mikie

FOr someone with the means to do so: It is possible to put the crownwheel in upside down, but the teeth will no longer mesh correctly with the pinion since the pinion is offset. SO.... what is needed is a re-cut pinion. Thats all. So someone needs to hunt high and low and find a R160 or R180 diff head that has the correctly cut pinion, the front diff from a datsun pickup might be a candidate, as are many other nissan / subaru vehicles. Or alternatively cut a pinion with the correct teeth. This wont work with e dual-range trans, since the dual-range and crownwheel will both want to occupy the same space. But simply flipping the trans upside down would be easier. The shifter points straight out the back of the trans, so its not an issue. The crownwheel would be high and lubrication and fluid level would have to be carefully considered. the Bellhousing would have to be redrilled/welded/dowelled but that is possible. Some one do it and prove its easy!

Have you tried banging them back from the other direction ? Ive never had them sieze in place yet, but if youres have you may never get the joint to slide off the spline either, ive had those rust in place. I imagine the pins are made from a reasonable grade of steel, you may not have much luck drilling them in place. Worst case you can pop the circlip out and leave the cup in place, and change the boot without having to get that rollpin out.

There is several model codes of 4EAT. Just looked at 3 of mine and they all have different codes, as follows: 1989 non-turbo TZ102-ZD1AA 1992 non-turbo TZ102-ZD2AA 1992 turbo TZ102-ZB2AA Externally these are identical. They all operate the same. Internally the turbo model has a slightly larger torque converter, and extra plate in the clutch packs. In practise when a workmates trans broke down (the 1992 trans above thats sitting in my backyard) we replaced it with the non-turbo trans of the same year and it works without a hitch, without even changing the ecu. I believe in practise each of these variations with its matching ECU ARE completely interchangable, although the turbo model is stronger. If anything the shift points might be remapped, we are talking about revisions of the same transmission. In about 1998 the trans changed completely to one that has a proper centre differential.

Im sure they do, perhaps just dorp them a line and enquire if youre serious. It looks like its a well made block off plate.

Ive talked to a sakar staff member a few times, they arnt far away from me. They initially used the 2wd box in their designs but found it could not handle the power, bearing in mind they were putting 450+hp thru the box on a tarmac racetrack in a vehicle intended to be thrashed. So a 2wd box might work fine for other applications, depending on availale power/torque and the tires being used and the enthusiam of the driver. They use the 4wd box from the wrx because its a stronger box, lock the centre diff with a purpose made spool and then replace the tailshaft housing with a flat plate, since theres nothing there. I imagine they now use the 6 speed box.

I guess you mean the oil feed piping, it dowsnt seem to be in the way as much as it might look in the pics. As far as i know subaru make their own transmissions from scratch.

I would use smaller diameter sprockets than the gears. Where theres a will..... theres greedy relatives. And a way.

Is it spark or fuel that is the problem. i have no wiring diagrams sorry, but the first thing to check would be the cam angle sensor on the LH cam cover is plugged in. (from drivers position)

External views: http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eatside.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eatfront.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eatlhoutput.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eatrear.jpg Internal views of clutchpack assembly, and front pinion position. Sorry, but ive disassembled the front 'bellhousing' and reclaimed the scrap value from this particular trans. http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_1.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_2.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_3.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_4.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_5.jpg http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/4eat_6.jpg

I have 2 4eats out of cars lying round, if i got excited tomoro i could remove a rear housing and have a look to be sure. But its summer here and too hot to do anything during the day BTW the 4eat from diff is unusal in the the cw is offset and faces outwards, the pinion runs down the side of the casing. Ive had the front end apart..

Im about to embark on building a rear engine awd buggy, using EJ20 engine+ 4eat trans. With the auto there is a gear drive to the 'front' cw+p housed in the rear of the trans. if i exchange this for a chain, which i have heard of as already being done, then i will have reverseds the cw+p, and simply have to the use the appropriate front diff or flip a subaru diff upside down. Bonus is a fulltime rearwheel drive, with front drive engagement on the fly using manual control on the soleniod-c controlled clutchpack. 2. The EJ20 manual box has a hollow secondary shaft and the pinion to the front diff runs inside this, returning power from the centre diff. you could replace the centre diff with a custom gearset and have the cw+p rotate in the opposite direction to the rest of the trans, but reliability would be questionable since these 2 shafts are designed to have very little movement against each other. the inner rotates freely against the outer but im not sure if it has needle bearings, plain bearings or simply oil-grooved faces and how long this scenario would work for. Alternatively you could flip the cw over and have a custom pinion manufactured. that would be a better idea. 3. To make an EJ DOHC run backward you could just carefully retime the cams and rotate them backwards. Run an external oil pump and a custom water pump. Probbaly to difficult to make reliable. 4. EA81 engines, while old, have a geardrive to the camshaft. replace this with a timing chain and you have reverse crankshaft while all other engien parts still rotate normally. Question... in a lightweight on road car will the benefits of adding AWD outweight the extra weight penalty ? I know offroad that the 4wd is worthwhile even on relatively rear-weight-baised vehicles, when driving on soft terrain, but on road the extra traction to be gained is how much? at what loss to handling/braking performance ?

Ive got Kenda bearclaws, the open pattern without huge lugs is good on sand. Ive also seen quite an assortment of standard farm quad tires, dirt devils etc. Most buggy owners over here find second hand tyres to use on buggies. BTW, i have rear discs on mine since i used EA82-t running gear, and have adapted EA81 front calipers onto the rear for far better brakes. Also as a wee bonus i have rear handbrake attachments..... hullo individual rear wheel brakes

I just had a look at my tires out of interest and ive been abusing 2-ply tires Rated to only 430 pounds each. Ive never seen a tire failure yet in 3 years either, and that includes rock climbing and 2 occasions of impacts, one was hitting a tree that caused a rollover and destroyed the LHF suspension on one buggy, the other was an immovable rock at 30mph+ that bent the (commercial) rim into the knuckle, and bent the EA82 stay bar into a U. In both cases the tire stayed up and after beatin the rim back to shape with a sledgehammer, using the bead to keep it round, all was fine. In theory the tires are overloaded, so i will go back to ignoring the theory, run with the practical results, and urge others to try stuff out. Be brave!

A couple of people using EJ20s in offroaders have simply welded the clutchpack to make it drive fulltime. You can remove the front housing and throw the front diff away to save weight to if you want, its seperate to the 'main' auto box. Then refit the empty front housing.

You have to make / redrill them. There is a 12" rim in 4x130, its on the back of a japanese mazda bongo/ford econovan light commercial van that was fitted with dual rear tyres. Approx 1984-1990. The rims are 12"x4" wide and quite offset of course, being dual wheel. If you widen them by 4" you get a 12"x8" rim thats very sturdy and stops just shy of the caliper on subie. This is them widened: http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/pages/Drivers%20side.htm

Got an EJ22 Sohc sitting here sulking thats its not being used for anything. But its in Palmerston North. Complete, still in car, busted auto. Shipping to the SI is expensive :/

THe inlet manifold is very compact and flat, you wont be able to do much there. the throttle body faces rearward. On the bottom of the engine the sump looks large but the exhaust also hangs down on each side, you will be very hard pressed to gain anything there either. THe EJ20 quadcam turbo engine is that used in the Impreza WRX rally car, and its a powerful engine with aftermarket support. Its been around since 1989 and in various revisions to the present day. The only other engine worth considering is the 3l flat six non-turbo sub engine, i have no info on it. Its nice to drive, but not 'stimulating'. Weight of the ej20dohc may be 120kg, manual box maybe 60 kg.

w = 830 h = 600 l = 710 l2 = 430 fresh off the tape measure for the EJ20 Quadcam, all in mm. Width is from outside edges of cam covers, hight is from bottom of sump to top of intake manifold/throttle body. Length 1 is from front pulley to firewall, length2 is from front pulley to back of motor, not including flywheel. Back edge of throttle body is pretty much parallel to the back of the block. The reason i measured to the firewall is pretty much all of this space is required for the turbo(s) and I/C in a factory setup. The motor fills all of the space in this box quite nicely, with its very sqauare cam covers, sump+exhaust config and large inlet manifold.

The rear diff flange rotates clockwise viewed from the front of the car going forward. Youre in luck. OR you could mount a sprocket on the flange and use a chain drive, then locate youre motor wherever suits, and facing whichever way suits.

Fuel injected cars only inject as required, if the throttle is closed and it has a TPS switch, which is most since 1984, it will not inject fuel until the idle falls to the preset level. Anytime you are slowing down in gear you use no fuel, and putting the clutch in will require fuel to keep the engine running. And the least efficent revrange of an engine is idle. This does apparently save a noticable amount of fuel. You can test this, open the bonnet/hood and rev a multipoint injected engine while listening. You should be able to hear the ticking of the injectors speed up, and then stop completely when you close the throttle and the revs drop back to idle again.

EA81 is gear drive camshaft, even less to break. EA81 approx 100kg, 88hp EA82 approx 118kg, 105hp EJ22 approx 119kg, 135hp EJ20 DOHC would weigh a fraction more than a EJ22. Figures based on the internet, open to correction. http://www.aeronautics.ru/archive/reference/Piston_Engines/Japan.htm for weights + memory saying the EA82 is 18kg heavier and 18HP gruntier.

You may have to use a different clutch lever, a hydraulic clutch potentially has a shorter throw than a cable... or to out it another way: If you replace the cable with a hydraulic cylinder it wont be able to push the lever far enough. Most hydraulic systems use a shorter lever and maybe 3/4" movement to operate, cables seem to typically have a longer lever and twice the travel, i guess to reduce the actual load on the cable.

Completely different, the auto has permanent FWD and a clutch pack to engage the rear wheels on demand, no differential at all. To convert an auto to have a proper centre diff you need a late auto box, they did away with the clutch system and went to geared diffs.

Just a guess, but id be thinking: 1. Front housings, input shaft and primary reduction gearsfrom a d/r EA82 gearbox. 2. Shafts from an EA82 fulltime 4wd box, because these, having the centre diff, have the same general layout/hollow second shaft as a EJ20 box. 3. R&P from the EJ20 box, and use whichever centre diff and housing fits best. For onroad the EJ one with a viscous coupling, offroad the open/lockable EA82 fulltime one. I suspect the major problem in this might be matching up the centre diff or housings if they use different splines/bearing sizes etc. A 4.11 Viscous rear diff would bolt in nicely and youre done. Here in NZ there is a legacy which has a carbed EJ18 engine and a fulltime 4wd box with push-button lockable centre diff, just like the late EA82s. And a 4.44 final drive. The contents of one of these boxes *might* be able to be retrofitted to an EA82 box, as another option. Then the 4.44 viscous LSD from an Auto turbo one would be perfect to complete the package. Hell, just swap the whole EJ engine as well!

Agreed x 3. While discussing it, that thing in the middle of the crank is way to large to be a cam drive sprocket - given that the cam sprocket has to be twice the size again for the appropriate reduction, and the teeth look like a pickup for a crank position sensor. It has the snout and flywheel bolt pattern for a normal v8. WHy its like that i dont know either.