sregor13

Perform a Visual Inspection of the wires to and from you alternator. Make sure your connection os solid. Also check the battery terminals and wires. Make sure it is clean and snug. Then you may want to pull your sterrinf wheel and inspect all the wires in your combination switch and take a good look at the ignition switch to make sure they are all looking good. The back plate of your ignition switch might have worked loose. That might explain the smoke and trouble starting. Dont think it would effect your Voltage Gauge but you might have more than one problem going on.

I dont know, could be a short I guess. You might have a Faulty Voltage Regulator in you Alternator. Have you put an aftermarket Stereo in there? You also might check all of your Fusible Links to make sure there cool.

Is this car an automatic? If so you want want to take the little wire of the Starter and see if juice is geting to the starter. I had this problem in my 90 Loyale. I bypassed the Nuetral Safety Switch and all has been good since. Also might be you starter switch. The puff of smoke could have come from there or it could be coming from your Combination Switch.

I told my Locksmith the story and he said if you can get those 4 Numbers of the original key and the VIN he will cut a key for you and I will ship it to you for no cost.

Soor y dont know the part number, but I did want to say that the Heat Shielding Subaru originally used is insufficient. (IMO) I would get some tubing and heat sheild from the Hardware Store if all else fails. My Turbo melted the OEM tubing. I diagnosed it as cheap heat shielding- One trip to Ace and I have been without problems since. Good Luck!

This may sound wierd but make your your alternator connection is solid. Along with battery and all. I know you said you are getting spark. It is still possible that the alternator lead does not have a 5x5 Connection. This has killed my 87 GL more than once. Good luck, Hope to hear what the problem is was? p.s. You say it is getting fuel, hopefully enough, hows the Fuel Filter looking? If you were mud bogging you could have jostled loose some debris in your Gas Tank (i.e. Rust) It might have plugged your Filter enough to slow pressure. I know this will piss some people off but if all else fails try some Sea Foam.

I am going to attempt to Fix the Oil leaks on my 90 Subaru Loyale EA82 Engine. I will be replacing the following. Timing Belts Oil pump seals/O-rings Cam Shaft Seals/O-rings Front Crank shaft seals Water Pump That is everything I can think off. First question- Is there anything else I should do while I am in there? Second Question- Do I need to pull the Engine or can get to everything by pulling the Radiator and Alternator? I have never attempted this and my car has 120,000 Miles on it. It is leaking like a siv. Dripping from the timing belt covers and such. Also, Third question- Should I leave the timing belt covers off? I am going to try to take pictures of the entire process. Seems like the only weak point of the EA82 is the leaking oil issue. I have searched through the threads but I have not seen a single comprehensive set of intructions to doing this Project. I would like to wright a tutorial for this process while I am at it. I assume that there is more I should do while I am in there. I would appreciate any feedback about this subject. If you can think of anything else, I need to do, or replace while I am in there please let me know. Thanks, Gabe

When you put the car into drive it takes what seems like an abnormal amount of time to engage. Does this indicate a problem with the tranny? I haven't been able to drive because of a leaky Gas Tank. So is there anything I can do to deal with this possible tranny issue before I start driving it? Thanks, Gabe

Yes I did try to start the car in neutral, additionally in every other gear. NO go. I assume this might have something to do with the Transmission issues. Perhaps even the Shift Selector arm cited in the recall for this car. I hope I get all of the issues worked out. Thanks, Gabreil

OKay I found the big black plug. It was under the hood and the Black and Yellow Wire & Black and White wires were there. I jumpered them and so far so good. Thanks to everyon that helped get this figured. So we can say that on a 4 Speed Automatic Tranny the Wires to bypass the nuetral safety switch are under the hood about 12-16 Inches away from the Tranny.

Sorry to be dense, but I want to make sure I got this clear. When you say "look for the harness thet plugs all the rest of the wires." Do you mean in the shifter area?" Also I am not sure if mine is a 4 Speed or a 3, that HOLD Button is supossed to contitute a gear insn't it? Thanks

Yea whats with this A hole charging 10 Dollars for shipping on that one. I once paid 10 Dollars for shipping on one CD on Ebay. I had to because it was the only seller with the Disc. It was advertised as a 94 Subaru Manual on CD. Turns out it was 83-2002 Subaru Manaul. It covers just about anything. The seller got booted from ebay shortly thereafter. Turns out they were selling bootleg copies of Mitchell-on-Demand.

Not sure about the 93 but there should be some screws on the bottem sides. You may also need to take aprt part of the Shifter area to get to some of these screws. I know that you have to on my 96 Impreza. The Shifter Plastic either overlaps the peice you need of or it is in the way. Cant remember. If you cant figure it out right away then write back and I will take a flkashlight out to my 94 right now.

Okay I got the Shifter Area pulled apart and I am not sure where the Switch is. I know there is a Black/White going to my starter. So I was thinking I might find a Black/Yellow in there some where. I see two wires going over to the Light Bulb for the Shifter and then there a four wires going to the HOLD Button. Do you think the Switch is under the carpet somewhere? Thanks

Thats true. I forgot about the Aluminum thing. Makes sense.

Sorry I was confused. I thought you said it only worked on the Locks and Ignition. I thought it was a Valet Key. Keeps the Valet Guy from getting into your trunk and glovebox. Either way, no I re-read your post. Yes he is right. It might be a little worn so the cut isnt good enough. Especially with an Automatic Machine. If thats the case I would just take it to an actual locksmith and have them cut it. Alot of those retails stores dont calibrate there Key Machines very often and they dont cut quite as precise as a locksmith. If that is the master key then it should have those numbers stamped on them and you can get a locksmith to make one of those numbers with a code reader.

Thats what it sounded like. I could hear it and it sounded like it was in there. Thats what I was afraid of. Thanks

What kind of car are we talking about?

They should make those for Trannies. But seriously I think it is worth it if is only 10 Bucks. It wont hurt to try, especially if it is only 10 Bucks. Better than spending the 10 Bucks on Beer IMO.

I used this guy Tom at Iron Horse Transport. He was great to work with and saved me a few hundred dollars. He is not listed on the Web, but I trust him more than anyone on the Web. His number is 407-876-3501. I dont know how often he checks his email. But I have known him to answer my calls on Sunday. He is real good about getting back in touch with you and everything else. Anyways he can list you car on a site that thousands of Truckers look at. You can set the amount you want to spend and truckers will either take the Job or not. He can explain all the details. I will just add that he was able to get my car moved in one day. The other places said it would take close to 3 Weeks. Almost to weeks to get it picked up and another 7-10 Days to get it delivered. Anyways that is an option.

Can any one tell where the Door Chime is on this car. Or how to disable it. I am willing to pull the whole dash to tear the chime out. Thanks

I switch out the Fusible Links and the car still would not start. Also I could jump it from the solenoid whether the car was in Park Drive or Nuetral. So I dont think it was the Neutral Safety Switch. Did I mention that sometimes if I crank it about 20 Times it sometimes catches and starts. Is that usually a Solenoid issue?

You are the first to explain it like that. I have still seen this disputed. Are you saying the Solenoid is Open when the Fuse is in because there is a milivolt running to it, Therefore potentionally it will burn out the Solenoid?

Keys that only work on the locks and ignition are called Valet Keys. When you but a car you should get a Master Key and a Valet. or just the master. These guys at the dealership are unusually lazy. They should make you a key pronto. I would like to know the name of this dealer so I never do business with them. If you want to solve this easily take out your passenger door lock and get the 3 or four numbers written on there. Our local Locksmith in this podunk town chages me $8 to make a key from these numbers. The number should also be on the ignition and is usually on the Master Key which it sounds like you donht have. It is just might be easier to take out the Lock instead of the Igntion. I am just dimayed by the incometence of your dealer. If you dont want to post there name on the Board please PM me/. Thanks

Your right there is a lot of opinions saying that no harm will be caused from driving with the Fuse in. A lot of people have tried to make the above claim. No one has been able to give a scientific explanation. Someone tried once and it sounded very convincing but the next user shot them down. So I drive with it in.