sregor13

Have you check the all of your tires are the same size? Measure them if possible.

Consider getting some MB Quart Component for your stock holes. The ones I had went from 18Hz to 23Khz. Covering the full range of human hearing. They are not cheap but they are worth every penny. Thus the Germans do know how to make some great electonics.

The 92 is hands down the best Subaru I ever owned. it was a 92 Legacy Touring Wagon LE Wagon. So it came loaded with turbo and and te whole 9 Yards. Definatley a sweet ride. Enjoy!

Even if the naked eye shows the same amount of wear I would still measure them. Tires that are all the same size and even the same manufacturer can deviate beyong the safe zone of what is needed on the AWD. My mechaninc showed me this when I was having some binding problems.

It has been my expereince that if it makes the noise when you are not pressing on the brakes, then your Pads are gone. I would get it right away so you rotors dont get damaged.

If it is a Manual it can be towed in Nuetral, any distance. If it is an Automatic then it should is should be towed on a flatbed. But like the others mentioned it wont hurt it for short distances like that.

Yes I had already checked the Fusible Link when I posted. Or Links I shoulds say. As far as the Pushbutton goes I have considered it but I am going to sell this or give it to my sister and I dont want to Jury rig anything. Thanks

Thanks Glen , now that you mention the Neutral Safety Switch. I am compelled to mention this 4EAT Recall for my Car. It covers the Swift Lever Arm on the Transmission that may be out ot Spec. This make the car think it is in reverse when it is actually in park. Or something to that effect. I have not actually been able to get the recall fixed yet. The nearest Sub Dealer is about 200 Miles Away. Do you think this may be significant? Thanks

I have never actually used an under seat amp/sub. They seem cool but simply not something I would use standalone. If nothing else I would just build a box for the rear. I bet your sytem will sound great. I just like the 20-45 Hz Frequency to much to use a Butt kicker or what not. I am now curious and will look into that. Thanks

Sorry, I was just thinking of what good uses there were for Duct Tape. The only thing I could think of was detaining villians. If there ever were any.

Lef tme know if you need a part for your fan. My 87 might have it. Thanks

I dont recommend running without that fan. Try some three in one oil or something like Quick Lube. I have had firsthand experience with two Subaru's in Wyoming overheating because they were missing a fan. What Year is this car again? [ Insert Rhetoric here- make sure to quote and pontificate and then make fear based command]

Make note when you get it fixed. I have often wondered about this and I would like to know how they fix it. I imagine they make an Upholtsery Epoxy that you could dob it with and smooth it over and Viola. I never could figure it out so I just watch the holes get bigger. Duct tape is a good option for detaining villians until the authorites arrive, and other situations where esthetics are not involved.

Thanks for the replies and I appreciate your input. Just to clarify. As mentioned in the original post, I have changed the Starter once already. Doesnt mean its not the Starter but Odds are it is something else. Could be wrong about that one. Let me say this- When I jump it from the Solenoid it Starts 100% of the time. Becasue of this I do no believe it to be battery related. I believe the Problem exists either between the Starter and the Starter Switch or the Solenoid is the Problem. Or that another electrical problem exists that is somehow killing the Solenoid or causing some other whacky stuff. Or all of the above. Or there is an of chance that there is some kind of Ground issue going on. "are you sure all your wires are clamped tight and free of corrosion?" I know what you mean, I have expereinced this before and it is not the problem with this car. It has no rust or corrosion and I am getting 14.4V 5 by 5. I need an expert in Subaru Starter systems to give me the lowdown on how it works. This is a scientific question.

The 2001 Outback either comes with 4 Speakers or 8. I hate to say it but I would probably try to get the one with only 4. I try to use Infinity's wherever possible. The ones in the above Photo wont directly fit in the 01 But there is a Infinity Reference 6.5 Inch Shallow Fit that will fit in both the Front and Rear doors. One of my reasons to get the Impreza was because it actually would fit Infinity's Perfect line which is two steps above the Reference Series. The reference series is great though as well. I have them in my Acura and it sounds great. They just dont handle much power and they wear out quicker. You can power those with your Factory Head or better yet an Aftermarket Receiver. The Infinity Reference is about equal to what comes stock in your Jeep. I think they were using what was called the Infinity Gold in your Jeep which is made by harmon just for Jeep/ Chrysler etc.. They are about the same as the references. One problem with the 8 Speaker Setup is that unless you want to power all of your Speakers with an Amp then I wouldnt know how to to wire 8 Speakers into an aftermarket Head Unit and I would definately want an Aftermarket unit at some point. Simply because the Subaru Unit would not have the Features I look for in a Receiver. I think you would be lucky if you got the NON- PREMIUM sound system and threw in 4 of those Shallow Infinity Reference Speakers and a new Head Unit. Maybe someday get a Sub in there, something simple like the Infinity Basslink and your car would sound great.

I have a 90 Loyale 4x4 Turbo Wagon Automatic. When I turn the Key typically nothing happens. Sometimes you can hear a faint click. Occasionally, if I keep cranking it will fire up eventually. However it always starts if I take a SCrewdriver and touch the big red positive lead to the Spade on the Back of the starter. I think this is called jumping it from the Solenoid. Anyways, I changed the Starter and this did not correct the problem. Does anyone know what would cause this. I also changed the Ignition switch. I think it goes from the Switch to the Starter and then to the Coil. The only thing I see between the Starter and the coil is a little round Fuse type thingy on the inside of the car by the fusebox. It look almost like a Flasher. But anyways I know the Starter Switch wires go through that before they get to the starter. I have seriously tried alot of thing s and i need help troubleshooting. Thanks, Gabe

Let me qoute myself to clear up you thinking that what I said was dumb "They make some of the best electronics available. I dont know about there automotive. But they certainly make some of the worlds greatest electronics." I didnt say they make the best- I said they make "some of" I stand by that statement. Japanese also make great electronics. I think it dumb to trash on VW just to prove how great Subaru is..........tipsy, fuddled, boozy , groggy, elevated, prime did edit her

I prefer Subaru's over VW or anything else. I think a couple of the GL's I owned were assembled in Mexico. I dont have proof, but when I buy parts I am asked if I have the North American Model or the North Amercian Model. I know Mexico is in North America. I have been there more than once. I think Japanese make great electronics. So do Germans. As far as cars go, there are some very nice Germans Cars. Ever ride in a BMW? They are sweet. By the way Subaru's are not cheap, or cheap to work on.

Wouldnt know what it was like in any 03 Car. The 96 Impreza is about as firm as they get.

What electrical problem are people referring to?

Funny you should say that becasue I got my 96 Subaru impreza Outback becasue the previous owner just wanted a Miata. 90% of the reason he got rid of the Impreza is becasue the sits were so uncomfortable. I would agree the Impreza is nice but I think I would enjoy it more if it had the Seats from my old 86 Golf GTI. Which, by the way got, around great in the snow and to this date has had no electrical problems. Cant say the same for my 87 GL Wagon and my 90 Loyale.

If you dont have money to buy a Chiltons then you probably don't have the money for a wiring harness. Even yet, I strongly encourage you to get a Harness. I got one recently from Circuit City that was kinda pricey, but I know this company metra <http://www.metraonline.com/> makes cheap ones that work just fine.

I understand the need for a hobby, so more power to you on that one. I would like to hear how much you can build it for. The last hitch I saw for a 94 Legacy was $50. I can't get metal that cheap. Would love to be proven wrong. Labor and material, whats it going to cost you?

I have a 87 GL-10 Turbo that I am parting out but it is a manual. Dont know if it would work. If you find that it will then email me. Thanks

You could buy it now for $495. You could get a title for it in Wyoming. Just need a VIN. If it doesn't have one of those you can stampo a Serial number into it.