you tried Rinkers Salvage for the Tank. If not then I have a 86 2WD 3-Door Couple that I would sell you the tank off of. I do not know if this would be the right size tank. I dont know what "carbed" is. But anyway I am up in Lander.

My 90 Loyale calls for a 15 AMP Fuse, but I have read a 10 AMP Fuse is sufficient.

I am not sure if you found it or what year your car is, but in my 90 Loyale the Switch is located under the hood on the Drivers side about 8 inches away from the Firewall. It is very close to the Fusabe Links Box. Mine does not saw FWD becasue that was written on the Cover which was lost long ago. Thanks