sregor13

Weird I think this was posted twice. I responded to the other one. I will respond to this one as well. I would inspect the Axles or transaxles and see if you can fel anything loose down there. I have a similar problem in my 96 Impreza- Which I have determined to be within the transmission. Not sure I would call it shaking, but it might be the same thing. You may be reffering to binding, which would be bucking or jerking when turning at slow speeds, like turning into a parking lot. If it is not binding I would guess it is a Universal or CV joint Rattling. I would visually insoect the underside of the car and really grab ahold of things to see if anything is broken. I really doubt it is the transmission unless it is in fact binding as described before. If you dont see anything under there loose or broken, then inspect your Tranny Fluid to see if there is any and if it is burnt or has metal flakes in it. Thanks

Check your tires air pressure and size. Check your transmission fliud, if it is burnt or otherwise contaminated then replace it. Check the Codes. If still not able to solve it then plan on replacing the Clutch plates and seals/seal rings on the Transfer Clutch. Thanks

I would not use the engine from the 90. There are little thing that make it worth it to either fix yours or find a 2nd gen 2.2 ( I think your is a second gen) For exaple the crank sensor for my 90, was about $377, a crank sensor for yours is like $80. I am not sure what Josh and Cougar mean by "rebuilding" But I would reaplce the Head Gasket and all the other seals along with timing belts and the whole 9 yards. I dont think you can machine the heads. I would try it myself but I know my mechanic would charge $900 to fix yours. Just to give you a ball park. I think it will take you about 15 hours to do that Job.

I will buy the working parts of your air suspension. I also have a 94 Legacy w/ Air Ride. I dont know exactly whats wrong with mine. I would buy this car in the blink of an eye. Thanks

Dont know how many miles are on it, but I would go ahead and take care of all the seals when you do the timing belts and waterpump. You might try and change the thermostat first just because it is cheap and easy. A good radiator flushing might also do the trick. You can do that when you do the belts. I had somehow melted the Speedo Cable on my 90 Loyale. Might be what happened on yours if it running hot. I got one cheap in the Market place. Also my Loyale is full time 4WD. There is a 15Amp Fuse Holder under the hood on the Drivers Side right by the Firewall. When you put a fuse in there it puts the car into front wheel drive for servicing.

The Air Suspension needs more maintenance than most people are willing to do. There is one guy on the board that can give all the details. So I doubt the original owner maintained the Airbags. Most of the Experts recommend ditching the Air Struts and replacing w/ conventional. My 96 Impreza had some mice chew some wires , so I wouldnt rule that out as a possibe cause for the brakelight issue. Might just be old wires. But yes I have many many hours of electrical troubleshooting on an 87 GL-10. The good news is they are very easy to work on and the 4WD is worth its weight in gold. I always have liked the 87 GL-10. You have a great car. If you really want to hear some car woes then I could talk about my Chevy Truck, but I wont get into that.

Ok thanks, I am pretty sure I bypassed that by Jumpering the wires earlier. Thanks

So the 87 EA82T is a digital Dash, is that going to be a problem going into the 86? Thanks

I have a 86 Subaru GL FWD Hatchback with a 1600 engine rumored to be bad. I also have an 87 GL Turbo Wagon confirmed to be rusted to all get out. The 86 is a 4 Speed Manual the 87 I believe is a 5 Speed Pushbutton. I want to put all I can inot the 86 3-Door Hatchback. So I guess the first question is about the engine. Is it an easy swap? Also what about the transmission? Thanks

I have found that the most important things to tell them is the size of the engine, 1.8 1800, or 1.6 1600. Non Turbo as stated and Wagon. Often I cant bring in the old part because if I take it off my car wont run to the Auto parts Store or I lose the part. One important thing is to eyeball the situation and try to get the Manager or the guy that all the other clerks ask questions to. They have been hiring a lot of people her in town that only know FORD and Chevy. A good auto parts stor clerk knows Subaru.........and likes them.

Ok, took my wire off the Solenoid. Ran a wire straight from the battery with the key in the on position and started up fine. Tested the back of the ignition switch. The Black and white wire gave off 12V when I cranked the key. So I went all the way to the end of that line right where it would normally connect to the Solenoid and it still was giving off 12V upon Cranking. So capped that off for now and hooked up the switch indepentantly. The Switch is ran from a green wire by where the radio used to be. It appears to be a Constant 12V hot line. That runs into the Switch and the other goes striaght to the Solenoid. I have been just using a Multi-meter to check for juice on these wires. Like I said, the Black and White Wire that is typically hooked up to the solenoid is producing 12V when I crank the key. I have not hooked it up at this point. I have hooked up the wire coming from my Pushbutton Switch. It does produce 12V when I push the button. This will crank the starter, and the car will start when the key is turned to the on position ( not start but acc on) Just to note, the wire going to the Pushbutton is a Constant 12V Lead. I might make it switchable at some point, at this time it is not. So can anyone expliain what the inhibit switch does? Is there any thing else I can do until it starts to screw up again? Thanks

You would adjust it the same way you adjust the cluctch. ON the back side of the clutch fork is a cable that goes to your brake cylinder. Just loosen it or tighten it as needed. The Hill Holder cable is opposite the Clutch cable. So you may need to tweak the Clutch adjustment as well- not sure Thanks

If you know his address you can take him to court. (small claims) Sueing him might get your money back.

BTW, someone else out there probably knows better than I, but I don't believe there were ever any 4 speed Auto trannies nor dual range auto trannies installed in Loyales. Yours must be a transplant, correct? I will write more later, but mine is not a transplant. It is a 4 Speed Auto Turbo 90 Loyale with Full Time 4WD. I dont even think it was called AWD for this model. Also is goes Drive 3rd 2nd and then there is a hold button below all that that I think is supposed to denote a 1st Gear. Thanks

Okay I have a 12V lead going to the switch and then from the Switch to the Starter. So that if the key is on and I push the button then it sends 12V to the Starter Spade Terminal. I was mistaken about the Ground. I was thinking of a toggle. Needless to say I just used a Hot lead from where the Radio used to be. I am pretty sure it is a switch 12V but it might be a constant. For some reason this is not working. However I think I should note that the usual wire that hooks on to the Spade Terminal is also on the same terminal. The wire from the Pushbutton and the usual wire are crimped together and both on the spade terminal on the back of the starter. BTW What is the Spade Terminal? Is that the solenoid? Does the pushbutton need to be going directly to the big red positive lead on the back of the starter next to the Spade Terminal? Thanks

Diet Coke Here a suggestion Go to the nearest Burger King, Order a Whopper Value Meal and then drink a regular Coke because it is delicous and then when done refill your cup with Diet Coke and take it to your car and clean the corrosion away. Use the straw that comes with to spread the diet coke. This should work well, if nothing else you had a delicous meal. But I assure you DC is just what the Doctor ordered. IMO

True it might work without. The Haynes Manual and Mitchell-on-Demand call for Blue RTV. Probably overkill, but I will say that mine leaked at first without the RTV. I think it might be due to threads on the bolts being a little worn and not being able to ( or being afraid to torque to factory spec) I am glad to know that no sealant is needed. I do recommend it anyways but dont use to much becasue I think I read a thread where the RTV was on so thick it slowed the movement of the Water Pump Fan itself along with Water Flow. If mothing else the RTV makes it easier to put on the Gasket without getting it cocked and whatnot. Thanks

I have this thing that is a wire with a couple of metal poins on it ( knida like the points on a cheap Soldering Iron) Anyways on the handle is a red l.e.d. Is this a test light? Just to note the black and yellow wire and the black and white were jumpered to bypass the N.S.S. As I recall the black and white wire was coming from the Ignition switch and the Back and yellow wire was going to the starter. Or perhaps visa versa. Regardless, should I put the test light on after the jumpered connection? I did test the Voltage on the wire that leads to the Solenoid Spade Connnector. It had 12V. I will go check it out. On the inhibit switch are you saying to test before and after the Sitch. If so do you have any idea where the switch is located? Thanks

Diet coke

Who can recommend what fliuds go into a 90 Loyale Differential and also do i just use regular old ATF for the tranny. I need to flush this system bad. I got diff fliud spraying out where the cap screws in and it smells like buring 90 Wieght all the wat to Riverton. So any thought would be great. If nothing else I hope someone just has a manual with this basic info in it. Thanks, Gabe

Okay the problem has returned. Sometimes the car starts fine, other times when turning the key there is a long pause before it starts ( a moment of silence preceding), and yet other times I have to click click click it until it catches and starts. Very scary when having a hungry baby in you car in a Walmart Parking lot. Consistently one thing that actually will start the car without fail is by arching the Spade terminal with the Battery lead that goes in the back of the Starter. ( I do this with a very long screwdriver) This should tell us something. I need help and I need it quick. This car is about to be used by a single mother of two and winter is right around the corner. So i tried the switch idea as a temporay fix until some genius is able to peice together the puzzle of this dilema and solve the problem entirely.- I put in a push button and had it set up as such- The button had a known to be good positive lead ran to one side and a good ground on the other. The switched lead ran to the spade terminal on the back of the starter ( I believe this to be the solenoid-not sure). So this would send 12 V to the terminal just like turning the key should do. This worked great as long as the key was in the off position. Now it is not even working at all! So I really in a bind. I have a starter from a 90 Legacy, not sure if it will work in this ride, but if someone can help me troubleshoot this I would be very greatful. Thanks Gabe

I am not an expert but I know that not all EA82's have them under the hood. I found mine as described under the tank by the RR Wheel. So ther may be a discrepancy there. But I highly recommend paying the price for an OEM Filter. They should outlaw the FRAM ones sold at Walmart. IMO they are Junk for Subaru's Thanks

I bought the Bosch platinums and put them in not knowning any better. I have noticed improvement greatly. I dont think I was running the NGK's. But anyways I think you are not supposed to gap the Bosch Platinums. Dont know for sure but that is what it said on the package. Thanks

better get that fixed properly soon. I just put a new clutch in my 85 Wagon. The Clutch Cable broke and the jury rig job done by my nephew who was driving it has now ruined my clutch. It got patched with hardware Store Accesories and was pulling at a slightly wierd angle. The cable pulled the release lever off of the throw out bearing. So know I have to pull the engine again to put it back together. Short Story- Do it right. What kind of car is this? Thanks

Blue RTV Sealant is recommended. Clear works but just use the blue if you can. If you use the Gasket Scraper ( I did because it was the same price as a Jug of Coolant) then scrap away the old gasket the best you can. I then would clean it with your usual cleaner. I used brake cleaner because it was ready at hand. Then wipe and let dry. Put a bead on the water pump itself and let it dry for just a second, then put on your Water Pump Seal and hold it there until the room temperature vulcanizing sealant starts to vulcanize (or whatever it does) and holds the gasket in place. Then throw another bead on top of the gasket and slap the Waterpump on. Get all of your bolts (I think there is five), dabbed with the RTV and put them in semi-tight, let them sit for ahwhile before the final torque. If you have the Metal Coolant tube coming out the the side of your WP then put a new O-ring on there (apply small amount of coolant to o-ring for lube) Liberally apply RTV to the tube. Slap in the tube and bolt it down. Wipe away excess RTV from edges of waterpump. Let the RTV cure for at least 6 Hours, 24 is better. When I bought my WP on Ebay for like 20 Dollars it came with the Water Pump, the Gasket and the O-ring. It has been working great.