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mtnman38

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Everything posted by mtnman38

  1. yea i found the same three boltts im going to open the top one so just fill it until the fluid coms out the hole right,, ARE any other subaru trannies like this ?? 4speed D/R 5 speed D/R back with details THANKS
  2. OK heres the deal the tranny shifts clean, up and down, has good responsivness But as you increase your speed the noise gets louder and louder Does not change or variate just getts louder . Does not change with manipulatoin of the clutch. I put the car up in the air and ran it. (all at idiol speed) the noise getts louder in each gear but does not stop or change upon clutch depression. Ive tried mutiple additive to no avail and its at the correct fluid level NO change in 4WD Any ideas or am I back to my market place post Thanks LT
  3. What about getting your disty recurved I know that this will drop that power band. but you lose at the top LT
  4. HMMM Well I guess that could be? I forgot to mention this but the engine ran fine before I put the water in it so if the plugs were blown they would make a bunch of racket YES/NO? either way I think its time to find it a new home not my home HA HA thanks todd for your input LT
  5. YO welll thanks to CABAROO and friends I got the caliper issued fixed olted right up, Fixed the shift linkage pin so that it would go in reverse cleand up my shop had closure,, Yea so I thought I was just doing my pre ignition check list (oil, water ,whatnot) and relized that it was low on antifreeze no big deal right? So I poured a jug in just to fire it up and the adjust the levels later after ciculation Got In fired her up , she started and ran for about 1 second tthen died so tried to turn her over again with no avail So Im thinking battery or starter connection. I get out pop the hood and much to my surprize MY valve covers have become a depressing chocolet fountain Water/oil mix was just gushing out of both sides not the perfered suby response Any one know why, Is it something simple or broken water jacket (ea71) thanks LT
  6. Does any one know if a brake caliper off an 82-84 wagon or hatch will fit the front of a 1978 4wd wagon LT
  7. Yea chances are that it would run out befor I got there Your Time will come in the grand suby evaloution or is that revalution ( either way its still not spelled right ) Oh well no grades for spelling HUH LT
  8. Ok. I found an 88 EFI wagon with broken timing belts. I fixed that after two attempts. (Thanks guys) She runs like a top. My 78 wagon fired up today after a little coaxing, the coil was crossfiring and mice had eaten through the spark plug wires. After replacing that two cranks and she started right up. The only issue is no reverse; but I think it's only a linkage problem (any insight?) and the right front caliper is siezed. Will a caliper from an 82 wagon or hatch fit? I got two wagons from a guy and he said that the 78 had blown head gaskets. But the 78 runs clean; no smoke and no antifreeze in the oil. Compression test at 145 per cylinder so it seems alright to me. The 82 wagon he said it had bad number one cylinder. But after checking the oil and putting 3 qts. in it fired up and ran quiet, but does blow a little blue smoke. Today has been a good day in SubaruLand. Every Subaru I touch today wants to live. Thanks again for all of your assistance. LT
  9. ARRG Thanks for info thats what I did .I read the page you suggested it was pretty clear what i need to do .You were right no mention of this in my hanes maunal I seem to be have alot of DEJAVOO lately Well it should come off easer the second time HAHAHA Thanks again all LT
  10. Hmmm well I know what I am doind today DEJAVOO I have to turn what? WHERE and pull all that ##$*^ $%^& off again well it should be easery the second timeoh no mention of this in my haynes manual but I believe ya well thanks again to all And I m off to it LT
  11. Right On that fixed the problem. Im not used to these efi types guess i need to get with the times huh well thanks for you help fellow suby addicts Bad news she still wont start so I geuss I start looking for other problems Timeing or the unthinkable? Mucho thanksLT
  12. ok I just got an 88 efi wagon with ea82 it had a broken timeing belt(drivers side) I replaced both belts lined up every thing put it all back together and now theres a diffrent problem when I turn on the key the fuel pump goes and stopes about 2 second interval. But heres the kicker it doesent stop just keeps punpming in same interval even when Im not turning the car over. I put 5 gallons of gas in the tank and it spits fuel out of the line @ the TBI. and you can hear the fuel squirting into the intake could this be the regulator or a relay Has any one had a similar problem? Any insight would bee AWSOME thanks LT
  13. Yea thats what I thought . The guy on the phone must be a tool ( not uncommon for napa) present company not included of course. Hey thanks jerry be talking to ya soon for a kit shes almost ready just waiting for 3x4 lift pk davis is sure hard to get a hold of I have been waiting for a lift for a few months still dont know how close it is to being done o well it will be worth it when shes don chasing toyota's off the trail Ha ha ha thanks again LT
  14. ok got my ea81 out and ready to put the spare in. Re-sealed oil pump put new rear main and put in new front main. So here is my question . On the main crank pully there is a groove ( not narley but it can be felt) from the main seal in the metal. A new pulley is 110$ from subaru. They dont offer a speedy sleeve (subaru,westbay,napa) is there a specific clearance that I can get buy with ,with out leaks or some other solution? Or am I over engineering thanks LT
  15. Thanks for the intel looks like Im pulling motor and gear box today Thanks again LT
  16. Hey thanks Morgan for the input checked all the weights their all there. this problem has been here for a while thru three diffrent sets of wheels and tires and yes solid diff no carrier ( that is until I get my 5speed in and talk Qman out of his custom driveline ha ha ha ok back to the noise it seems to be there even when I rev the engine above 2500 rpms its just not loud enough inside the car while driving until I accelerate over 2500 rpms in all gears also I can feel it in the trans Piolet bearring ?or main bearings in rear of crank? maybe fly wheel ARGGG any input would be SWEEEET!! Thanks LT
  17. Hey thanks, But I just put new pugs and tires on and theres no mud/snow anywhere. And this problem happened before wheel swap no change. any further thoughts? LT
  18. hey Heep 70 and I sort of did this same thing we just put a big floof juch under the rear and put 2x6 lumber under the front ball joints like skies and pulled her right out then got her on the trailer with a comealong ang away he went this is assuming that your shop and drive are cement or asfault LT
  19. Ok heres my probleem I have a low rumble@and after 2500 rpms. It sounds like its comming from the center of the car. It does not matter what gear Im in. after 2500 It getts louder but only happens durring acceleration after I get off the throttle it goes away instantly heres what I have done to try and remedy this. new tranny mounts , motor mounts not new but they are fully intact(I pulled them and tried to pry the rubber apart no luck) new U joints freshend rear diff, and i pulled an exhuast off of my other hatch that has all of the right clearances(at least 2 in from anything) crawled under and looked for rubbing or any sign of bashing but no dice. All of my cvs are good, the engine valve covers are 2.25 inches from inside frame rails , so its centered in the hole, mounts are tight Tranny replaced but I got it from a jy but seems solid in all gears smoothe shifting, replaced all of the linkage rubber for fwd and tranny so no clanging from them Please help She sound like shes comming apart LT oh yea new ball joints and wheel bearings, struts ok
  20. hey Its a z24 motor I dont know if it is carbed or efi I thnk its carbed but I coiuld be way off Ill do some checking
  21. greetings all Ok I found a 86 nissian 4wd 5speed extended cab truck with a Z motor will this transfer case and axels work for T-case conversion if so is 500 for the whole truck worth it it has a cylinder thats dead? Thanks all
  22. hey thanks to all Supa Supa Q man: you still need the carrier bearring even though the stock drive line doesent have one? and how much you want for it? Jerry: thanks for measurements What are your insights on this carrier bearring thing? LT
  23. Does anyone know/remember the drive line length for a 84 hatch 5 speed 4wd d/r conversion. I have the wagon drive line can this work if I just use one section of it? Or does it have to be made custom for each car? I could not find anything specific about this in the archives. thanks LT
  24. I say U joints Then trans/motor mounts. My hatch did this just as I would reach 2700 rpms and up I did the trans/ mount rebuild using the 3M widow goop( dicussed in forum trans mount search) now its solid If you donT want to make them Anchor has them for 20.00 thats the chaepest I have found. I hate to sat it but I recently went thru the same headach before getting to the source hope this helps LThttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=235898#
  25. OK these or for the sside windows if you need the big one in the hatch I can measure it also My perception of your post is you want to put "hatchback" in place of the $WD on the one in the pic LT
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