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Have you check the operation of the EGR valve and/or transducer? A slightly stuck open EGR valve, even due to carbon buildup on it's needle port might cause the hesitation/bogging that you describe.

The question I have is if there is more danger of damage on a lower octane fuel at higher RPMs than lower, due to the turbo spooling faster? To some degree, is this not true for normal aspirated engines as well (just normal high RPMs)? I would think if you needed to put lower octane in the tank that you should be relatively safe if you don't floor it...

Dealers are charging way too much for these sensors and labor to install - which is a fairly easy diy job (IMO). Also, there was some really good discussion and advice awhile back on this topic - probably in the archives now. Because of that topic thread I was able to save a sister who lives out on the east coast from $1200 repair on a 96' Legacy L wagon. The Indy shop that her family takes their cars to diagnosed a check engine light code to be bad cats, which they inform her the repair/replacement would be around $1200. With the information from the O2 discussion thread I told her to replace just the forward O2 sensor and have the shop reset the ECU. (New O2 sensors are included with new Cats anyways so there was nothing to lose). Code never came back, and the repair was around $150. Good price at $60. There are lot of e-store website that sell at or close to that, some with free shipping. http://www.oxygensensorwholesale.com/ http://oxygensensors.com/ Let the engine warm up a bit before attempting to remove the old sensor - should help with the initial "breaking" to unthread.

Yeah, mine too. I do the ATF once a summer, Seafoam a couple of time a year just as a precaution. Time and money is not that big an issue on doing these though.

I use Seafoam periodically on my vehicles and power equipment. On the Subies I usually have the vacuum on the throttle body suck up half the the can letting the engine finally choke and stall, let sit for 15 minutes and run the engine (produces a lot of white smoke by the way, so do it on windy day or you'll set your immediate neighborhood in a light fog :-p ). As for the oil in the crank case, I've turn to the old-school of, right before an oil change, draining a quart of oil and replacing with ATF III or IV transmission fluid, and running the car for a couple of hundred miles, then dump and then do the oil change. The ATF is cheap, and has high detergent qualities to do the same as Seaform in the crank case, pistions, and oil passages. It won't harm engine components. Some of the older mechanics I've talk to said it was pretty common years ago to fill the crank completely with ATF, run for awhile, and then dump and fill with regular oil. 190K on a 96 OBW, still runs well and gets good gas mileage.

You need to run high octane, 91 or greater. The issue is with detonation on high cylinder pressure/compression engines (Turbos) leading to piston damage at higher RPMs. See http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/octane.html Subaru *requires* higher octane in these vehicles. Use lower octane only in an emergency and/or when higher octane is not available. My area where I live there are a few stations that sell various octanes all at the same price (priced at what other stations are sell 87 for), and one is at least within a resonable driving distance to make it worth while. Check around. I use the Twin Cities Gas Price list for current pricing in this area: http://www.twincitiesgasprices.com/index.aspx?s=Y&fuel=A&tme_limit=4 Here's Gas Prices for Vermont (there may be others...) http://www.vermontgasprices.com/ Congrats and enjoy your new ride...!

I've always respected Alpine products, especially their electronics. I have less experience (none actually) with their speakers. Speakers are a very personal choice, what one likes in the sound quality another may not. This is especially true of home audio loudspeakers, and to a lesser extent, car audio. You should try to demo some speakers of different brands/budgets at your local brick and morter stores. I know you stated your not looking to pour a lot of money into any upgrades, so I expect you won't want to spend a lot of time comparing. And it's a fairly safe bet that anything you choose will probably sound better than what you have now from those stock speakers, especially given their age. Something to look out for, check the physical size and DEPTH of what your car's doors will except for mounting speakers. Speakers brands/models have different mounting and depth specs, and some will not fit your vehicle, I guarantee you. In some instances modifications can be used for deep mounting depths, but generally wont be as clean and simple as the original factory mounted speakers. Start by using the Crutchfield "What Fits My Car" web utility. It will only list those speakers that Crutchfield carries that will fit your car, but I believe it will provide the mounting depth and any other considerations you need to be aware of....at least it use to. You can request a free Crutchfield catalog which includes a nice section of information on mounting specs for most cars and trucks - it may be on their website too. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fhS0LNsLbgV/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?cm_re_o=lbpw_zy*czYlfBltB5*ctzfubflFYgzy There are other car audio websites that do this as well, so do some research to narrow down your final purchase. NOTE: not familiar with the 93 legacy (sedan or wagon), does it currently have coax speakers (tweeter/woofer mounted together as 1 unit, or a full range speaker) or do you have component speakers (tweeter and woofer are separate drivers, mounted in different locations)? You'll most likely want to replace the stock speaker configuration with the same type. Component replacements will be more expensive, but either should provide a big improvement.

The speaker drivers usually have the biggest impact on the final audio quality, followed by environmental acoustics and placement of the speakers in that environment, followed by the electronics. Start with replacing the stock drivers with something more upscale/refined. I have read a few reports that subaru owners replaced the stock drivers with Pioneer drivers at Crutchfield's recommendation, and made a big difference. IMO, Infinity's are good also, but I like the somewhat esoteric driver brands like Canton, Nakamichi, and ADS (although I'm not even sure Nakamichi and ADS even manufacture car audio anymore). The point is, there is a lot of choices for speaker upgrades at various budget levels that provide significant jump in the sound quality over the stock speakers. While power output and handling are important specs of electonics and speakers, remember to look at the speaker's efficiency/sensitivety numbers - higher dB numbers (92 to 94dB/meter) will provide higher volumes with less power like the stock units in Subarus. Most people listen at levels that require no more than 10 watts/channel anyway. If you want the high volume, dynamic punch, rock concert levels that can damage your hearing, then you'll need to look at replacing the head unit and/ or additional external amps.

I seem to remember years ago, and probably buried in the archives, a post that mentioned a German source (magazine?) qouted as say the number was around 8%. But who knows, we'll never know exactly. My impression in talking to the dealers and some independents that do HG work on Subarus is the number is much higher, like 1 out of every 5 or 4. When asked, most just shake there heads, smile, and reply 'we do alot of them'. Also, this board represents a very very small percentage of reported incidents. We can't account for those who never visit forums like these, or do just to find information on their problem and never share/add their voice. And many haven't had the problem yet, but may still experience it down the road (in time). The other thing to consider is what is a reasonable expectation for failures like this to occur - 100K miles, 150K, never.... 5% of total production units sold, 10%, 20% ???. Compared to the glowing accolades of the Subaru 2.2 engine, the 2.5 (both phase I and II) leave a lot to be desired on this subject. And Subaru's handling of the problem has been pathetic, not to mention the cost both the dealers and indys charge to do repairs really pulls the value down over the life of the vehicle. That said, I still enjoy my 96' OBW, now with a 190K (HG replaced at 138K).

No, I put the bikes up on the roof with a Thule rack/bike mounts. Having worked at a local bike shop years ago, some of the customers commented that they had installed a heavier class hitch to accommadate the 2" receiver models of bike racks - having a sense of security in strength of the larger tubing. I don't think it is necessarily a concern, but watch how far you extend that receiver if it's the 1-1/4" tubing, especially if you have a 4-6 bike capacity rack.

I installed a Hidden Hitch on my 05 OBW, easy enough though a second person would have saved sore muscles the next day from lifting/aligning/holding the hitch while on my back Look at http://www.etrailer.com They rate the ease of installation and time with the various hitch brands to the brand/model vehicle (Subaru's tend to be pretty easy) If I remember, there are only a couple of facilities that actually manufacture for the difference brand names, so quality/durability should be similar. However, some brand styles may change how the hitch looks on the vehicle. That's what was the final factor for the Hidden Hitch choice on mine.

Well, the driver-side bulb went out again on my 05, 2nd time in 6 months. Replaced this afternoon under warranty at local dealer. Note: The tech today mention that there was a recall that was sent out for second half 05 model year for this - anyone receive one? I had moved and if a recall did go out, it may have never been forwarded to the new address. And I was told that the first replacement bulb which just died, was an after-market bulb, not a genuin Subaru bulb. This bulb had been replaced by a dealer in Northern MN when I was vacationing. Apparently the Subaru bulbs have a blue colored base, and are either a sylvania or philips manufacture brand. Any bulbs without a blue color base are an after-market. For whatever difference it makes. An FYI.

Thats for that info. I'd be interested on what's involved with installing a self-leveling suspension on a Legacy/Outback, and it's cost?

On the plugs, having a dealer do it... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53280 My advice is to contact local dealers in your area, talk to a service writer, or better yet an actual mechanic or the service manager. Ask them to descibe (and justify their charges) to what is involved to perform some of these services. You'll get a better idea if you want to tackle it yourself. And if you do, share your experience with the rest of us...

If you're going to swap out the altenator yourself, I highly recommend giving Jason at 1stsubaruparts.com a call @ 866-528-5282 (Auburn Subaru in Washington State, parts department). Good pricing on rebuilts ~ $70 + shipping + $50 deposit until they receive they old core back. 12mo/12K miles warranty. Make sure you mention this website forum...

Looked at these once during my research, an interesting alternative (and a little spendy if new) .... http://www.tab-rv.com/

Just a quick link to etrailer recommendations for tranny coolers/2004 legacy: http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?model=Legacy&category=tran&year=2004&make=Subaru&t1=&h=e And for brake controllers (As stated before, I like my Tekonsha Prodigy note: you should be able to find it for $99 if you shop around): http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=E&Category_Code=BC

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=E&Category_Code=TRAN

On the tranny cooler, I'll defer to others on the board who have experience with the different brands. Do you the 2.5 4cyc or the 3.0 6cyc engine? How many family members? How much gear are you going to be carrying? GAWR is Gross Axle Weight Rating, the amount the axle of the trailer can hold (trailer weight plus weight of filled propane and water tanks, cargo, passengers, etc). I'm guessing the actual trailer is probably around 1800 to 2000lb dry weight? Still, If your traveling in the mountains, and you load the trailer to capacity with gear, 2500lb is a little high (and over subaru recommendations for your model year, which by the way would void any warranty you may have left if something should arise) And with added family members and cargo, you'll need to take your time on the mountain grades. If you do it, I'd highly recommend adding a brake controller to your vehicle (does the trailer have electric brakes, or maybe hydralic/surge brakes?)

I tow a small travel trailer (Casita 13', 2200lb) with a 05 OBW Turbo and it does just fine. I believe until 2005 all Legacy class wagons were 2000lbs limit in the US, 05/06 years have limits of 2700lb for the H4s and 3000lb for the H6. I've pulled some heavy loads with a 96 OBW without any problems - other than it takes longer to get up to speed, and the auto shifting up/down frequently in hilly terrain (just shift it into 3rd and drive a little slower). That said you want to calculate the total gross vehicle capcity, with family member and cargo weights to make sure your in the limits. I will also mention that when researching my travel trailer, someone on the Casita forum stated they towed a 16" footer (2400lb dry weight) with an older model legacy for thousands of miles without any problems. It was also stated that Australia has ratings of 3000lb for the same vehicle, suggesting the U.S. ratings are on the conservative side. (Can anyone here from down under confirm?). If you don't already have one installed, go with a good aftermarket class II hitch (Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch, Reese, U-haul, etc.) 3000/3500lb rating, over the Subaru brand accessorie add-on "dealer" options. Aftermarkets are beefier, higher limit on load and tongue weights, and cost less - my opinion. Wanna install it yourself? I recommend http://www.etrailer.com/ for everything you'll need. Get a tranny cooler installed if you don't already have one. Hilly terrain and hot climates will be harder on the tranny, especially when towing and fully loaded. Make sure to perform periodic tranny/coolant fluid flush/checks if you'll be towing. Make sure brakes/tires are in good condition. Allow longer stopping distances, etc. If you plan on doing a lot of traveling/towing, owning your own trailer, and the trailer is approaching 2000lb or more AND the trailer has electric brakes, consider installing a brake controller in the car such as the Tekonsha "Prodigy". Better braking control when fully loaded and takes some of the wear and tear of the main vehicle brakes. Occassional towing with a tent trailer - this is not needed though. These are very capable tow vehicles for occassional towing -summer vacations, bringing home garden/building materials from the local supply store, etc. This ability just adds to their usefullness/value as a good around wagon. My .02 worth, and then some....

Well, they do have to cover the cost of the multipart form the work order is written up on, the paper protector they put down on the driver side carpet, hazordous waste disposal, shop fees, etc.... Oh wait, those are *additional* charges on top of the actual work/parts charges One of the dealers here do vacuum out your car and run it through the car wash after service is completed :-p Dealers are notorious for overcharging - they probably figure people will pay for peace of mind for *authorized* and *certified* Subaru repairs.

I did a quick call to a local dealer today on the spark plug service. This dealer's service rate is $85/hr Labor only 2.5i normal aspirated engine 1.0 hrs = $85 2.5 Turbo 1.5 hrs = $127.50 3.0R H6 2.25 hrs = $191.25 Iridium Plugs are $25/ea (Nippon/Denso) Platinums plugs I did not ask about, but given work I had done two years ago I'mgoing to guess they're $15/ea now (NGK). I believe the 3.0R H6 recommendation is Iridiums. The service writer I spoke to did say there is more items to remove on the Turbo and the H6 which justifies the time. So, based on the above, your $328 is in the ballpark - and given the orientation and tight fit to get at the plugs.... You could buy the plugs elsewhere and learn to do the work yourself - depends on what your time and ambition is worth.

I have to look. But I don't remember seeing a coil pack on top of the engine like the normal aspirated engines. I dug out my 2005 brochure and it does say the 2.5 turbo and 3.0R 6 cyclinder engines used direct ignition. But I'm unsure of the configuration (is there some sort of coil assembly that sits on top of the spark plug itself?). I remember someone at a dealership saying something about this before I bought mine - I just haven't checked/worried about it until this discussion popped up. It's damn cramped in the engine bay, and it's too cold out today to be checking it out (-12 to 5 above with winds).

Actually, I need a comfirmation on this by the senior/experts on this forum. I make an assumption that the spark plug replacement on the new turbo and 3.0R engines is going to be a bigger pain and more costly due to the fact that this engine is using a "direct-ignition" system. My understanding of the term "direct-ignition" is that each spark plug has it's own coil sitting on top of it. 1) Is this configuration true on the XT/Turbo 2.5 AND 3.0R engines? (I don't think the newer normal aspirated 2.5's use direct ignition *yet*, do they? The 2005 brouchure simply says they have a distributorless ignition system) 2) Does/will this be a pain/more costly to work on when the time comes to replace the plugs? Any DIYers and Subie Heads please chime in. Is this why the $328 price tag MtnBikerChk was quoted?

60K is pretty standard with Platinum Plugs. Copper is typically 30K. Iridiums are 120K, and the newer Subaru's, especially the newer generation turbos are going to be very costly to replace spark plugs if done by the dealer.