sregor13

I agree that leaving the Fuse in does not cause problems, however, I must point out that it was an option in the 1990 Loyale. My Loyale has Fulltime 4WD with the Fuse for FWD. Thanks

I paid $200 for this car with 118000 Miles on it. Do you think it is worth it to fix all these problems or part it out. Also, not mentioned it the fact that oil recently began pouring out of the Front below the Fuel Pump I think. It is a Turbo which is appealing but, Loyale's have very little options, Where are the rear Speakers and the Map Lights. Can you say Basic? Thanks again

Okay thanks for the reply. I got the Fuse mixed up, you are right. I put a fuse in to engage the FWD. Also, the Female Spade Connector is not currently hooked up to the Starters Male Spade Connector. However, when it is connected the Starter Ocassionally works and sometimes it does not. So where is the Starter Switch Loacted? Also where is the Center Diff? Is that something different than the Front and Rear Diffs? Thanks again.

Careful, if this is relevant- I was told that Subaru Wiring Harness's can not handle that nuch Juice 60-7o AMPS max. I would like to know how this works out for you. I can rember what year they made the Upgrade to the harness but I don think it was until Late 90's Ealy 2000's. Let me know if wires start melting becasue I need more DC Myself. Thanks

I have to tranport my newborn baby girl and my only running car is experiencing several problems of concern. 1. The Oil Pressure Gauge the Voltometer and the Thermostat all work intermittently. They did not work at all for ahwhile and then I lost the Fuel Gauge as well. So I bought and new Panel from another Loyale and tried to install it for troubleshooting. It was from a non turbo and wierd things were happening. So I put the old one back in. The gauges worked fine. I thought great! Then I was driving down the road a few days later and I noticed the Voltometer dropping below 12V (I watch this alot after driving Subaru's for years in the Winter) Then all the sudden I lost three of the four Gauges on my Instrument Panel. After ahwhile they all began to work again. But I see them drop in and out. The Gas Gauge has yet to go, but as was the case last time, it went out last) . This would be a problem! So, another thing going on that may be related is the Fact that the Car will not start by turning the key. I must first turn the Key and then Jump the car from the starter ( I do this by touching the Positive Lead on the Starter to the Male Spade coming off the Starter with a SCrewdriver. (I am going to try to rectify that problem by replacing the Starter) What I don't understand is why the starter will start the Car this way, but it wont start by turning the Key) So I imagine it is the solenoid or some like component of the Starter. My Subaru Book does not make reference to a Solenoid. But if my Chevy was doing this I would think it was the Solenoid. The reason I metion the Starter is in case the Electrical Issues are related. So any thoughts on either or those issues or collectively on both would be much appreciated. 2. This next one is a real chump stumper. The car appears to sieze up in the rear end after driving for about 30-45 Miles. You will be driving and then you can feel it getting tight in the rear end. If you go around a turn you can the back wheel just screeching and locking up. This car is a Full Time 4x4 and has had the rear end replaced by the previous owner once already for this problem. Their is not a Mechanic in town that can figure it out. Clues- My mechanic pointed out that the previous owner had 4 tires of Various Sizes, and we all know that is a bad thing. We immediatly put on a set of 4 Equally Sized Tires. My mechanic then took it for spin until it acted up. He hit each wheel with his Temperature Gun to see if it might be Hub in the back or possibly the Front. All 4 Wheels had the same temp, so we ruled out the hubs. We thought it might in the Front or Rear Differential. He claims to have looked at the rear differential and found nothing out of the ordinary. We have taken out the Fuse thats keeps it in 4x4 Mode and it seems to have the same problems, in FWD as well. So I am at a loss for these two maladies. One looming issues is that I cant get this fixed and it is the only running car we have with our Newborn Girl. Noone in this two horse town knows Subies. My mechanic has a Computer Program that has schematics and stuff for cars. He can not find the info for the Fulltime 4wd Loyale. Does this sound like a differential problem or a Transmission Problem? So I realize this is very long post and I apologize in advance for rambling. However, I rest assured in the fact that this is the best, and my only resource for Subaru knowledge. I will beg, barter, or downright pay cash for a solution to these issues among others that are keeping my family from the good life. So anyway the Car is a 90 Loyale Wagon with Full Time 4WD. VIN Number JF2AN57BXLH401976. Any INFO would be helpful. Thanks, Gabriel

I think my car is Fuel Injected. So ruling out the Carb, any other thoughts. Thanks

I have a 85 Wagon that runs but if you try to go over 30-35 MPH then it starts to choke. It will sputter like it is going to die but it does keep going very slowly. Everything runs good until you get up to that speed. I think it may be the fuel pump, but someone suggested that it may be the Overflow Waste Gate Valve. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to check first. Thanks

First check the battery- A battery can have 12 Volts but no Cranking Amps. I would try a jump start from a good battery to rule out that, or try a battery you know is good. Second check the terminals on the back of the alternator to see if there is a good connection. If the battery has 12 Volts then your alternator is probably not the problem. If you have a Multimeter then check to see if the alternator is charging. Third, if the battery is good and you have power in the car ie. headlights, dashlights etc. Then crank the key and listen to what happens. If you hear cranking but it does not start then check for spark.( If you dont know how to do this then let me know) If you don't hear cranking then it may be the Starter or a related component of the starter ie. Soleniod (if indeed the Subaru Starter has a Solenoid) Finally, you can try to start it using the method I have been using every day for the Past four months. Get a really long screw driver. Look at the very back of the Starter ( Under the spare tire ) . You should see a big red wire that is connected with a ring terminal. Directly to the right about an inch away with be a black Spade connector. Pull back the female spade connector just enough to expose the Male Spade coming off the starter. Then take your screw driver and touch it to the Red Wire at the ring terminal, Lean the screw driver back until it touches the male spade connector. When you see sparks you should hear your Engine/Starter crank. Chances are it will start. Also note that you should be able to pull the Spade conncetor off entirely and still get the same result. I know this may sound confusing but it is very simple. My wife is an admitted blonde and you starts this car up at 11PM nighlty to Drive to work. So it is very simple. If you have any question about this then feel free to email me at grogers@direcway.com. Thanks, Gabe

I have a 90 Loyale Auto w/ Turbo 118,000 Mile son it Full time 4WD that is leaking Oil near the front of the Engine. If I am underneath the Car I can see the Oil Spewing from the front, just below where all the Pulleys are. Almost directly below where the Alternator is. I cant figure out what it is called but I can see the Oil coming out and dropping onto the Exhaust. Does anyone know what this is? Oil Pump? Thanks for any help!