mikie

Thats rather cool! Im not a trike person i admit, but that is nice.

Im not sure about what a 1092 bulb is, but the standard indicator bulb with the single contact bayonet base is usually a 12v/21watt, current draw when lit theoretically 1.6 amps each at 13v but probabaly a lot higher initially. I think you will be on the limits of youre breaker.

The CI part number is RPM397N-SSC, apparently they have them on the shelf in aus. Heavy duty cover and sprung puck plate.

Youre clutch plate should be interchangeable with any wrx plate, they are the same spline and should both me 9". You could get an aftermarket ceramic with a sprung centre, or Clutch industries in aus even make a ceramic plate with sprung centre and leaves so you keep most driveability but get a decent upgrade in power handling. You would probably have to get youre cover rebuilt as a heavier unit, unless CI do upgraded EA82 covers as well.

Thats awesome, thanks for going to all that trouble. The info on the auto trans will be very helpful for me too, i hope ytou dont mind others making use of it.

Thats mine, it seemed like a good idea at the time! The inline engine would allow more room for a driveshaft to pass beside the engine than an subie engine, i didnt have a subie engine, and i did have a 4age. And if you havent driven a 4age then borrow one, the engines are unbelievable. About the time youd be changing gear with an EA82 the 4age suddenly gets up and goes... i think rev cutout is 8100 rpm and it loves going there. That vehicle is pretty crude i admit, but it got chopped and changed a lot. And its more robust than it looks, that chain drive has handled everytihng so far, including fwd only tarseal abuse tests. A good friend of mine is building a much more refined model with an EA82T + auto box. Im now building a hopefully even more refiend EJ20 dohc model.

I dont know either, but heres the EJ shifter setup to help you decide. I think it looks very similiar to the EA82 setup, and the action (fwd/back/left/right) is the same.

Sorry, i was refering to the spline count on the axle itself, not the spline count on the gearbox. So for legacy you have 25/22 and 25/30 (trans/axle) and for leone etc you can have a squillion combinations inc 23 and 25 trans side and 22,23,27 and maybe more axle side.

The legacies have the bigger gearbox spline and then either 22 or 30 spline axles. The ea82 subies use 22 spline rear axles, the front are usually bigger, 22, 23 and 27 exist at the very least.

Looks good! Im tinged a shade of jealous!

For youre peace of mind it wouldnt hurt to change it anyway. Its not an expensive part, youll have the time and while youre there inspect the tensioner bearing and oil seals as well. Then you KNOW its good for the next 60,000 at least if its a keeper

You can get a variety of aftermarket and factory centres for the viscous setup. The factory makes 10,15 and 20 kg-something rated viscous diffs, the 10 is standard issue and the 20kg is so near locked it might as well be, its a rally item.

Shipping would be stupidly expensive i imagine. There must be some legacies over there somewhere like this. I admit its the first and only one ive seen in NZ thou. We miss out on much cool stuff over here that you folks get a heap of, but we do have JDM cars in oversupply. baccaruda, what do you mean by VIN ? The picture of the vehicle id plate is what i would have called the VIN, the chassis code has the relevant info for the model, at least BF3 indicates a EJ18 4wd station wagon. Now for the mix n match part.... The other legacy i saw recently had a push button 4wd locking centre diff. There are plenty of them with 4.444 front and rear diffs. The lo ratio gears from a EA box *might* fit into this EJ box. It bolts to the EJ22. The potential product would be very cool. Thats what i was driving at.

You need to measure it up, i know they had a suzuki V6 but the subve engine is much wider, and dont forget the exhausts and the clearance needed for them

That would work, just carefully select your tires and profiles, and also be aware of tire pressures causing variations in rollign diameter

Sorry to be a killjoy but i dont htink it will work- if it is a gtx diff then you have 2 diffs, one inside the other. The outer is the 'centre diff', it is a planatary setup. One side of it drives a gear that goes to the bevel right angle drive to the rear axle. The other side is directly coupled the the housing of the front diff, which is inside. So you have a rather clever compact setup, for a transverse mounted engine. I cant seeing it being converted into a sube easily. But OTOH, modifing a viscous centre diff so it can be locked might be doable. If its out of another mazda then i am ready to be corrected.

JDM legacy. Model code BF3CK3N, trans code TY752XE2AA. Engine is EJ18. Found in wreckers yard. This appears to be a full time 4wd box with hi/lo ratio and 4.11 final drive... this got me interested so i went back and took photos. It also has a carbed inlet manifold, which may be adaptable onto an Ej22, and a distributor that runs of the rh bank, the EJ22 has a blank off plate over the hole. Ideal for simple EJ conversion. Both had already been sold of this wagon. This trans would be ideal for an EJ conversion into an EA-powered vehicle... but further more i wonder if the gearsets would interchange with EA d/r boxes, they have exactly the same ratios i believe, same clutch input shaft spline. You could make a 4.11 final drive EA box. or put the lockable centre diff from an ea or s/r ej box in it. or put any EJ 4.44 cw + pinion in it. match it with a 4.11 or 4.44 viscous rear diff. If the reduction is only 1.2:1 then would the 1.596:1 EA reduction gears fit ? hmmmm. If i had some spare time and too much money id buy it just to find out. the bad news however, is, its in new zealand... thats why ive posted the model codes, might be helpful to someone out there.

Maybe not rocket science, but ive seen what happend when driveshafts let go, and walking funny for the rest of youre life because a driveshaft came thru the floor doest look very pleasant! A d/shaft that lets go at the gearbox end is perfectly capable of vaulting the vehicle onto its roof. At the very least it will do serious damage to youre vehicle that you will regret. If the driveshaft is short enough it will tear the car apart, ive seen a hotrod that the shaft destroyed the gearbox, diff and battery/fueltank/seat/structure in between. The driver (a past employer) was stunned to get out without a scratch. Thats why I recommend caution to someone whos never done this before, im not trying to have a dig at you personally mate. I weld my own axles and driveshafts too with no problems so far, but thats my problem if it fails.

For driveshafts in general, the man in question is right, and obviously unwilling to take any risks, what he values his work at is a seperate issue. The reason for going to 2 piece driveshafts in the first place is to prevent bad things happening. The longer a driveshaft is the larger the diameter required to keep it rigid. The larger the diameter the heavier it is, and the more inertia you have, and the harder it is to balance. Im not an engineer, but im sure subaru have some and there is a point where splitting the driveshaft into 2 or more pieces makes sense for reliability, weight and balance. Ive seen the results of driveshafts letting go and its one thing i would always take professional advice on. If youre lucky it wont destroy youre car If Jerrys man says its ok then i'd take his word for it, but id be looking to someone with that kind of experience for advice becuase the driveshaft is something you dont want mishaps with. You DONT cut and weld in the middle, you do it at the end by the joint.

Im becoming keener on the idea of building one myself too....

You could have individual brakes on the rear wheels, its not hard to put front calipers onto the back discs and use the handbrake cable attachment, and the even brake bias is more suited to sand as well. Not trying to be rude, but heres how a subaru trans works, 4th gear isnt direct, its .972 ratio on an EA trans. Any loss of power and traction is just as important on sand:

Like the man says, 4th gear isnt 1:1 ratio. What about: mid mount the engine, use the fwd axles to drive the middle wheels, use a really short driveshaft to drive the rear diff and rear axles, and chain drive from the pinion of the rear diff to a driveshaft runing to the front diff/axles ? Minimal extra weight. Or throw a nissan 720 or lada niva transfer case in there. A chap i know built an amphib vehicle with a an ea81 engine, fwd drive shafts driving the wheels and the rear driveshaft going to a single stage jet unit. Results were poor, the wheels gave a lot of drag and the gearing hurt the jet unit, the lack of power was no help either. Ive thought about 6x6 many times, mostly cos i like the idea of lots of big tires, and mad max is the definitive offorad construciton guide. But for practical use 4x4 is still the best imho, 6x6 will add weight and drivetrain losses, and reduce the risk of getting hung up on really rough ground, but that pros dont outweigh the cons. Its just the looks

The legacy gearbox has a centre diff with a long pinion shaft. The fulltime EA box has a long pinion shaft with the same layout. The parttime 2wd/4wd ea box has the pinion as an integral part of the secondary shaft. If you want a EA d/r box with 4.11 or 4.44 gears you will have to use the fulltime 4wd EA box with the legacy final drive, its the only way of getting a pinion to fit witohut major mods.... i think. The crownwheel should be pretty straightforward, they look the same.

Got a multi-meter ? havew a look and see if the voltage is bouncing round when you turn the headlights on, or maybe the alt starts over charging or something silly. Or a poor earth is causing big voltage drop somewhere thats giving a false reading.

On topic, try it out and see how you like it. Get a spare outer cv to hold the front hub together so you can keep youres clean and complete should you want to put it back in. The one subie i drove with a missing axle was a no-traction machine, fun for a moment in the paddock because the weight distribution is all wrong for RWD, but i got over that pretty quick. And on FWD v RWD....... Those thoughtful Korean car makers produce FWD cars for handling and traction reasons, not cost. Those silly techs at Mercedes, BMW, Chrysler, GM and the like are hell bent on making more expensive RWD cars tjust because they handle worse. Or not. Ive driven FWD, RWD and AWD, and i can state with absolute certainty than the drivetrain layout is secondary to the quality of the tires and suspension setup of the car! And since all three layouts have different applications its hard to compare them in anything like an apples vs apples scenario.